portugieser yacht club chronograph review

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A Smaller IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Still Looms Large

IWC tweaked the size of its sporty Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph — and now it’s even better than before.

By Jason Heaton

1 original photo

When Boston native Florentine Ariosto Jones arrived in Switzerland in the mid-1860s to set up a watch company based on the modern industrial techniques of the American watch industry, he found little welcome in Geneva. So he headed east to Schaffhausen, where he found a small community of watchmakers who built timepieces in the German tradition — less artisanal flourish, more overbuilt sturdiness — and a river to power a factory. It seemed an ideal place to put down stakes; Jones settled there, built workshops on the bank of the Rhine and called his new company the International Watch Company.

Throughout the 20th century, IWC watches evolved from its first sturdy pocketwatches to the pilot’s watches worn by both German and British air force flyers to groundbreaking dive watches and antimagnetic scientists’ timepieces. The overriding theme of all of these watches was rugged and innovative practicality. In the 1930s, some Portuguese watch retailers approached IWC with a request to build a handful of oversized watches with accurate pocket watch movements. These large wristwatches went against the trend of the day, which favored smaller diameters, but swimming against the tide was not unusual for IWC and the Portuguese went on to become perhaps IWC’s most recognizable and beloved watch line.

Any deeper and it dips into dive watch territory, a place no skipper wants to be during an afternoon on the water.

At the SIHH watch fair in January, IWC debuted a refresh of its Portugieser ( auf Deutsch, natürlich ) family of watches. Cases returned to traditional design cues, with more graceful lines and some vintage-inspired dials. New movements and complications were added, like a beautiful annual calendar and a halo timepiece, the grand complication. One piece carried over from the previous generation is the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, a decidedly sporty watch with a name that is a nod to both the historic Portugieser family and a 1970s IWC called the Yacht Club.

IWC has always been known for its oversized watches and the last iteration of the Yacht Club Chrono was no exception at a burly 45mm. But the new version received a slight tweak and now comes in at a more svelte 43.5mm, which doesn’t seem like a big change, but on the wrist it is a far better-proportioned and more comfortable watch. The movement inside is IWC’s innovative in-house 89365 calibre, with a healthy 68-hour power reserve and a combined hour/minute counter that makes elapsed time read-off intuitive and quick. With its seafaring name, it stands to reason that IWC fits the watch with a rubber strap and a screw-in crown, giving it a respectable 60 meters of water resistance. Any deeper and it dips into dive watch territory, a place no skipper wants to be during an afternoon on the water.

Since 2011, IWC has been the official timekeeper of the round-the-world sailing Volvo Ocean Race, and the Yacht Club Chronograph, the watch given to the team that sets the record for the fastest 24-hour time during the race. It is a fitting watch for this epic race, in name and design, though, bashing through 40-foot waves rounding Cape Horn, we might be inclined to stow it in our kit bag, given its $12,000 sticker price.

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Gentleman Sailor: Testing the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

11 Jun 2022

Watchtime Usa

Contributing Writer

The new IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is a watch you can wear with confidence anywhere at the marina. A first glance shows that the third generation of the sportiest Portugieser model, our test watch, is designed to be both a nautical timepiece and a luxury accessory. The first impression of this IWC diving watch is confirmed upon closer inspection of its polished and satin-finish case, sunburst blue dial and brightly polished hands. Every component is flawlessly finished and worthy to be part of the supremely elegant Portugieser collection. 

For the first time in its 10-year history, this Portugieser Yacht Club boasts a steel bracelet rather than a rubber or leather strap — a sturdy but elegant IWC steel bracelet with brushed outer links and polished inner links. Shortening the bracelet involves simply pressing a button on the back of each row of sturdy links to remove it. Unlike simpler bracelet designs, using screws or hammering is not needed. 

Inside the safety folding clasp of this IWC  diving watch, there is also a quick extension piece that quickly and easily lengthens the bracelet by up to 7 mm.  Pressing the polished ‘IWC’ button on the outer bar of the clasp extends the bracelet in seven increments — without ever removing the watch from your wrist. Two safety buttons round out the sturdy and well-designed folding clasp. 

Detailed Modifications 

In addition to the bracelet, the dial has also been updated. The central chronograph hand is now steel-grey instead of red, and the date window has been shifted from the 3 o’clock position to the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Both changes enhance the elegance of the Yacht Club and were well received by our editorial staff. 

The elegant impression is diminished, however, by the enlargement of the already considerable stainless-steel case from 43.5 mm to 44.6 mm.  Our editorial staff admitted that no one among them had a wrist to match its substantial dimensions. 

Even so, the large, heavy watch is quite comfortable to wear thanks to ergonomically shaped sloping lugs and a supple steel bracelet. Unfortunately, the flexibility and adjustability of the IWC’s bracelet results in relatively large gaps  between the links, which can catch and pull hair. 

Proven Technology 

Components taken from earlier generations of the Yacht Club include the sturdy and powerful in-house movement, Calibre 89361, with many excellent features like a 68-hour power reserve; a traditional column-wheel control mechanism; the brand’s own exceptionally efficient Pellaton dual-pawl winding system; a free-sprung, temperature-resistant Glucydur balance wheel; and a flyback function for the direct restarting of the running chronograph. It can also show off beautiful decorative finishes, gold-enhanced engraving and a gold IWC medallion on the skeletonised oscillating rotor.

Another feature of the in-house movement of  IWC diving watch  is the combined 12-hour and 60-minute counter in the upper half of the dial, which is intended to show elapsed time intuitively, as on a clock. The combined counter is too small for everyday use, however, and its markings are too fine to read elapsed time to the minute quickly and easily. The chronograph seconds track around the dial is also extremely fine, and the central chronograph seconds hand is insufficiently long to fully reach it. In sum, it’s a mixed bag, with clearly legible time and date, and elapsed time that is much more difficult to read. 

Accurate Rate 

Our rate test revealed more about the Swiss movement. The electronic timing machine showed a negligibly small daily rate of +0.8 seconds, a maximum deviation between the positions of only 4 seconds and almost the same values when the chronograph is engaged. A two-week wearing test confirmed the small daily deviation with values between zero and +2 seconds — making our test watch a reliable partner for everyday use. 

In addition to the movement, another feature of the Yacht Club that hasn’t changed arouses mixed feelings — the pressure resistance of six bar that corresponds to water pressure at a depth of 60 metres. Although this may sound like a lot at first, the water resistance as it is tested under laboratory conditions is rather low for a nautical luxury sports watch linked to the world of sailing. Coming in contact with spray or waves means a watch should be resistant to at least 10 bar or 100 metres to ensure a certain degree of security in a variety of different environments. And even though this still isn’t a lot, it is the current standard for any water sports watch not explicitly designed for  diving . 

Advice for boat owners is simply this: It’s better to wear this watch in the evening, below deck, or to dinner at the marina, and either take it easy onboard during the day or rely on a sports watch that is clearly defined as such. The new  Portugieser  Yacht Club Chronograph is well equipped for normal everyday wear and light sports activities — and is the perfect gentleman sailor for social events on or below deck.

This story first appeared in WatchTime US, and was then carried in WatchTime India. To subscribe, click  here .

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Hands-on with the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703

Charlotte Harris

The stainless steel sports watch continues to reign supreme in the realm of horology and for IWC Schaffhausen, their Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph leads the genre in their portfolio. We’re very fortunate that for this week’s hands-on review, we’re getting up close and personal with one of the same; the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph found under reference IW390703. That’s the one with the two-toned steel and 18ct rose gold case, a crisp white dial and full metal bracelet.  

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club 

Original Vintage Highley Genuine Leather Watch Strap - Light Brown

Original vintage highley genuine leather watch strap - reef, original vintage highley genuine leather watch strap - reddish brown.

The story of the IWC Portugieser is one of my favourites. It all began during the 1930’s when two Portuguese businessmen approached IWC with a request for a large, highly accurate wristwatch with the precision of a marine chronometer. In response, IWC introduced the first Portugieser watch in 1939, it boasted a large case and a pocket watch movement with high levels of accuracy. It was a clean, timeless-looking watch with a simple dial, Arabic numerals and slim leaf-shaped hands – characteristics still well-known in today’s Portugieser collection. 

Fast forward to the 1960s, and the demand for yachting and sailing watches was growing so IWC decided to merge the elegance of the Portugieser with the functionality of a nautical timepiece, giving rise to the IWC Yacht Club collection. The Yacht Club models are ultimately the sporty brothers of the dressier Portugieser designs, offering increased water resistance and rubber strap options. 

2020 was a fairly big year for the Portugieser family as the collection was completely singled out by the Swiss watchmaker to be revamped and revitalised. Proportions were reduced ever so slightly, improvements were made to the glass and more importantly, almost the entirety of the collection now utilised in-house movements, further increasing the value propositions of these watches.  

These updates also included those in the Yacht Club line-up and one of the first models to be launched as part of the updated series was reference IW390703, the very model we’re getting hands-on with today. 

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703 

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronographs are the biggest models in the Portugieser family, which makes sense since these are designed to be robust, water resistant sports watches after all. That said, the dimensions do feel a little outdated and this was my initial reaction when I tried on the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703 for myself. 

I’m not someone who can pull off a watch larger than 42mm, but even so, the 44.6mm width of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph feels big even for a sports watch. These days, people seem to be opting for slightly smaller watches between the 36mm and 42mm mark. That said, this is a watch that packs a punch in its visuals and the sizing assists with that – especially its tall 53.5mm lug-to-lug size. 

While tall and wide, something that did surprise me about the case was the height. It appears slimmer than the 14.3mm dimensions marked on the watch’s specifications. The downturned, tear-drop shaped lugs help with this as does the finishing used on the stainless steel components. In this instance, the case sides and steel bracelet links are brushed while the top side of the lugs, 18ct rose gold bezel, crown guards, and rose gold bracelet links are polished. 

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703 watch lives up to its name as a nautical companion and offers a 100 metre water resistant rating assisted by a screw down crown with integrated pushers. On either side of the crown, two classically shaped piston chronograph pushers allow you to manipulate the complication on display. There’s also sapphire crystal glass on the top and back.  

The dial of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703 watch is really nicely executed. Despite displaying a whole lot of functionality, it still manages to keep things clean and tidy. The display is white and set with raised, 18ct rose gold Arabic numerals each paired with their own slightly luminescent index. To match, the leaf-shaped central hands for the hours and minutes are luminous and sit beside a slim chronograph seconds hand in 18ct rose gold. 

The display also presents a 60 minute track around the periphery which leads down to the Portugieser’s traditional printed railroad track in black. To match, black printing is used on the scales for the small seconds, joined by a bright red hand and integrated date window, and the clever 12 o’clock counter for both the chronograph’s minutes and hours. It is ingenious integrations like this that helps to keep the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph looking so tidy. 

Fuelling the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703 watch is the in-house 89361 automatic winding movement. This is where more of the updates for the Portugieser can be found. It comes with a four pawl, rather than a two pawl, Pellaton winding system and arrives with a 68 hour power reserve when fully wound. There are also 38 jewels, a frequency of 28,800vph and some very attractive Côtes de Genève decoration visible through the case back.  

Before today, I always thought of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club as sporty and nautical, as it should be with a name like that. So, when reference IW390703 arrived on, I was surprised at just how dressy it wore. We all know a strap can change the look of a watch dramatically, and that’s definitely the case here. The two-toned stainless steel and 18ct rose gold bracelet makes this watch feel flashy and luxurious. 

Don’t let that put you off though. The addition of the bracelet allows this model to be an almost perfect blend of some of IWC’s more aggressive sports watches and their more stereotypically sophisticated dress watches. Plus, if you do prefer a more casual, laid-back look, you could easily swap out this bracelet for one of rubber or textile. 

Conclusion  

There have been several occasions in my career where I have had to pinch myself to remind myself my job is real. Being sent an IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph to review, one in 18ct rose gold with full two-toned bracelet, was one of these occasions. I’ve not had much hands-on time with IWC before, so this was a real treat.  

It’s a beautiful watch with incredible finishing and a top-end movement to match. Reference IW390703 is definitely the dressiest model out of the current line-up, but it’s a wonderful example of sports elegance and I have no doubt it will suit those with a love of large, flashy watches. While it might not be one to recommend to newbies in the watch collecting world, or those with smaller wrists, it’s certainly one deserving of many collector’s bucket lists. 

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703 is part of the Swiss watchmaker’s permanent collection and is available for £17,800. 

Technical Specifications: 

• Brand: IWC Schaffhausen 
• Model: Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703  
• Price: £17,800 
• Material: Stainless steel & 18ct rose gold 
• Movement: In-house calibre 89361 automatic winding 
• Complications: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph seconds, minutes and hours 
• Dial: White with 18ct rose gold hands and numerals 
• Size: 44.6mm wide, 14.3mm tall 
• Strap: Two-toned bracelet 
• Water Resistance: 100 metres 
• Glass: Sapphire crystal  

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IWC Portuguese Chronograph Review

A timeless classic dress watch: iwc portuguese chronograph.

The IWC Portuguese Chronograph is a wrist watch that has lots of beauty and a rich history. This iconic & grail timepiece has been a major cornerstone for the IWC lineup and has maintained its popularity over the years. In our article, IWC Portuguese Chronograph Review, we’ll cover features/functions, movement, dial, specs, and how much the IWC Portuguese Chronograph costs / it’s value proposition.

Check out our in-depth New IWC Portugieser Chronograph review on Youtube.

IWC Portuguese Chronograph Movement

For years the IWC Portuguese Chronograph was fitted with a Valjoux 7750 movement until recently. The Valjoux 7750 provided a sturdy 42 hour power reserve, 30 minute chronograph, and a reliable time keeping abilities. Eventually the decision was made to upgrade IWC Portuguese Chronograph movement and bring it in-house. The new in-house calibre 69355 takes shape from a classic column wheel design that is engineered to the highest standards of IWC watchmaking. To celebrate the new IWC Portuguese Chronograph 40 movement, a see through case back was selected to showcase its beauty and design.

IWC Portuguese Dial

The IWC Portuguese Chronograph dial is instantly recognizable and has been for decades. The modern version still holds true to the original debut of the IWC Portuguese Chronograph. The simple yet elegant dial of the entire IWC Portuguese series has lead to it’s timeless luster. The IWC Portuguese dial provides a versatile design that can work in any formal attire and at the same time looking sharp in just a t-shirt.

IWC Portuguese Chronograph Features / Functions

Who says an elegant dress watch can’t have features and functions? Our IWC Portuguese Chronograph review has opened our eyes to how incredible this watch and the rest of the IWC Portuguese lineup is. Normally I wouldn’t consider a chronograph on a dress watch but leave it to IWC to make it work. Along with the 30 minute chronograph IWC has provided us with an in-house calibre, transparent case back, sapphire crystal, gold indices & hands, premium leather strap, and a screw down crown.

The New IWC Portuguese Chronograph 40

One question that I think most of us asked ourselves when it came to putting together a value proposition for the IWC Portuguese Chronograph review is, “Does the watch command the price being charged”. You can argue that once a company is charging north of $7,000 for a single watch, an in-house calibre should be involved. I’m personally one of those people myself and that is why I am so excited to learn that a watch that I think was close to perfect now checks all the boxes.

We’re happy to link to the launch video IWC released when they introduced their new IWC Portuguese collection. After watching this, we think that you’ll really gain a deeper appreciation for the collection and notice all the thought and collaboration that went into the IWC Portuguese collection.

How Much Does The IWC Portuguese Chronograph Cost

The IWC Portuguese Chronograph starts out at $8,715 for stainless steel models and can go up to $19,000 for precious metal models.

After learning how much does the IWC Portuguese Chronograph cost and if you’re wanting a better price, the previous versions that do not house the 69355 calibre movement can be picked up on at a discount new and used.

IWC Portuguese Chronograph Specs

Final Thoughts

To not give the IWC Portuguese Chronograph the respect it deserves would just be insane. There is a reason why this watch has stood the test of time and maintained its popularity over the years. The simple and yet elegant design of the IWC Portuguese Chronograph is what gives it its lore and its ranking among dress watch favorites. We’ve greatly enjoyed writing our IWC Portuguese Chronograph review. If you haven’t yet visited a local AD to see the watch in person, we suggest you take the time. Especially since now its upgraded movement has put it on par with competing watches in the $7,500-$10,000 price range.

• chronograph , dress watches , IWC

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Review IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown”

IWC Schaffhausen  and  Orlebar Brown have announced back in July their collaboration piece, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” . Due to the travelling and general restriction imposed by the infamous COVID19, I have seen the watch in the metal just at the end of August. Even if the summer is over, the “Orlebar Brown” Portugieser Yacht Club deserves to be presented – a lovely addition in the Portugieser Collection and a nice collaboration. 

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown”

I loved this watch from its digital launch. So I was very happy to finally get to see it at IWC Geneva Boutique during the Geneva Watch Days. The watch looks much better in the metal than the pictures reveal so if you are interested, I recommend to see it live.

Portugieser at heart, Portugieser in the look

The Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is one of those more special Portugieser – while keeping the known general aspects, some details are personalised by the Orlebar Brown collaboration.

The watch comes in a large 44.6 mm stainless steel case. Its dimensions are not obvious, the Edition “Orlebar Brown” wearing, as all the Portugieser large pieces, smaller than expected.

The case is designed to fit comfortable a large variety of wrist sizes. The caseband integrates the inward bent lugs. Even the brushing is extended on the lugs’ sides for a homogenous look. The rest of the surfaces are mirror polished. The strap integration is realised without any empty spaces.

The IWC Probus Scafusia decorated crown is surrounded by a raised polished crown protection. The protection bump also integrates the chrono pushers. The pushers have a wide but relatively thin topper. The entire appearance is nicely designed. The case details are quite handsome.

One of the eye-catching details of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is the strap. The blue rubber strap with textile inlay looks charming and offer very comfortable wear. It contributes to the smaller wear of the elegantly-proportioned case.

The buckle bears the sign of the IWC and Orlebar Brown collaboration deeply engraved in the metal. This buckle offers a secure sit on the wrist and it is a nice combination for the watch and strap.

A dial inspired by sea and sailing

The IWC Yacht Club “Orlebar Brown” has a gorgeous dial combining bleu-marine, white and red. With a vertical layout, the watch has a handsome face. The 12 o’clock areal presents the 60 minutes and 12 hours chronograph totaliser. The stepped down sub-dial presents two registers: the minutes counter on a circular pattern with white and red printing; the hours’ counter is central with printing on a flat surface. The elements are well delimited and offer good legibility. The chronograph’s seconds indication is realised with a central red hand that runs against the white inner bezel with blue printing.

The time display uses central hours and minutes elongated leaf hands with skeletonised centre and SuperLuminova fill. The hours’ indexes have double representation: applied metal Arabic numeral with the Portugieser known font and short baton indexes with SuperLuminova fill – another rather familiar detail. The minutes use a white printed railtrack that can also serve as an indication for the central chrono hands for an ease in legibility.

The lower side of the dial, at 6 o’clock, presents the running seconds. The subdial is subtly recessed and it is decorated with a circular pattern in the same granulation as the one met at the chrono’s minutes’ counter. The indexes and numerals are printed in blue. The date is printed in black on a white background and can be easily observed via a windowed aperture, as part of the small seconds’ dial.

As additional decoration, the dial of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” bears the name of the brand at 3 o’clock and the “Yacht Club” name at 9 o’clock. The Swiss-made marking is displayed at 6 o’clock as a break in the minute’s railtrack.

Calibre 89361 – a classic IWC movement

The Orlebar Brown Yacht Club is powered by the impressive Calibre 89361. This automatic movement powered by a 4Hz balance wheel offers an impressive set of features like the flyback chrono, hacking seconds, quick set date and a long power reserve of 68 hours due to its double barrel design and bi-directional winding.

Calibre 89361 is used in several IWC families for chronographs: Ingenieur, Da Vinci, Aquatimer , Pilot and, of course, Portugieser . The movement uses a double-clutch design with a vertical clutch for coupling and a column wheel for actuation. The combination of the two decreases the wear of the gear train with an increase of reliability over time. The system also helps the overall chronometry by decreasing the loss of amplitude by the chrono’s activation. Looking at the winding mechanism, I was wondering if this is the four pawl system patented by Jean-Francois Mojon and Norberto Perucchi fifteen years ago?

The movement does not particularly excel on the finishes side. Mostly industrial but fine and well-executed, the adornment of the Calibre 89361 deserves a look through the exhibition case back.

It has the looks, it has the brains

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is a beautiful watch with a pleasant layout and nice colour scheme. The look can be overshadowed only by the technically impressive in-house movement, the Calibre 89361. The back offers a compelling view too.

Definitively, it has a sporty appearance. Regardless if worn as a daily driver, at the beach or by sailing, the watch offers comfortable wear even for smaller wrists.  I have an 18cm/7inch wrist and I usually tend to stop at a diametre of 41-42mm. But I didn’t realise how big the watch actually is. So a strong point for a small wrist to give it a chance.

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” Technical Specifications and Price

REF. IW390704

• Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds
• Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
• Flyback function
• Date display
• Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
• Small hacking seconds
• 89361 Calibre
• IWC-manufactured movement
• Automatic, self-winding
• 68 hours Power Reserve
• Frequency 28800.0 vph (4.0 Hz)
• 299 Components
• Côtes de Genève, perlage
• Stainless steel case
• Diameter 44.6  mm
• Height 14.3  mm
• Screw-in crown
• See-through sapphire glass back
• Water-resistance 6 bar
• Blue dial with luminescence
• Blue rubber strap with textile inlay
• Strap width 22 mm
• 11.800 € , Price includes taxes and shipping.

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Watch Test: IWC Portuguese Yacht Club

Like other Portuguese models, the Yacht Club has a big case (45.5 millimeters), Arabic numerals and a railroad-track-style minutes ring. Unlike other Portuguese watches, it has a gaggle of sailing-themed features: push-pieces shaped like bollards, a seafaring red-and-white color scheme and luminous hands and markers that can be read even in a thick, offshore fog. It immediately became the sportiest Portuguese model. The case deserves much praise for its fine craftsmanship; its unusual bezel , which widens in a smooth slope from bottom to top; and its beautifully contrasting, polished and satin-finished surfaces.

The dial is very large, more than 40 millimeters wide, and is quite attractive and easy to read. Because it is black, it provides a high-contrast background for the silver-colored hour and minute hands. For greater legibility in the dark, 12 o’clock is marked with double markers. The only fly in the ointment, a tiny one, is the date display, which sits in an awkward position abutting the numeral “3.” Furthermore, it switches from one day to the next very sluggishly, beginning the shift an hour before midnight. The Yacht Club is the first Portuguese model to be fitted with Caliber 89360, which IWC developed in-house and launched in 2007. This caliber offers one very appealing benefit: its elapsed-hours and elapsed-minutes counters are combined in a single subdial in the upper half of the dial. They can be read easily at a glance, as if you’re reading the time in a second time zone. This feature is especially helpful in measuring long periods of time.

Click here to download the full review of the IWC Portuguese Yacht Club, including specs, scores, and price.

This article was originally posted on June 19, 2012, and has been updated.

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Introducing The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition 'Orlebar Brown'

Just in time for summer, a new sport watch and resort wear collection..

This year at IWC has been all about the refreshed Portugieser line of nautically inspired timepieces, which harken back to an important wristwatch made by IWC that used a large and accurate pocket watch movement. Today, we have a special edition of the sporty Portugieser Yacht Club to mark a new partnership between IWC and the British swimwear brand Orlebar Brown. 

Orlebar Brown was founded after its Creative Director, Adam Brown, detected a disconnect between what typically well-dressed guys wear socializing and what they tend to put on when they go to the pool. While changing from a pair of swim trunks into something more appropriate for lunch, a light went on, and Brown realized he wanted a pair that would look great away from the pool too. When you look at a pair of Orlebar Brown swim trunks, you can see how traditional tailoring influences their construction. Side tab adjusters and a four-part shaped waistband keep things refined, fresh, and stylish when heading from an afternoon at the pool out to drinks with friends. Though the company's swimwear collections are regularly refreshed on a seasonal basis, each suit comes with a five-year guarantee. They're swim trunks made to look great and to last.

Earlier this year, IWC dropped three main line models as part of its 2020 focus on the Portugieser line. Aesthetically, the new special edition version bridges the designs of the blue dial and silver-plated dial variations that we covered back in April. It does this while dispensing with the stainless steel bracelet in favor of the rubber strap with co-branded buckle seen above.

A white toweling blazer with blue piping from the new Orlebar Brown x IWC capsule collection.

The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown" is being launched right in time for summer, alongside Orlebar Brown's new nine-piece resort wear capsule collection, designed with IWC. With its nautically influenced design, rubber strap, and custom co-branded buckle (which is fashioned after an Orlebar Brown side tab adjuster), this feels like a fun twist on a perennial favorite from the IWC Portugieser collection.

One of my favorite things about IWC's cal. 89361 flyback chronograph movement is its impact on the display. It allows for a clean and symmetrical two sub-dial layout while integrating chronograph hours and minutes into the upper sub-dial and reserving the lower one for a small hacking seconds. Usually, a chronograph would need three subdials to convey this much information. 

The Portugieser is, of course, a watch whose formidable size is one of its most distinctive design elements, and this watch is certainly a Portugieser in that regard. At nearly 45mm in diameter, it could be a bit overwhelming to those who only wear watches on the smaller end of the spectrum. Still, it has a very classic design, and the fact that it's a sporty chronograph on a rubber strap makes me think that this could be a pretty killer watch for these current warmer months.

Brand: IWC Model: Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown" Reference Number: IW390704

Diameter: 44.6mm Thickness: 14.4mm Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Blue and silver-plated dial Indexes: Rhodium-plated appliques Lume: Yes Water Resistance: 6 bar Strap/Bracelet: Blue rubber strap with textile inlay

Caliber: IWC 89361 Functions: Hours, minutes, small hacking seconds, flyback chronograph with chronograph hours and minutes in sub-dial at 12 o'clock, date Power Reserve: 68 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph Jewels: 38

Price: $12,500 Availability: July 2020

For more on the watch, click here , and for more on the capsule collection, click here.

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The Portugieser is one of the oldest and best-known watches from IWC. No other watch family incorporates so many of the technical tours de force of haute horlogerie.

Introducing: The Portugieser Eternal Calendar

A TRIBUTE TO ETERNITY

Portugieser Reference 325

At the end of the 1930s, IWC built at the request of two Portuguese merchants, a large wristwatch with the precision of a pocket watch. For this purpose, they used the pocket watch movement calibers 74 and 98. The noticeably large and striking wristwatch first was launched in 1939.

Portugieser Anniversary Wristwatch

On the occasion of the company’s 125th anniversary, IWC decided to bring the special large Portugieser watch back to life with a new limited edition. A special feature was the view of the movement through a transparent sapphire-glass back. The calibre 9828 in the modern Portugieser was based on the original pocket watch calibre 98.

Portugieser Minute Repeater

Shortly after the market launch of the Portugieser anniversary watch in 1993, a movement fulfilling the most exacting demands of high-end watchmaking began to appear in the collection: the Portugieser Minute Repeater (Reference 5240).

Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante

A watch “that had never existed before, even back then” was the slogan at the unveiling of the Portugieser Chrono-Rattrapante (Reference 3712). It was an apt statement because it was the first time a Portugieser and a chronograph had been combined in the same case, and the result needed to be something extraordinary.

Portugieser Automatic 2000

To mark the start of the new millennium, IWC decided to write a new chapter in the history of Schaffhausen in the year 2000: the Portugieser Automatic 2000 (Reference 5000), with a completely newly designed movement. The 5000 calibre contained a power reserve of 7 days and the Pellaton winding system.

Portugieser Perpetual Calendar

In 2003 IWC launched the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar (Reference 5021). In a unique and very special way, this timepiece embodied all the watchmaking expertise of the Schaffhausen company. IWC combined its in-house 5000 caliber with the perpetual calendar module developed by Kurt Klaus.

Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère

With its iconic design, the Portugieser family had included almost every imaginable classic complication in the history of watchmaking. In 2004 the most mythical of them all, the tourbillon, was introduced. The Tourbillion Mystere (Reference 5042) was based on an IWC in-house construction from the 1990s.

Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Reference 3902) is the sportiest timepiece in a watch family steeped in tradition. Originally, the Yacht Club was first launched in 1967 and became one of the most successful IWC watches of the 20th century. IWC decided to integrate the “new” generation of Yacht Club models into the Portugieser family.

Portugieser Sidérale Scafusia

In 2011, IWC bestowed upon the watchmaking world a masterpiece of haute horlogerie. The Portugieser Sidérale Scafusia (Reference 5041) represents 10 years of solid development work by a team of engineers, watchmakers and scientists. It is the most exclusive and complicated mechanical watch ever made by IWC.

Portugieser Annual Calendar

In 2015, IWC celebrated the 75th year of the Portugieser. The newly developed annual calendar complication displayed the month, date and day in three separate windows on the dial and required a manual adjustment just once every year.

Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “150 Years”

To mark its 150 year anniversary, IWC Schaffhausen presented the Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “150 Years”. Limited to just 15 pieces, this stunning platinum timepiece features a white dial with a lacquer finish and blue hands. The manufacture calibre 94805 combines for the first time a constant force tourbillon with a single moon phase display that needs to be corrected by just one day every 577.5 years.

Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide

The Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide represents a technical highlight. For the first time, in this model, IWC presents its newly developed tide indicator. A totalizer at “6 o’clock” shows the times of high and low tide. Positioned at “12 o’clock” is an IWC speciality, the double moon phase display. It has been expanded to show the spring and neap tides and thus provides more information about the strength of current tides.

Portugieser Eternal Calendar

IWC’s first secular perpetual calendar automatically accounts for the Gregorian calendar’s complex leap year exceptions by skipping three leap years over a 400-year period. In addition, its moon phase display is so precise that it will—theoretically—only deviate by one day after 45 million years.

DESIGN HIGHLIGHTS

The Portugieser – a style icon

The iconic design of Portugieser watches, with their imposing size, simple Arabic numerals, slim feuille hands and railway-track-style chapter ring, originated in the 1930s, when it was well ahead of its time. Today, the original, clearly organized dial with its simple design remains an unrivalled style icon.

Featured Portugieser Watches

With a design that is as crisp as it is timelessly modern, the IWC Portugieser has turned into an icon of watchmaking.

PORTUGIESER ETERNAL CALENDAR

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CHF 19'000

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Review: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph – The perfect summers’ watch?

Ah, it summer-time! The sun is shining, birds are singing and you need a summer wrist-companion. Comfort, sportiness and perhaps something trendy? If one were to screen through the IWC collection, chances are they’d pick the Ingenuier or the versatile Pilot. But would you consider a Portugieser. Here, we bring you a in-depth look at one such example: the 2018 IWC Yacht Club Chronograph. It checks all those “summer-ready” boxes (if there is one), on paper at least . But, how does it stack up?

Review: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

OK, so it is summer all year long in Singapore…all the more the enjoy. IWC announced the new Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph in July 12, 2018. Here is our hands-on review.

The Case, Dial and Hands

Despite several key differences in stylistic design cues, the Yacht Club Chronograph is still instantly instantly recognisable as being part of the Portugieser collection.

The 43.5mm stainless steel case shares several design traits with the classic Portugieser chronograph. Despite its increased size, the watch still wore comfortably on the author’s wrist.

The watch features a round stainless steel case which measures 43.5mm in diameter. Granted, a rather generous proportion, but one that is not new to the brand. It shares several design traits with the classic chronograph: the case shape, pushers and crown looks identical. However, where the Portugieser family is best suited for dressing up, the Yacht-Club is all for enjoying the water; oceans, boating (and desk diving!). Its appearance is rather sporty, with a maxi-sized case, thick bezel and crown guards. Despite its size, the watch wore really well: it sat comfortably on the author’s (smaller than average) 5.5″ wrist with good all-round weight distribution. Furthermore, the 14.2mm case thickness ensured a pleasant wrist presence without being overbearing.

A healthy blend of polished and brushed surfaces ensures a sporty-elegance flair: flashy without being brash. Also seen here is its case thickness of 14.2mm: a comfortable size while providing sufficient wrist presence.

Finishing is a visual and physical treat: the case has a healthy blend of meticulously polished and brushed surfaces, ensuring a bright and seductive appearance. A sporty-elegance flair perhaps; flashy without being brash. Finally, the corners and sides features smooth, sensual curves with no ‘rough edges’.

The sunburst blue dial is rather handsome, sporting contrasting white sub dials. We enjoyed its overall cleanliness and sleek appearance.

The dial is the highlight of this watch, sporting a striking sunburst blue with contrasting white sub dials. The top and bottom counters records hours/minutes-elapsed and running-seconds respectively. They don a circular pattern and sits slightly recessed into the dial for better depth. Its printing is somewhat busy with two scales, but we had no issues with readability. In fact, the entire dial features a rather unadulterated and sleek appearance: no ‘handy reminders’ of specifications or certifications – a detail that is greatly appreciated. Additionally, we enjoyed the subtle, charming touches such as the distinct red chronograph seconds hand. Overall a well balanced dial with effective use of negative space.

A rather striking dial, but not one without minor complaints. One of them is the truncated number ’11’. Another is the upside-down markings on the sub dials.

To top it off, the sporty mien is accompanied by polished  appliqué  arabic numerals – one that adds an elegant flair to the watch. Extending outwards are 13 hour-markers. And complimenting them is a set of  feuille  (leaf)-shaped minute and hour hands. Both the hour-markers and hands have been filled with SuperLuminova which ensures good legibility in all situations.

There were several minor complaints however. Some may prefer that the top sub dial be made slightly smaller to avoid cutting off the ’11’ numeral (think Portugieser Chronograph Classic). Another is the ‘flipped’ markings on the counters. That said, these minor niggles do not detract much from its overall looks.

Turning the watch over, we find a see-through sapphire case back. The watch comes on an accompanying blue rubber strap with metal keeper. One interesting note about the rubber is the motif underneath which prevents slippage while on the wrist.

The Movement: IWC 89361

Inside the Yacht-Club houses the IWC 89361 calibre – an in-house manufactured chronograph movement. It boasts an impressive 60-hours power reserve and beats at 28,800 bph (4Hz). Furthermore, this self-winding movement features a flyback function and date complication. Finishing is well executed entirely with haute horology decorations such as Côtes  de  Genève  (Geneva Stripes) and perlage (circular graining).

The in-house IWC 89361 calibre is a flyback chronograph boasting a 60-hours power reserve. Finishing appears to be done to a high engineering standard. Nonetheless, an obvious choice for movement.

The chronograph pushers feels pronounced upon activation and winding was smooth with good tactile feedback. This movement can be found across IWC’s portfolio of chronograph watches as well as other iterations of the Yacht-Club, thus its choice appears to be a no-brainer.

Competitive Landscape

The IWC Portugieser Yacht-Club Chronograph “Summer Edition” has a recommended retail price of S$17,900. It’s priced appropriately, in-line with other sporty and versatile chronographs . If one is looking for a summers’ timepiece, the choices are endless. Here, we bring you a non-exhaustive list of timepieces which are as competent of transitioning seamlessly from ocean jaunts to cocktail parties.

Summer-ready: the Yacht Club has an appearance that is sporty yet trendy.

We kick things off with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph . When it comes to luxury sports watches, the Royal Oak is the undisputed industry icon. The iconic octagonal case was conceived by none other than Gerald Genta himself. The current iteration is fitted on a rubber straps and are available in a slew of funky colour variations. Its not just all looks without brawn, as the watch is rated to a depth of 300 meters. Highly recognisable (and desirable) on land yet able to perform out at sea – a perfect summer’s timepiece indeed. The ROO Diver Chronograph is priced at S$31,900 .

Rolex Yachtmaster II ( ref. 116680 ) : a watch considered by many Rolex enthusiasts to be the most unapologetic (some call sacrilege) of the brands’ conservative stable. Ostentatious is an understatement as its 44mm case with shiny  ceramic bezel and polished center links is the opposite of subtility. Yet, it remains as a technical masterpiece, housing one of Rolex’s most complicated calibres: a flyback regatta timer with memory. Admittedly not very useful for the ordinary folks, but as a sporty watch, it is rather capable with good legibility and wrist presence. Also makes for an excellent summer statement-timepiece. (Fun fact: It is the largest commercially-available Rolex watch alongside the Deepsea .) The Yachtmaster II has a recommended retail price of S$25,120 .

The Rolex Daytona ( ref. 116500LN )  – perhaps the most ‘”exclusive” watch on this list. It’s sized at 40mm and powered by the calibre 4130 in-house column wheel movement. An excellent choice all year round. The Daytona is priced at S$16,660 .

Another option is the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph 5968A – the 179-years old maison’s sportiest line. Launched during Basel 2018, it’s the first Aquanaut to sport an in-house chronograph movement. Its case is sized at a contemporary 42.2mm and has a thickness of 11.9mm. The watch is delivered with two abrasion and UV-resistant composite straps: a black which is standard-issue and a rather un-Patek bright orange. Still, its price is  very -Patek at SGD57,700 .

A mid-range piece is the Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue. It’s a rather cool-looking chronograph, with a refreshing white dial and striking blue-orange accents. Powering it is a Tudor-modified ETA 2892 movement which delivers a 42-hours power reserve. The Heritage Chrono Blue retails for S$5,880 .

For the budget conscious, we propose the Seiko Prospex Turtle SRPC91 “Save The Ocean”. Robust build, in-house movement and a handsome blue waves motif dial. It offers an incredible quality-to-price ratio, if there is one. Can you go ever wrong? The Turtle retails at  €450 .

There’s much to like about the 2018 IWC Portugieser Yacht-Club. The contrasting blue dial and white sub dials is visually clean and appealing. Its design draws heavy inspiration from the classic Portugieser Chronograph and is rather aesthetically pleasing. The chronograph and date complications serves a functional purpose. Finally, the accompanied blue rubber strap is comfortable and completes the “summer package” look.

An area to nitpick would be the finer attention-to-details. In addition, its upsized case might not sit well with some, though as mentioned, it is comfortable on the author’s wrist. Nonetheless, the Yacht-Club is a very handsome piece which (almost) manages to be the perfect summers’ wrist-companion.

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Good review. I like the look of this watch, but my experience with IWC after sales (not only in Singapore) has been quite disappointing.

I don’t think a “summer” watch should be anything less than 10ATM water resistant. It is 2018 and it should easily be able to withstand a dip in a pool, lake or ocean

Could have added a changeable strap to it.. could be a rubber one but a little more contrast / jazzy types…

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IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” (Live Pics & Price)

Sailing into stylish waters with british leisurewear brand orlebar brown..

Partnerships with designers are a strong trend in the watchmaking industry today, a move designed to give watches a fresher, more contemporary face and appeal to fashion-conscious men. IWC partners with British apparel brand Orlebar Brown for a special edition of the Portugieser Yacht Chronograph decked out in smart navy blue with red and white accents and a new strap. Let’s have a look at this new reference IW390704.

Preliminary note: the watch photographed here is a prototype. The final version is worn on a slightly different strap, which has curved ends between the lugs, for better integration with the case.

Orlebar Brown

Orlebar Brown, the British men’s clothing brand founded in 2007, started life selling stylish swim shorts and now specialises in resort and leisurewear wear. The difference between Orlebar Brown swim shorts and regular swim shorts are that Orlebar Brown shorts are crafted like traditional men’s trousers and come with a zipper and adjustable side fasteners. Now an international success story, the brand has expanded its lines to offer beach, sport, resort and coast wear. The nautical spirit of the Portugieser is notched up in this special edition, at home on the decking of a sailing yacht or the decking of a swimming pool. In addition to this watch collaboration, IWC and Orlebar Brown have also designed a “Capsule Collection” of resort wear to celebrate the partnership.

Portugieser Yacht Chronograph

Earlier this year, IWC launched its third-generation Portugieser Yacht Chronograph with a larger case size, the relocation of the date window, design upgrades on the dial and a new metal bracelet. The IWC x Orlebar Brown special edition is based on the recently revamped Ref. 3907 . The Yacht Club line of chronographs was introduced into the Portugieser family in 2010 and are fitted with a sophisticated flyback chronograph movement developed from head to toe by the brand in Schaffhausen. What distinguishes this chronograph from many others on the market is its display; instead of two individual counters for elapsed hours and minutes, these are placed in a single sub-dial at 12 o’clock while the second sub-dial at 6 o’clock is for the running seconds.

The Yacht Club line is the sportiest line in the Portugieser family and was designed to capture the nautical spirit of the original 1939 Portugieser – a downsized nautical chronometer.  The Yacht Club offers 60m water-resistance and has pushers shaped like bollards but displays the hallmark traits of the Portugieser family with its large round case, the railroad minutes track, the elegant leaf-shaped hands and the applied Arabic numerals.

Orlebar Brown touches

The stainless steel case has a diameter of 44.6mm and a height of 14.1mm with a rounded bezel and a polished finish throughout. Although there have been Portugieser Yacht Chronographs with blue dials in the past, this model has a dark navy blue dial with contrasting colours for the two vertically aligned counters. The top counter, with the combined 12-hour and 60-minute elapsed times of the chronograph, features the same dark blue colour as the dial and the number 12 and the area between 60 and 10 are picked out in bright red.

The small seconds counter, which also houses the date window, is white with blue markings. The flange with the quarter-second scale for shorter time measurements is white with blue markings and indicated by the red central chronograph seconds hand. The characteristic railway minute track of the Portugieser family is white and printed against the blue dial with luminescent hour markers followed by the applied Arabic numerals. The leaf-shaped hands are rhodium-plated and also treated with luminescence. The overall effect is one of a crisp, smart dial with vivid contrasts.

Another distinguishing feature of the collaboration with British designed Orlebar Brown is the new navy blue rubber strap with a textile inlay on the surface that is woven to look like rope. The strap is secured by a co-branded side-fastener that resemble what’s found on the brand’s swimsuits.

In-house movement

The movement below deck is IWC’s 89361 automatic manufacture calibre with a robust 68-hour power reserve, a workhorse movement for IWC that has powered many chronographs in the last decade. The movement can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback with its openworked rotor and the steel frame is engraved with the name of the watch and the words Edition Orlebar Brown.

Price and availability

The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition Orlebar Brown IW390704 will be available from 15 July 2020 in IWC boutiques, authorised retailers and from the brand’s e-boutique here . The retail price is EUR 12,200 or USD 12,500 .

For more information, please visit iwc.com  as well as the Orlebar Brown capsule collection here .

Technical specifications – IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown"

5 responses.

Aesthetically it looks great, but why is it so big?? Make it 42mm at most and you have a winner.

Make it 40mm and it’ll be my grail

sehr schöne Uhr! Diese IWC gefällt mir sehr : )

Yeah it looks great

Just purchased one, I am 6.1 – 210lbs – Yea, the size is right…

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