sailboat mast gooseneck

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Aluminum Sailboat Mast & Boom Extrusion

returning to port after my gooseneck busted

busted goose neck no longer holding a clevis pin

stainless bolts oxidized to the aluminum mast, not budging

after heating with a torch, I could break off pieces of cast aluminum

my new gooseneck holding the boom to the mast

2 comments:

Captain Curran, The problem I have is the stainless steel car that attaches to the mainsail clew is stuck inside the aluminum boom groove. I have tried striking it with a mini sledge and now I am a little afraid it will break the car in half instead of loosening it if I hit it with all of my force. I am tempted to try heating it with a propane torch to loosen it up. Do you think this will work without causing weakness or sag to the aluminum boom. Thanks. [email protected] S/V Zig Zag

I'm a fan of the propane torch I would just go easy A few seconds of heat in the right spots Then start tapping with a mallet A good pre soak with solvents should help But only if you can get the solvents into the contact points Good luck and keep me posted!

Allen Brothers Mirror Gooseneck - Round Boom

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Categories CHANDLERY Mast/ Boom Fittings Gooseneck/Boom Brackets, Outhauls & Sliders

Gooseneck/boom brackets, outhauls & sliders.

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How To Raise the Boom on a Sailboat in 5 Easy Steps

There are a plethora of reasons why you might want to raise the boom on your sailboat, ranging from creating more space to performance adjustments. This article will show you how to do that in five simple steps.

So how to raise the boom on your sailboat?

Drill new holes for repositioning the gooseneck
Fill the old holes so that the mast strength is not compromised
Shorten the sail
Make sure the boom doesn't interfere with the backstay
Check the new position's functionality and compatibility with all the other components

Now let's go over these steps in more detail. We will also have a look at some of the reasons for raising a boom on a sailboat. Who knows, maybe we'll inspire you and tomorrow you'll be on your boat with a toolbox by your side.

But I feel it might be quite the opposite - as you'll soon find out, raising a boom is no joke. However, there may be a good alternative.

Well, not so fast. Say your sailboat doesn't have a boom vang because it is more of a leisure cruiser. But you have adventurous blood coursing through your veins, and you want to add that boom vang to your vessel. So you do your research, you do all the measurements, and oops, the boom is too low for a standard vang.

This specifically is why quite a number of 30-foot C&C owners were looking precisely into this topic.

Or say you want to add a bimini to the cockpit for that extra shade and comfort, but the low placed boom doesn't allow for this.

Or what if safety is your concern? Especially on smaller sailboats, the boom can be placed so low and extend so far into the cockpit that chances of somebody's head getting injured when the boom swings are high.

All in all, there are reasons to look into it. As is the case with any other vehicle, although they do come from the store ready to rock'n'roll, there are often ways to tinker your way to improvement in case the product doesn't fit your needs. The car tuning scene could write a book on the topic.

Firstly, let's talk about how to go about raising the boom. Though the oftentimes confusing sailing terminology glossary is a thick book already, we have to introduce yet another new term - gooseneck. It is a bunch of parts that connect the boom to the mast.

1. Drilling New Holes

The gooseneck is attached to the mast with rivets or screws, so it is possible to change its position by simply drilling new holes in the desired height. Do this carefully though. There are incredible forces exerted on a mast when under sail and you don't want to compromise its rigidity.

Easy, right? This main part is not that tricky, and anyone with enough prudence and diligence can do it without the need to even use any specialized equipment. Unfortunately, you're not even halfway done.

2. Filling The Old Holes

Let's get back to the rigidity issue. You have drilled your holes, maybe even repositioned the mast already. Now there are a few extra holes in your mast, which is not good news for its strength. You have to fill them to make sure the mast can still take the load, which is easily done with short rivets or something of that sort.

So again, nothing technically difficult with a bit of love and care. But it is a step you don't want to overlook as if you do, your mast will be more likely to snap in half when the wind hits the sails.

3. Shortening The Sail

Now come the tricky steps. The precise position of a boom is not a standalone matter, rather it is influenced by and influences quite a few other aspects and parts on your boat.

One of these is your sail size. As you might have expected, raising a boom changes the sail area of your mainsail, so you need to resize it. Regardless of if your sail twists inside of your boom, mast or simply rests on the boom, this needs to be done.

Unfortunately, unlike the previous steps, this is not a DIY project for most. You can't simply cut off the extra part, because, for instance, the seams have a specific curvature. If you ignore this, your performance will decrease significantly as you will mess up the sail shape. This won't be that noticeable when you go downwind, but when sailing upwind you will notice the difference. Which means you might need to leave this in the hands of a professional sailmaker.

Also, because you will most likely be cutting the sail at the bottom, you will need to redo the two corner reinforcements too. And since the prudent thing to do here would be cutting the sail from the bottom as well as the back so that the shape is maintained, in case you have battens in your sail, you will need to adjust them and the pockets they sit in.

It sounds like a lot, I know. This is why you might conclude that getting an entirely new mainsail might be less of a hassle and cheaper than redoing your old one, especially if it has been used for a while already.

4. Making Sure The Boom Doesn't Interfere With The Backstay

Another of the parts that might be influenced by your tinkering is the backstay . Since it goes from the back of the boat to the top of the mast, if you put your boom up, its backside might collide with it.

Repositioning the backstay is unrealistic, and so you might find yourself having to shorten the boom too. I know we are getting quite far from the original simple task of just raising the boom, but rigging parts are in a delicate unison and tweaking one tends to require you to tweak the others too.

Gosh, I sure hope you read this whole thing before drilling the holes.

5. Checking The New Position's Functionality And Compatibility

I don't mean to discourage you from raising your booms, but I have yet another bit of news that might make some of you turn back on this project.

As expressed above, many things on a sailboat are intertwined. So even if you successfully raised the boom, reshaped your sail, or ordered a new one and made sure the boom doesn't collide with the backstay, you still gotta check if everything else works as it should.

One such thing might be the boom vang - as it is directly attached to the boom, you might need to swap it for a different sized one and also adjust the line length.

The same goes for all the other lines - if the boom is now set higher, better make sure you have enough ropes to work with. This probably won't be an issue since the change is not that drastic but better safe than sorry.

All in all, make sure you test the rigging properly, simulate various potential situations so that you are sure the new boom position doesn't interfere with stuff it shouldn't interfere with.

Great question. If you expected a reliable how-to guide, but instead this article stabbed your tinkering enthusiasm in the back with a long list of all the inevitable negatives, consider this mighty plan B.

If the goal is to get the boom out of the cockpit (and in most instances, this will be the case), there is a possible alternative that requires little in terms of effort, at least compared to the original plan. And you won't even need a screwdriver.

Here is what you can do - simply raise the end of the boom enough to have it be well above the cockpit area. Yes, that means raising it a lot - enough to require altering the sail shape. But that will be the only demanding thing you will have to do, regardless of whether you want to try to reshape the sail yourself (not recommended) or buy a new one.

Cost of Replacing Sails To get a quick grasp on whether the light is worth the candle, you can check the cost of replacing sails here .

You can try this safely by tightening your topping lift as much as needed to achieve your desired angle, and you will see if it is enough to get you the desired result.

I apologize. I try to encourage sailing-related ideas and figuring out how to realize them, but contrary to what this might seem like at first glance, raising a boom is no simple task since you have to consider the sensitivity of the rigging orchestra. That being said, even though it is not a DIY project and takes more than a weekend of work, it can be done. So if you are up for it, go for it.

You may also like, sailboat parts explained: illustrated guide (with diagrams).

When you first get into sailing, there are a lot of sailboat parts to learn. Scouting for a good guide to all the parts, I couldn't find any, so I wrote one myself.

Beautiful white gaff-rigged cutter with gaff top sail and two staysails

How Much Do New Sails Cost?

How To Use Your Mainsheet Traveler (The Right Way)

What is a Sailboat Boom?

A sailboat boom is a prominent horizontal spar extending from the base of the mast. The base of the sail attaches to the boom.

The boom is an essential sailboat part. It supports the base of the sail and swings from side to side. Sailors use the boom to control the trim of the mainsail. Among other things, the boom can be used to increase or decrease the speed of the boat.

Table of contents

How does a Sailboat Boom Work?

On a sailboat, the boom is attached to the lower part of the mast. It's connected using a set of links, a swivel, or a gooseneck allowing it to move freely in all directions. While under sail, the boom is rigged to move side to side.

The bottom portion of the mainsail, which is called the foot, mounts lengthwise to the boom. This allows the boom to control the lateral position of the mainsail.

What are Sailboat Booms Made Of?

Most modern fiberglass sailboat booms are made of aluminum. Hollow aluminum booms are strong, affordable, and relatively lightweight. Early sailing vessels used spruce and other strong woods. Traditional wooden booms require frequent maintenance, but they're strong and proven.

High-end vessels and racing sailboats sometimes use carbon fiber booms. Carbon fiber is strong and extremely light, and it makes an excellent boom material. Fiberglass booms are common on smaller sailboats, though aluminum is the most prevalent boom material.

Why is it called the "Boom?"

The origins of the term "boom" in the sailing world are unclear. Some people speculate that the word came from the early use of Lateen rigs in the middle east, while others attribute the term to colloquial sailor-talk.

Nonetheless, "boom" is a fitting name. An easy way to remember the boom is to picture what happens when you quickly shift heading and forget to move your head out of the way. The boom swings to the other side with the full force of the wind and gives you a nice tap on the head.

Does Every Sailboat have a Boom?

Not all sailboats use a boom. In fact, the simplest sailing craft does away with the boom entirely. One modern example of a boomless sailboat rig is the Ljungström rig, which was designed by Fredrik Ljungström around 1945.

This simple rig uses two triangular mainsails tied together at the luff and trimmed by a single piece of rope in each corner. Many ancient rigs did without the boom and relied on a single top-mounted spar instead.

Why do Most Sailboats Have Booms?

The boom greatly increases the precision with which you can trim the sail. It provides support and 'draws in' the power of the sail and makes tight windward sailing much easier. If the boom wasn't a significantly useful development, it wouldn't be so common.

Sailboat Boom Parts

The boom on a typical sailboat is a straightforward component. That said, the boom is made up of a few important parts that you'll need to know. Here are a few of the parts found on and connected to the boom.

The foremost part of the boom is the gooseneck, which connects the boom to the mast. The gooseneck allows the boom to move up, down, and side to side.

Beneath the boom is the vang, which facilitates the downward force necessary to keep the sail from pulling the boom up the mast. It's a counterforce. Most sailboat boom vang systems use lines and pulleys. However, some vessels use a solid bar vang.

The mainsheet and its accompanying rigging attach to the bottom of the boom forward of the vang. The mainsheet controls the lateral movement and the trim of the sail.

The boom sometimes has reef lines attached to it, which allow you to tie up excess sail material after reefing. Reefing lines on older and simpler sailboats must be tied up individually after reefing.

Topping Lift

A topping lift keeps the boom level when the main halyard and the sail are loosened. Topping lifts are not found on all sailboats, but they're becoming more common each year.

Attaching the Mainsail to the Boom

A sailboat boom has hardware for attaching the foot of the mainsail. The type of hardware depends on the boat, and systems range from simple and manual to complex and automated.

Generally speaking, there are two ways to attach the mainsail to the boom. The 'loose-footed' boom design is the simplest and only ties down the sail at the corner tack and clew. The second method attaches the entire foot of the sail to the boom.

Controlling the Boom

There are two primary boom control lines on most sailboats. The first is the mainsheet, which controls how far the boom moves from side to side. The other is the outhaul, which connects to the clew, controlling the tension of the foot.

Furling Booms

Furling booms are yet another wonderful invention of the sailing community. These booms utilize an internal spindle for winding (or furling) the sail on-command.

Furling booms are useful for reefing the sail , as they eliminate the need for tying down excess material. Additionally, in-boom reefing systems offer a convenient way to stow the sail when necessary.

Electric furling booms are a new arrival to the high-end sailboat scene, but they're also available for retrofitting onto older vessels. When combined with electric winches, an electric furling boom can eliminate the need to go on deck when sailing.

These upgrades are common on large cruising vessels, as they allow you to control almost every aspect of your rigging without leaving the cockpit or interacting with any tack, cleats, winches, or lines.

Boom Maintenance

The boom is an essential part of sailboat rigging that must be properly maintained. The same goes for all the blocks, lines, winches, and cleats that work with the boom.

Aluminum Boom Maintenance

Aluminum booms require inspection and hardware maintenance. Galvanic corrosion can compromise the strength of the boom, and it's especially common in areas where hardware mounts to the metal. Aluminum booms can dent, deform, and bend under stress, so it's important to keep an eye out for kinks.

Wooden Boom Maintenance

Wooden spars require much more maintenance than aluminum, as wood is organic and sensitive to the sun, saltwater, and general weathering. Rotted spars are no good and must be replaced. Regular refinishing and coats of spar varnish can help prevent decay and keep the boom looking fantastic for decades.

Fiberglass and Carbon Fiber Boom Maintenance

Fiberglass and carbon fiber booms are low maintenance but still require inspection. Cracks, UV damage, and warping are common concerns with fiberglass booms in particular. Fiberglass is relatively easy to repair and may require gel coat touch-ups from time to time. Carbon fiber is tricky and costly, though initially stronger.

Boom Safety

Booms are one of the most common causes of injury aboard sailboats. All jokes aside, the boom can be pretty hazardous. The primary risk comes from head injuries, as the force of the wind can swing the boom with tremendous force. The boom can also shift on a dime, so it's essential to be cautious when moving around the cockpit.

In some cases, people standing on or around the boom have been knocked right off the boat by a sudden swing. The same force that causes a head injury can launch a fully grown adult right off the side and cause a perilous man overboard situation.

Keeping Passengers Safe around the Boom

Many sailing accidents occur because inexperienced passengers simply aren't aware of the boom, how it moves, and where it goes. The majority of these boom-related accidents can be avoided if everyone aboard follows a few simple rules.

First of all, ensure everyone wears a certified life jacket. Instruct passengers to always keep their heads clear of the boom and not to stand in an area where they could easily fall (or be flung) overboard. Use care when entering or exiting the cabin and when moving around the boom. Also, make sure everyone is seated and out of range of the boom when turning.

Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

by this author

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are used to allow easy adjustment of the Boom height, and either fit into an integral Track extruded in the Mast Section, or to a separate Track mounted on the Mast. On smaller boats use of a Gooseneck Slide will obviate the need for a Halyard Winch, by allowing use of a rope tackle to tension the sail luff once the Halyard is cleated. All Gooseneck Slides incorporate provisions for attachment of a downhaul line or shackle, or a pin stop to lock it into place on the Track. Non-Sliding are listed separately, See: . they slide in or on, Special Gooseneck Slides and Slide Assemblies are listed separately. Rig-Rite stocks a large variety of originally produced by many different Spar Builders. As always, there have been many 'specials' produced over the years, if a Gooseneck Slide you need is not listed here, please contact us with complete dimensions. For Toggles compatible with the Gooseneck Slides listed here (and others), See .



Standard SS Gooseneck Slide designed for use with the standard Kenyon 3/4" Toggle, . Slide fits Kenyon B, D, E, 3049, and 3650 Mast Sections, and other Mast Sections with a boltrope groove that is 9/16" ID or larger. Slide has welded SS ring for downhaul attachment and includes 1/4" pin for Toggle attachment. Slide is 2 1/2" long x (maximum) 5/8" wide.

SS Gooseneck Slide designed for use with the standard Kenyon 3/4" Toggle, , and Mast Sections with boltrope grooves. Slide fits Kenyon A, C-1, C-6, 2331, and MORC Mast Sections, and other Mast Sections with a boltrope groove that is 1/2" ID or smaller. Slide has welded SS ring for downhaul attachment and includes 1/4" pin for Toggle attachment. Slide is 2 1/2" long x (maximum) 5/8" wide. #
Standard SS Gooseneck Slide designed for use with the standard Kenyon 1" Toggle, . Slide fits Kenyon B, D, E, 3049, and 3650 Mast Sections, and other Mast Sections with a boltrope groove that is 9/16" ID or larger. Slide has heavy welded SS ring for downhaul attachment and includes 1/4" bolt and locknut for Toggle attachment. Slide is 3" long x 1" (maximum) wide.
SS Gooseneck Slide designed for use with the standard Kenyon 1" Toggle, , and Mast Sections with boltrope grooves. Slide fits Kenyon A, C-1, C-6, 2331, and MORC Mast Sections, and other Mast Sections with a boltrope groove that is 1/2" ID or smaller. Slide has heavy welded SS ring for downhaul attachment and includes 1/4" bolt and locknut for Toggle attachment. Slide is 3" long x 1" (maximum) wide.
SS Gooseneck Slide specially designed for use with Kenyon Gooseneck Toggle/Tack Assemblies. Slide fits Kenyon B, D, E, 3049, and 3650 Mast Sections, and other Mast Sections with a boltrope groove that is 9/16" ID or larger. Slide has heavy welded SS ring for attachment of downhaul line or shackle and includes vertical bolt and locknut. SS Gooseneck Slide is 3" high x 1" (maximum) wide and fits most 1 1/2" Toggles using a

SS Gooseneck Slide specially designed for use with Kenyon Gooseneck Toggle/Tack Assemblies, and Mast Sections with boltrope grooves. Slide fits Kenyon A, C-1, C-6, 2331, and MORC Mast Sections, and other Mast Sections with a boltrope groove that is 1/2" ID or smaller. Slide has heavy welded SS ring for attachment of downhaul line or shackle and includes vertical bolt and locknut. SS Gooseneck Slide is 3" high x 1" (maximum) wide and fits most 1 1/2" Toggles using a
Extruded Aluminum Gooseneck Slide fits , and a few other Teardrop-shaped mast sections with a 1/2" boltrope groove. Aft side has 1 5/8" cutout for Gooseneck Toggle, , and others, and features 1/4" hole for downhaul line or shackle. Gooseneck Slide is 3" high x 5/8" wide and includes locknut, and nylon washers to eliminate chafe against Toggle. and a variety of others.

Cast Bronze Gooseneck Slide was designed for use with special Famet Tubular Gooseneck Toggles, , but also accepts a variety of Gooseneck Toggles up to 2 1/4" high with a Slide fits all Mast Sections with a boltrope groove that is 9/16" ID or larger. Slide has 5/16" hole for downhaul attachment and is 3 1/4" long x (maximum) 15/16" wide. Used with standard and Roller-Reefing Goosenecks.



Machined Aluminum Gooseneck Slide fits most Mast Sections with a 3/4" flat internal track. Gooseneck Slide is 4" high x 11/16" wide and attaches to Toggle using a Aft side has 1 5/8" cutout for Gooseneck Toggle, , and others, and features 5/16" hole for downhaul line or shackle. Includes vertical SS bolt, locknut, and nylon washers to eliminate chafe against Toggle. and others. *

Machined Aluminum Gooseneck Slide fits most Mast Sections with a 3/4" flat internal track. Gooseneck Slide is 4" high x 11/16" wide and attaches to Toggle using a Aft side has 1 5/8" cutout for Gooseneck Toggle, and features 5/16" hole for downhaul line or shackle. Includes vertical SS bolt, locknut, and nylon washers to eliminate chafe against Toggle.

Machined Aluminum Gooseneck Slide fits most Mast Sections with a 3/4" flat internal track. Gooseneck Slide is 4 3/4" high x 11/16" wide and attaches to Toggle using a Aft side has 2 1/2" cutout for Gooseneck Toggle, and features 5/16" hole for downhaul line or shackle. Includes 5/16" vertical Pin and nylon washers to eliminate chafe against Toggle.

Cast Aluminum Gooseneck Slide fits most Mast Sections with a 3/4" flat internal track. Gooseneck Slide is 5" high x (maximum) 1" wide and attaches to Toggle using a Aft side has 1 9/16" cutout for Gooseneck Toggle, and features 7/16" hole for downhaul line or shackle. Includes vertical SS threaded Pin. Originally used with standard and Roller-Reefing Goosenecks made in Holland in the 1960's.

Cast, welded SS Gooseneck Slide fits most Mast Sections with a 3/4" flat internal track. Gooseneck Slide is 3 3/4" high x (maximum) 7/8" wide and attaches to Toggle using a Aft side has 2 1/8" cutout for Gooseneck Toggle, and features welded SS ring with 5/16" hole for downhaul line or shackle. Includes vertical SS bolt, locknut, and nylon washers to eliminate chafe against Toggle.

Machined Aluminum Gooseneck Slide fits most Mast Sections with a 3/4" flat internal track. Gooseneck Slide is 4 3/4" high x 11/16" wide and attaches to Toggle using a Aft side has 2 1/4" cutout for Gooseneck Toggle, and features 5/16" hole for downhaul line or shackle. Includes vertical SS bolt, locknut, and nylon washers to eliminate chafe against Toggle.

Cast Bronze Gooseneck Slide fits most Mast Sections with a 3/4" flat internal track. Gooseneck Slide is 4 5/8" high x 1" (maximum) wide and uses a Aft side has 2 5/16" cutout for Gooseneck Toggle, and features 1/2" hole for downhaul line or shackle. This Slide is used with a variety of vertical pin arrangements, so .

Cast Bronze Gooseneck Slide fits most Mast Sections with a 3/4" flat internal track. Gooseneck Slide is 4 5/8" high x 1" (maximum) wide and uses a Aft side has 2 5/16" cutout for Gooseneck Toggle, and features 1/2" hole for downhaul line or shackle. This Slide is used with a variety of vertical pin arrangements, so . Replaces original cast Aluminum version. As used on , and with a special Tack bolt arrangement and RR Gooseneck Toggle, .

Machined Aluminum Gooseneck Slide fits most Mast Sections with a 3/4" flat internal track. Gooseneck Slide is 5 7/8" high x 7/8" (.865") wide and uses a Aft side has 2 7/16" cutout for Gooseneck Toggle, and features 1/2" hole for downhaul line or shackle. Includes 1/2" Vertical Pin and nylon washers to eliminate chafe against Toggle. As used on MetalMast (and other Mast Sections with a 3/4" flat internal track) on a variety of boats, including and others.


Aluminum Gooseneck Slide has special configuration to fit all Mast Sections with a 7/8" or 15/16" flat internal track. Gooseneck Slide is 5 7/8" high x 7/8" (.865") wide and uses a Aft side has 2 7/16" cutout for Gooseneck Toggle, and features 1/2" hole for downhaul line or shackle. Includes 1/2" Vertical Pin and nylon washers to eliminate chafe against Toggle. As used on Sound Spar (and other Mast Sections with a 7/8" or 15/16" flat internal track) on a variety of boats, including and others. Replaces earlier Cast version.

SS Gooseneck Slide to fit Mast Sections with a 7/8" flat internal track. Unique design allows use with Toggles fitting inside or outside of ears, unit has no provisions for downhaul attachment. Aft side ears allows use with a Toggle up to 1 3/4" high (between ears), or a Gooseneck Toggle with a 2 5/8" cutout (fitting outside of the ears). Cast Stainless Steel Gooseneck Slide is 4" high x 1 1/4" (maximum) wide and uses a This Slide is used with a variety of vertical pin arrangements, so no vertical pin is included.


SS Gooseneck Slide to fit Mast Sections with a 1" flat internal track. Unique design allows use with Toggles fitting inside or outside of ears, unit has no provisions for downhaul attachment. Aft side ears allows use with a Toggle up to 1 3/4" high (between ears), or a Gooseneck Toggle with a 2 5/8" cutout (fitting outside of the ears). Slide features (2) 1/4" screw holes for use when fixed installation is required. Cast Stainless Steel Gooseneck Slide is 4" high x 1 1/4" (maximum) wide and uses a This Slide is used with a variety of vertical pin arrangements, so no vertical pin is included.

Cast Bronze Gooseneck Slide to fit Mast Sections with a 1" flat internal track. Cast Slide accepts a variety of Gooseneck Toggles up to 2 3/8" high with a (included). Slide has integral loop for downhaul attachment and is 6" high x 1 3/8" wide. Used with Famet standard and Roller-Reefing Goosenecks.



SS Gooseneck Slide Assembly for 5/8" (11/16" wide) Sailtrack (or 5/8" Aluminum Gooseneck Slide Track) and 5/8" wide Boom. Formed SS strap is 3 3/4" long x 1/2" wide, and attaches to 5/8" wide wood "T" Boom with (2) #10 (3/16") screws and nuts. Slide is 1 13/16" long, fits 5/8" Sail Track, and features captive SS Thumbscrew to allow for quick Boom height adjustment.
SS Gooseneck Slide for 5/8" (11/16" wide) Sailtrack (or 5/8" Aluminum Gooseneck Slide Track) fits any gooseneck assembly using the standard Kenyon 3/4" Toggle, , with a (included). Slide has 3/8" hole for downhaul attachment a SS Thumbscrew to allow for quick Boom height adjustment. Slide is 4" long x 7/8" wide and fits 5/8" Sail Track.

SS Gooseneck Slide for 7/8" Sailtrack fits any gooseneck assembly using the standard Kenyon 3/4" Toggle, , with a and locknut (included). Slide has welded eye for downhaul attachment a SS Thumbscrew to allow for quick Boom height adjustment. Slide is 4" long x 1 1/8" wide and fits 7/8" Sail Track. ##r


SS Gooseneck Slide for 7/8" x 1/8" SS Flat Track fits any gooseneck assembly using the standard Kenyon 1" Toggle, , with a and locknut (included). Slide has heavy welded SS ring for downhaul attachment. Slide is 3" long x 1 1/16" wide and fits 7/8" x 1/8" SS Flat Track.

Bronze Gooseneck Slide fits 7/8" x 1/8" SS Flat Track. Cast Slide accepts a variety of Gooseneck Toggles up to 2 3/8" high with a (included). Slide has integral loop for downhaul attachment and is 4 1/2" long x 1 7/16" wide. Used with Famet standard and Roller-Reefing Goosenecks.


Special Chrome Bronze Gooseneck Slide for 15/16" x 1/4" T-Track fits Special 5/8" vertical gooseneck Toggle Bolt. Slide has 5/8" ID x 1 1/2" long vertical Tube for attachment to Special vertical gooseneck Toggle Bolt used with some Barton and Tuphfitting Gooseneck assemblies. Slide is 3 1/4" long x 1 1/4" wide and includes thumbscrew for positive positioning on Track. Special Plastic Gooseneck T-Track is also available in 15" lengths. Order

SS Gooseneck Slide for 1" x 1/8" SS Flat Track fits Rig-Rite 3/4" gooseneck Toggle with a and locknut (included). Slide has heavy welded SS ring for downhaul attachment. Slide is 3" long x 1 1/8" wide and fits 1" x 1/8" SS Flat Track.

SS Gooseneck Slide with Spring Pin fits 1" x 1/8" SS Flat Track standard 1" aluminum T-Track. Slide fits special 3/4" Gooseneck Toggle ( ) with a (included). SS Spring Pin allows for quick and positive Boom height adjustment in track stop holes. Slide is 3" long x 1 1/4" wide and fits 1" x 1/8" Flat Track.

Special SS Gooseneck Slide for 1" x 1/8" SS Flat Track ( standard 1" aluminum T-Track), fits any gooseneck assembly using the standard Kenyon 1" Toggle, , with a and locknut (included). Slide has heavy welded SS ring for downhaul attachment. SS Slide is 3" long x 1 1/8" wide. Available on Special order. 67881

Special SS Gooseneck Slide specially designed for use with Kenyon Gooseneck Toggle/Tack Assemblies. Slide fits standard 1" x 1/8" T-Track or SS Flat Track. SS Gooseneck Slide is 3" high x (maximum) 1 1/8" wide and fits most 1 1/2" Toggles using a Slide has heavy welded SS ring for attachment of downhaul line or shackle and includes vertical bolt and locknut. Available on Special order.

Chromed Bronze Gooseneck Slide fits 1" x 1/8" SS or Bronze Flat Track standard 1" aluminum T-Track. Cast Slide accepts a variety of Gooseneck Toggles up to 2 3/8" high with a (included). Slide has integral loop for downhaul attachment and is 4" long x 1 7/8" wide. Used with Nicro-Fico standard and Roller-Reefing Goosenecks. NM-320-5

Chromed Bronze Gooseneck Slide fits 1" x 1/8" SS or Bronze Flat Track standard 1" aluminum T-Track. Cast Slide accepts a variety of Gooseneck Toggles up to 2 3/8" high with a (included). Slide has integral loop for downhaul attachment and is 4" long x 1 7/8" wide. Used with Nicro-Fico standard and Roller-Reefing Goosenecks. NM-320-8


SS Gooseneck Slide for 1 1/4" x 3/16" SS Flat Track ( standard 1 1/4" aluminum T-Track), fits any gooseneck assembly using the standard Kenyon 1" Toggle, , with a and locknut (included). Slide has heavy welded SS ring for downhaul attachment. SS Slide is 3" long x 1 1/2" wide. As used on some

Special SS Gooseneck Slide specially designed for use with Kenyon Gooseneck Toggle/Tack Assemblies. Slide fits 1 1/4" x 3/16" SS Flat Track ( Kenyon 1 1/4" Gooseneck Track, as well as standard 1 1/4" aluminum T-Track). SS Gooseneck Slide is 4" high x (maximum) 1 1/2" wide and fits most 1 1/2" Toggles using a Slide has heavy welded SS ring for attachment of downhaul line or shackle. As used on some

Chromed Bronze Gooseneck Slide fits 1 1/4" x 3/16" SS or Bronze Flat Track. Cast Slide accepts a variety of Gooseneck Toggles up to 2 1/2" high with a (included). Slide features recess underneath for use where Sailtrack (up to 5/8") is mounted on top of the Gooseneck Slide Track. Slide has integral loop for downhaul attachment and is 4" long x 1 7/8" wide.


Bronze Gooseneck Slide fits 1 1/2" x 3/16" SS or Bronze Flat Track. Cast Slide accepts a variety of Gooseneck Toggles up to 2 1/2" high with a (included). Slide features recess underneath for use where Sailtrack (up to 7/8") is mounted on top of the Gooseneck Slide Track. Slide has integral loop for downhaul attachment and is 4" long x 1 7/8" wide.


Bronze Gooseneck Slide fits 1 1/2" x 1/4" SS or Bronze Flat Track. Heavy Cast Slide accepts a variety of Gooseneck Toggles up to 2 3/8" high with a (included). Slide features recess underneath for use where Sailtrack (up to 7/8") is mounted on top of the Gooseneck Slide Track. Slide has integral loop for downhaul attachment and is 4 1/2" long x 2 1/8" wide.


Bronze Gooseneck Slide fits 2" x 1/4" SS or Bronze Flat Track. Heavy Cast Slide accepts a variety of Gooseneck Toggles up to with a (included). Slide features recess underneath for use where Sailtrack (up to 1") is mounted on top of the Gooseneck Slide Track. Slide has integral loop for downhaul attachment and is 6 3/8" long x 2 9/16" wide.


Chrome Bronze Gooseneck Slide fits 2" x 5/16" SS or Bronze Flat Track. Heavy Cast Slide accepts a variety of Gooseneck Toggles up to 2 3/8" high with a (included). Slide features recess underneath for use where Sailtrack (up to 1") is mounted on top of the Gooseneck Slide Track. Slide has integral loop for downhaul attachment and is 4 1/2" long x 2 1/2" wide.


Special Gooseneck Slide to fit Nicro-Fico and Ronstan 7/8" SS "C" Track. Die-cast chromed Bronze assembly includes for attachment of Gooseneck Toggle up to 1 1/16" High. Slide features Spring Pin stop which is able to be locked in either up or down position, and has 3/16" hole for optional downhaul attachment. Slide is 3 1/4" long x (maximum) 7/8" wide. Commonly used with Gooseneck Toggle, Tack and Yoke Assembly, . RF511SX



Special Small SS Gooseneck Slide Assembly to fit Proctor Dingy Masts with unmodified track, and Booms with standard 1/2" Square hole in boom end. Investment Cast SS Assembly features large captive Thumbscrew to allow for quick Boom height adjustment. Slide is (maximum) 2 13/16" long x 5/8" (.600") wide. Waist is 5/32" wide x (minimum) 1/8" high. * This item is and is shown here for identification only.

Gooseneck Slide Assembly to fit Proctor Dingy Masts where integral Track has been spread to 5/8" wide, and Booms with standard 1/2" Square hole in boom end. Investment Cast SS Assembly features arrangement and large Thumbscrew to allow for quick Boom height adjustment. Slide is (maximum) 2 7/8" long x 7/8" (.850") wide. Waist is 9/16" wide x 1/4" (.240") high. asg

Gooseneck Slide Assembly to fit Proctor Dingy Masts where integral Track has been spread to 5/8" wide, and Booms with standard 1/2" Square hole in boom end. Investment Cast SS Assembly features for maximum articulation and large Thumbscrew to allow for quick Boom height adjustment. Slide is (maximum) 3" long x 7/8" (.850") wide. Waist is 9/16" wide x 1/4" (.240") high. asg

Gooseneck Slide to fit Proctor Dingy Masts where integral Track has been spread to 5/8" wide, and Booms with special 5/8" Vertical Pin. Investment Cast SS Slide has welded 5/8" ID vertical tube to accept with 5/8" vertical attachment Pin. Slide features large Thumbscrew to allow for quick Boom height adjustment. Slide is (maximum) 3 1/4" long x 7/8" (.850") wide. Waist is 9/16" wide x 1/4" (.240") high. ws

SS Gooseneck Slide to fit Proctor Masts with 3/4" internal flat track has Thumbscrew to lock it in place. Investment Cast SS Slide accepts a 3/4" high Toggle with a 3/8" vertical Pin. Slide is (maximum) 3" long x 3/4" (.748") wide. Short waist is 7/16" (.455") wide x 1/8" (.145") high, and restricts usage on many Mast Sections.
SS Gooseneck Slide and Toggle Assembly to fit Proctor Masts with 3/4" internal flat track, and Booms requiring a 3/4" wide Toggle with a 3/8" horizontal Pin. Investment Cast SS Slide has 3/8" vertical Pin with Shackles for Tack and downhaul, and 3/4" square x 1 3/4" long Aluminum Toggle with 3/8" horizontal Pin (included) to fit a variety of Proctor Booms. Slide is (maximum) 3" long x 3/4" (.748") wide. Short waist is 7/16" (.455") wide x 1/8" (.145") high, and restricts usage on many Mast Sections. ats

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Lido 14 Parts

Gooseneck- Lido 14

Gooseneck attaches the boom to the mast and is made all from stainless steel.

Description

$ 139.00 Original price was: $139.00. $ 125.00 Current price is: $125.00.

Additional information

The gooseneck is the swivel connection on a sailboat which attaches the boom to the mast. Made entirely from stainless steel. Fits Lido 14 and other boats which have a 1 5/8″ ID tube boom. Contact us for more information.

Installation Instructions

Lido 14 Boom Extrusion

Lido 14 Parts $ 175.00 – $ 275.00 Choose Options

Lido 14 Boom Stiffener

Lido 14 Parts $ 75.00 + Add to cart

Complete Lido 14 boom is ready to sail. Comes with all parts and boom stiffener.

New Lido 14 Boom Complete Special

Lido 14 Parts $ 900.00 Original price was: $900.00. $ 799.00 Current price is: $799.00. + Add to cart

Boom End Outhaul Exit

Lido 14 Parts $ 21.00 + Add to cart

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Sabot board bag. Sunbrella cover with 1/8" close cell foam protects the blades from damage. Protect your rudder and leeboard. Holds the tiller and extension.

Cal 20 Parts $ 195.00 – $ 250.00 Choose Options

Tiller-Custom Size

Cal 20 Parts $ 65.00 Choose Options

Centerboard Hangers – Lido 14

Kick Up Lido 14 rudder for the 6000 series models

Kick Up Rudder

Blades $ 495.00 Original price was: $495.00. $ 475.00 Current price is: $475.00. + Add to cart

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The RS Cat 16 XL is a class leading Roto-molded high performance beach cat with a modern hull shape. Can easily be single-handed or sail with a family crew. Exceptionally strong, simple and fast to assemble. Main and Jib standard with asymmetrical spinnaker and single trapeze.

Catalina 22 Sport is our most popular boat. The Retractable Keel "swing keel" draws 1' 8" with the keel up and 5' with the keel down "It sails with the keel up or down". The new Catalina 22 Sport is the perfect west coast of Florida weekend cruiser or daysailor [..]

The RS Aero is a 21st Century modern single-handed sailboat, much like the Laser was 47 years ago. The Hull weighs 66 lbs. and total sailing weight at 88 lbs. RS's philosophy has always been to prioritize Ultra-Light weight, Performance and Practically in order to produce a simple, [...]

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SAIL LOFT ST PETERSBURG, FLORIDA, US

North Sails is the world's premier sailmaker for racing and cruising sailboats. Since opening our first sail loft in 1957, we have been the number one new sail choice for world-champion racers, superyachts, one-design sailboats , catamarans, trimarans, and casual cruisers. New sail options range to cater to any sailing adventure or budget. We look forward to welcoming you to our sail loft in St Petersburg, Florida. Contact our experts to learn more.

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IMAGES

Wooden Mast an Gooseneck at a Classic Sailboat Stock Photo
sailboat detail of mast
Sailing boat moored in Caernafon harbour, aluminium mast, boom and spar
Wooden Mast an Gooseneck at a Classic Sailboat Stock Image
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Mast Gooseneck Fitting With Pivot » Allen

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COMMENTS

Gooseneck (sailing)
Gooseneck swivel on jigger-mast of Nippon Maru sail training vessel in Yokohama harbor. The gooseneck is the swivel connection on a sailboat by which the boom attaches to the mast.The boom may pivot in any direction, from side to side or up and down, by swiveling on the gooseneck. [1]The gooseneck may be a two-axis swivel as pictured.
Rig-Rite
Since 1961, RIG-RITE has engineered, manufactured and distributed Spars, Rigging and Hardware Systems for Sailboats. RIG-RITE stocks the largest variety of related Systems and Hardware available anywhere, Specializing in original replacement parts for Systems on yachts built the world over. Spars - Masts, Booms, Spreaders, Spinnaker Poles ...
Sailboat Boom Hardware & Parts
Fisheries Supply offers a comprehensive range of sailboat boom parts, including: Gooseneck sailboat fittings for connecting the boom to the mast. Boom end fittings for attaching lines and rigging. Outhauls for adjusting the mainsail's foot. These high-quality components are designed for durability and reliability, ensuring seamless sail ...
Sailboat Spar Parts and Fittings
Dwyer Mast & Rigging offers a wide range of parts and hardware commonly used on sailboat masts and booms including bails, chainplates and stemheads, cleats, clevis pins, connecting hardware and fasteners, eye straps and mast eyes, gooseneck assemblies, halyard organizer plates, mast steps and bases, hinges, spreaders, and more. (260)
Dwyer Mast & Rigging
Dwyer Mast & Rigging manufactures high-quality sailboat masts, booms, hardware, and rigging. Originally founded in 1963 as Dwyer Aluminum Mast Company, the legacy continues as an OEM supplier by taking advantage of improved manufacturing methods to offer a wide range of products and services for the marine industry.
Replacing a broken gooseneck on my sailboat mast
The real challenge (time-sink) to this project was the removal of the busted gooseneck. As you can see, the goosneck is bolted onto the aluminum mast by 5 large stainless steel bolts. Well, 39 years of ocean living, had oxidized and melded these two metals together. Plus, these bolts had phillips heads.
Sailboat Hardware
Type 1: Boats up to 250 lbs Dollies. Type 2: Laser, Byte & Invitation Dollies. Type 3: Curled Gunwale Boats Dollies. Type 4.1: Small/Med Bowsprit Boats Dollies. Type 4.2: Heavier Sprit Boats Dollies. Type 5: Heavier Doble-Handed Boats Dollies.
Gooseneck/Boom Brackets, Outhauls & Sliders
BOAT CLASS VRSPORT TV; TECH TALKS. SUP. WINDSURF. GIFT VOUCHERS Basket. Your basket is empty. ... Selden Boom and Gooseneck Aluminium Toggle - 528-094 ... Allen Stainless Steel Fixed Gooseneck - 12mm Pin for 50mm Mast
Rigbuilding Tips & Tricks
The best mast is 12mm or ½" aluminum tube available at local hardware and metal stores. ... The lower end of the mast is fitted to its mast box depending on the boat. The gooseneck which connects the main boom to the mast is installed above and as close to the deck as possible. Luff length is measured from there. The top end of the mast is ...
How To Raise the Boom on a Sailboat in 5 Easy Steps
1. Drilling New Holes. The gooseneck is attached to the mast with rivets or screws, so it is possible to change its position by simply drilling new holes in the desired height. Do this carefully though. There are incredible forces exerted on a mast when under sail and you don't want to compromise its rigidity.
What is a Sailboat Boom?
A sailboat boom is a prominent horizontal spar extending from the base of the mast. The base of the sail attaches to the boom. The boom is an essential sailboat part. It supports the base of the sail and swings from side to side. Sailors use the boom to control the trim of the mainsail. Among other things, the boom can be used to increase or ...
Boom (sailing)
1 - boom, 2 - mast, 3 - gooseneck, 4 - sail, 5 - topping lift... 7 - mainsheet, 8 - boom vang.... In sailing, a boom is a spar (pole), along the foot of a fore and aft rigged sail, that greatly improves control of the angle and shape of the sail.The primary action of the boom is to keep the foot flatter when the sail angle is away from the centerline of the boat.
Gooseneck Slides
Gooseneck Slides: Gooseneck Slides are used to allow easy adjustment of the Boom height, and either fit into an integral Track extruded in the Mast Section, or to a separate Track mounted on the Mast. On smaller boats use of a Gooseneck Slide will obviate the need for a Halyard Winch, by allowing use of a rope tackle to tension the sail luff once the Halyard is cleated.
Boom to Mast connection and gooseneck
Remove the pin in that fitting and the boom gooseneck fitting should fit into the slot where the pin was resting. Then slip the pin back through the boom gooseneck fitting top, through the gooseneck, and through the bottom boom gooseneck fitting. Flip the pin keeper end out to lock the pin so that it will not slide up and come out .
gooseneck/boom brackets : Seldén Mast AB
GOOSENECK/BOOM BRACKETS. Masts. Booms. Furlex jib furling and reefing systems. Rigid vangs - Rodkickers. Spinnaker & gennaker hardware.
Gooseneck- Lido 14
Total. $129.00$115.00. Add to cart. Description. Additional information. The gooseneck is the swivel connection on a sailboat which attaches the boom to the mast. Made entirely from stainless steel. Fits Lido 14 and other boats which have a 1 5/8″ ID tube boom. Contact us for more information.
Masthead Enterprises Home Page
SPINNAKER. STORM SAILS. Don't have your rig dimensions, no problem. Click here to search by boat: RIG DIMENSIONS TABLE . If you prefer for us to assist you in finding the right sail, please call 727-327-5361 or email: [email protected]. OR fill out our contact form here and we'll contact you: CONTACT FORM.
SAIL LOFT ST PETERSBURG, FLORIDA, US
NORTH SAILS. North Sails is the world's premier sailmaker for racing and cruising sailboats. Since opening our first sail loft in 1957, we have been the number one new sail choice for world-champion racers, superyachts, one-design sailboats, catamarans, trimarans, and casual cruisers. New sail options range to cater to any sailing.
Sailicity Yacht Sales & Charters
Our Charter Concierge will craft private charters from half-day, weekend, or up to 14-day voyages. We have multiple types of charters; that sail anywhere in Florida along the Atlantic coast in the spring and fall with our Summer base in New England and our Winter Home in the Caribbean. Sailicity's concierge service removes the headaches of ...
St. Petersburg Yacht Sales and Service 727-823-2555
St. Petersburg Yacht Sales and Service 727-823-2555. St. Petersburg Yacht Sales and Service has been serving customers since 1964 and is located in downtown St. Petersburg. We are close by the St. Petersburg Municipal Marina where we have some of our many brokerage boats on display. Here are the advantages of listing your yacht or boat with St ...