sailboat vs fishing boat hauling nets

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Right of Way Rules

If a power-driven vessel (A) approaches your powered vessel (B) in your port sector, maintain your course and speed with caution and be ready to take evasive action quickly if the approaching vessel does not take action to stay clear of you.

If a power-driven boat (A) approaches your power-driven vessel (B) from directly in front of you, then you should deliver one short-blast sound signal and alter your course to starboard so that your vessel passes the approaching vessel on your port side.

If any vessel (A) approaches your vessel (B) from within your stern sector (behind you), maintain your course and speed with caution. Any vessel overtaking another must take early and substantial action to keep well clear of the vessel being overtaken. This rule applies to both powered vessels and sailing vessels.

If your power-driven vessel (A) is on a crossing course with either a sailboat (B) or a vessel that is fishing with nets or trawls, you must take substantial action (alter your course and speed) to keep well clear of the other vessel. (Note: sailing vessels must take early and substantial action to keep clear of vessels fishing with nets or trawls. Just because a commercial fishing vessel with nets or trawls is a powered vessel does not mean that the sailboat has the right of way).

As a general rule, rowboats, sailing vessels, and canoes are less manoeuvrable and therefore have the right-of-way over power-driven boats. However, if one vessel is unable to manoeuvre as it normally would, the most manoeuvrable vessel gives way.

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• Safety & Seamanship
• Boathandling

Collision Avoidance Confusion

The Convention on the International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea, 1972 (COLREGs) cover the rules of navigation and lights and shapes that sailors need in order to avoid collision. However, this is a long document and you’ve got to read the whole thing and all the annexes, and then read the Coast Guard’s interpretation of these rules to truly understand what is expected of a sailor. Based on a number of questions from readers and our own observations, the editors at Practical Sailor recognized that as technology and watercraft have evolved, a few navigation rules pertaining to recreational boats could use further clarification. There are situations that the COLREGs do not describe well, and some rules that are so commonly misunderstood that they bear repeating. For the purposes of this article, rules cited are from the United States Coast Guard Navigation Rules International-Inland (publication COMDTINST M16672.2D). The rules referenced here are the international rules, and inland sailors should familiarize themselves with any inland variations, of which there are several.

THE FUNDAMENTALS

In this report we’ll look at how we can resolve common right-of-way issues, particularly when more than one rule in the COLREGs apply. The main challenge in any right-of-way situation is determining which vessel is the privileged (stand-on) vessel, and which vessel is the burdened (give-way) vessel and therefore required to take any needed action. We’ll focus here on the rules that seem to create the most confusion.

Rule 2 | Responsibility. You are always responsible to do everything practical to minimize risk, especially to avoid a collision. It is never 100-percent the other guy’s fault.

Rule 5 | Look-out. You must maintain a look-out using multiple means, and you must apprise the risk of collision of all vessels as they become known to you. Nothing should be a surprise; you should always have the option to take action as early as possible.

Rule 6 | Safe Speed. Consider the conditions, including visibility, traffic, maneuverability, weather, and water depth. You must always have time and space to perform any necessary actions.

Rule 9 | Narrow Channels. This rule takes precedence over crossing rules and the vessel hierarchy described in Rule 18 (sail vs. power vs. fishing boat, etc.). Smaller vessels (sailboats too) should keep to the outside of ship channels and keep as far as practical to starboard.

Rule 13 | Overtaking. The passing vessel must give way to everything–unless it is a vessel that is not under command (NUC), which by definition is unable to maneuver. Overtaking includes crossing 22.5 degrees aft of the beam, not just from dead astern. Note that sailboat racing rules are a little different, but the COLREGs apply to all meetings between boats not engaged in a race.

Rule 14 | Head-on. When two power-driven vessels are meeting on reciprocal courses or nearly reciprocal courses, each shall alter course to starboard so they pass on the port side of each other. This is easier in the daylight, obviously, but at night familiarity with navigation lights takes on obvious importance.

Rule 15 | Crossing. In crossing situations under power, the vessel to starboard has right of way.

Rule 18 | Responsibilities Between Vessels. Only after the requirements of Rules 9 and 13 are satisfied do you consider the hierarchy of a burdened vessel as described above (not under command or NUC, restricted in her ability to maneuver or RAM, then fishing, sail, power, seaplane). Key point: A sailing vessel equipped with an auxiliary engine that is under power has the same burden of responsibility as a powerboat. The term “power-driven vessel” means any vessel powered by machinery. That includes a sailboat with sails hoisted with the engine running.

Rule 20 | Displaying shapes and lights. You must display the day shape or lights appropriate to your status (sail, power, engaged in fishing, restricted ability to maneuver, etc.) and you only have the status you display. However, Rule 2 and Rule 5 say you are responsible for observing the world around you. If a lobster boat appears to be hauling traps, we should treat it as if it were engaged in fishing.

There is a temptation to always give way, but the COLREGs are not about politeness. The rules are meant to promote maneuvering in a predictable manner. If we all give way, the “sidewalk shuffle” results at every meeting, which can be quite dangerous in close quarters. There is nothing wrong with giving way when you can make this obvious very early, but this “politeness” is no substitute for knowing what is expected of you.

Blasts on the air horn are for close range communication, not expressing your annoyance. Unfortunately, most boaters don’t know the standard signals. The two most essential signals to commit to memory are collision risk (five short blasts) and a warning signal when there is limited visibility around an obstruction (one prolonged blast).

The horn can also be useful for alerting an inattentive watch. Most commonly, I have used the horn to wake someone up when I feel sure they don’t see me (a boat with a deck-sweeping genoa, for example) or are not paying attention (a boat steering erratically). Making way near a blind exit at a marina or near buildings that block visibility ahead are other common situations that call for a warning signal.

VHF is acceptable for communicating with commercial shipping, but is not a substitute for following COLREGs and is not always useful for avoiding collisions. Language barriers are a common problem, the bridge crew can be task-saturated, and other ships in the area may not follow the conversation or agree. Automatic Identification System (AIS) and Digital Selective Calling (DSC) have made it easier to identify and contact unknown vessels, but a call on VHF 13 (used for commercial ship-to-ship maneuvering) or VHF 16 is still the most common means of hailing another ship in your vicinity.

Rule to Remember, #34: When vessels are in sight of one another, a power-driven vessel under way, when maneuvering as authorized or required by these rules, shall indicate that maneuver by the following signals on her whistle: one short blast to mean “I am altering course to starboard;” two short blasts to mean “I am altering my course to port;” three short blasts to mean “I am operating astern propulsion.”

WATCHKEEPING

Every close call I have ever had with another boat related to their failure to watch where they were going. On one memorable occasion we were both reaching with the chute up, with a closing speed of better than 20 knots. I indicated to my partner that although we were privileged in relation to the 60-foot yacht whose path we were crossing, there was clearly no one on deck or on watch. We blew the horn, jibed away, and only after we completed our turn did a startled-looking head appear from below. They were on autopilot with no watch.

Watchkeeping means keeping your eyes out of the cockpit. The instruments and chart plotter call for your attention, but keeping a visual lookout is primary, even with radar, even at night. The lookout requirement does not go away when you are drifting or anchored, and expires only when the boat is tied to a dock.

Rule to Remember, #5: Every vessel shall at all times maintain a proper look-out by looking and listening as well as by all available means appropriate to the prevailing circumstances and conditions so as to make a full appraisal of the situation and of the risk of collision.

KAYAKS AND ROW BOATS

In summer I find myself surrounded by a flock of people in rental kayaks who have no awareness of navigation rules. They believe the harbor is a park, and they don’t understand the traffic patterns or the maneuvering requirements of the boats that come and go.

The COLREGs are mute on the subject of human-powered craft (other than lighting requirements), but the Coast Guard addresses this on the Frequently Asked Questions subsection of its Navigation Center website:

Although a vessel under oars may be lit as a sailing vessel, one should not infer that they are considered to be a sailing vessel for other Rules (i.e. Rule 9, 10, 12, 18 or 35). Ultimately, the issue of whether a vessel under oars is the give-way or stand-on vessel would depend upon what would be required by the ordinary practice of seamen, or by the special circumstances of that situation (Rule 2) and the notion that they are less able to maneuver than most other vessels.

The “ordinary practice of seaman” can be taken to mean common sense. But common sense always requires both knowledge and reflection. Some kayakers know the rules and respect the maneuvering needs of yachts. Some don’t. It is your job to avoid the latter folk regardless of whether they are abiding by the COLREGs.

Certain inland waters may have different rules for human-powered craft. The state of Minnesota and the city of Oceanside, CA, for instance, have local regulations that take opposing stances regarding the right of way of small craft.

HIGH SPEEDS AND ERRATIC COURSES

When something dumb is happening in front of you while driving on the interstate, you lift your foot off the gas to slow a little, while considering other options—including changing lanes. Most discussions in the COLREGs focus primarily on making course changes, but it also addresses safe speed. Speed control applies to sailing vessels as well, since you can ease sails in a second or furl a jib in a minute. Beating or reaching you can simply luff. Downwind you can steer dead downwind and stall the sails. Of course, these later actions could also be misinterpreted as course changes and lead to others to question your intentions. In short, consider all your options—including changing speed. Always try to make your intentions clear.

Keeping the boat oriented in the same direction (holding or keeping station) can be difficult when going slow. This is simple with twin screws or an outboard. In either case, it is useful to turn either bow or stern towards the wind or tide. Backing into the wind or current is often an effective way to hold station. For powered sailing monohulls, backing into the wind and prop walk are your friends. Consider this a skill set worth acquiring for close maneuvering in marinas.

Fast vessels often weave, making it impossible for the slower vessel to predict their course and decide to either give way or stand on. For example, in a typical situation, a kayaker in open water might be moving two or three times slower than the sailing yacht. The sailing yacht, if following the wind, is constantly changing course, so the kayaker might be unsure of the yacht’s true course. The practical solution is for the sailboat to give way to the kayak. However, don’t expect a fast-moving powerboat to give a sailboat the same consideration. In general, fast-moving powerboats are a hazard to be avoided when practical, regardless of what the rules say. Because the situation is unpredictable, any course changes should be made as early as practical and be obvious; things happen too fast at the last moment.

If a vessel is weaving, is it on a defined course? To apply the Rules, you must first know what the other vessel is doing, and if that is unclear, it’s a situation of special circumstances (Rule 2). This can include water-skiers, wind surfer, kiteboarders, personal watercraft, and all inattentive operators. If you are the water-skier or wind surfer, your variable course makes you give-way in virtually all circumstances, and that applies to your interactions with other people when you are tacking randomly across the bay. The rules have little tolerance for the boater who behaves erratically.

However, don’t dismiss a vessel’s course as erratic too quickly. The turn may be part of a maneuver to avoid a collision. When tacking, or hoisting or dousing sail, your course may appear erratic, so you must keep clear of all other vessels during these situations and not create a conflict by your actions.

It is common to approach a channel at an angle, and it’s often not clear to others whether you intend to cross or to turn into the channel. In a narrow channel, the boat in the channel is the stand-on vessel (Rule 9), but the moment it exits the channel, it can become the give-way vessel in a crossing situation. If you maintain course toward the vessel that has suddenly changed status upon leaving the channel, you risk confusing the other skipper (see “Potential Collision at Ship Channel Entrances”).

The takeaway is that places where a channel ends or begins are tricky because the applicable rule changes quickly and intentions of boats are not always clear. Adjust speed to avoid potential crossing situations that do not yet exist but may develop quickly.

Rule to Remember, #8(e): If necessary to avoid collision or allow more time to assess the situation, a vessel shall slacken her speed or take all way off by stopping or reversing her means of propulsion.

SPECIAL SITUATIONS

The overtaking vessel is never the stand-on vessel, not for sail, not for a boat that is restricted in its ability to maneuver, not for any vessel, except one that is not under command (which, by definition, has no control). Remember, if you cross another vessel more than 22.5 degrees aft of the beam, you are overtaking. Thus, passing in a narrow channel is generally bad and it is 100 percent your responsibility to keep clear, no matter how slow the boat in front of you is moving.

I’ve seen this one misinterpreted by hot shots who like to sail into their slips, claiming that they are under sail, and this gives them “rights.” Nope, not in narrow channels or when overtaking.

The Rules contain some common-sense requirement for smaller boats to keep clear when operating in large ship channels.

Rules to Remember: #9(b), #13, #18(d)(i): #9(b) a vessel of less than 20 meters in length or a sailing vessel shall not impede the passage of a vessel that can safely navigate only within a narrow channel or fairway.

13: Overtaking. (a) Notwithstanding anything contained in the Rules of Part B, Sections I and II, any vessel overtaking any other shall keep out of the way of the vessel being overtaken.

18(d)(i): Any vessel other than a vessel not under command or a vessel restricted in her ability to maneuver shall, if the circumstances of the case permit, avoid impeding the safe passage of a vessel constrained by her draft, exhibiting the signals in Rule 28.

THE ISSUE OF RAM

In general, this applies to ships that are limited in maneuverability by the work they are doing, such as laying cable or dredging, but can it also apply to fishing boats, or even a sailboat that is using a drogue or sea anchor in extreme weather? We have been advised it can. During my drogue testing (see “ Using a Jordan Series Drogue for Steering ,” PS August 2017), I began to wonder who would have right of way in such a situation. My boat was restricted in its ability to maneuver, or RAM; did this make me privileged over other vessels?

When you are dragging a drogue you are not claiming you have no ability to maneuver, only that this ability is restricted. In a severe storm, it may be a life-or-death decision to cut the drogue loose, and you may still not be able to maneuver with any accuracy.

The critical factor is that you must declare your RAM or NUC status with appropriate lights or day shapes. Unlike other status that may be visually obvious—sailing vessel or commercial fishing, for example—RAM and NUC conditions are generally not obvious and must be communicated. You are only RAM or NUC if you signal surrounding vessels that you are (see “ RAM Lights for Sailboats ,” PS June 2022.) The USCG has this to say about determining RAM: The determination of whether a vessel is restricted in their ability to maneuver is at the master’s discretion. Should a master consider their vessel restricted in their ability to maneuver, the vessel shall exhibit the lights or shapes as such (Rule 27) in accordance with the technical specifications (Annex I).

Rule to Remember #39 (f): (f) The term “vessel not under command” means a vessel which, through some exceptional circumstance, is unable to maneuver as required by these Rules. She is therefore (g) restricted in her ability to maneuver, which means a vessel, from the nature of her work, is restricted in her ability to maneuver as required by these Rules and is therefore unable to keep out of the way of another vessel.

DISTRESS SIGNALS

The various lights and shapes to indicate distress are clear (Rule 37), but two deserve some special mention in this age of electronic flares and signaling devices.

Flashing lights. In the US inland Rules (not international) a bright flashing light of 50–70 flashes per minute is considered a distress signal.

Electronic flares. (See “ Distress Flares Go Electric ,” PS June 2021). Approved as electronic visual distress signaling devices (eVDSD) in 2015, electronic “flares” signal SOS (… — …) according to one of two patterns. Whether you chose to use these to replace traditional pyrotechnic flares, or to add these to your signaling tool kit is up to you. Either way, you should learn to recognize the flashing pattern.

Unlike driving a car, where blame is often settled on one party, boating collisions virtually always result in shared responsibility. You could have done something differently. You could have turned earlier, in a different direction or simply slowed down. You could have signaled.

The COLREGs guide us toward predictable maneuvering between yachts traveling in straight lines, but when faced with awkward crossing, fishing boat that is drifting or trolling multiple lines, or a paddler that may or may not know the rules, you must combine your knowledge of the rules with attentiveness, patience, and courtesy.

USCG NAVIGATION RULES www.navcen.uscg.gov/sites/default/files/pdf/navRules/navrules.pdf

STATUS OF HUMAN POWERED BOATS www.navcen.uscg.gov/navigation-rules-faqs#0.3_13

FISHING WITH TRAPS w ww.dco.uscg.mil/Portals/9/DCO%20Documents/5p/CG-5PC/CG-CVC/CVC3/publications/Safety_Digest-2008.pdf WORLD

SAILING RULES www.sailing.org/tools/documents/WorldSailingRRS20172020new-%5B24067%5D.pdf

The COLREGs do not deal directly with human powered vessels, and rules for small boats can vary depending on the jurisdiction. Compare the respect for paddle-power in Minnesota, where canoes have a long history, and in Oceanside, CA, where many small craft are banned from the harbor, and those allowed must give way.

Minnesota 6110.1200: A non-motorized watercraft has right-of-way over a motor-powered watercraft except when it is the overtaking watercraft. Motor-powered watercraft should always keep clear and pass astern of non-motorized watercraft.

Oceanside, CA. Sec. 29A.16.: . . . All human powered vessels authorized in the harbor pursuant to this subdivision (b) shall give way, yield the right of way

1. Adding an outboard changes rights of way rules for dinghies.

2. Fast-moving windsurfers and kiteboarders can present a navigation challenge. Some harbors restrict their use.

3. Kayak, or sailboat? Either way, we’d give this fellow a wide berth.

4. A prudent navigator will try to anticipate erratic steering from a single-handed sport boat, especially one that is flying an asymmetrical sail.

As described in the example below (based on an actual collision), the entrance to marked ship channels can create a potential collision risk when a privileged deep draft vessel exits the channel. Once in deep open water, a deep draft ship loses its privileged status as a vessel constrained by draft. Should another boat be entering at the time of this transition, the question of right of way can be confusing.

Figure 1. The deep-draft outbound yacht Big Red (orange track) is navigating a narrow channel. The inbound boat Little Blue (blue track) will cross the channel. Because the Little Blue is on the starboard side of Big Red (which has just exited the narrow channel) it is stand-on, but Big Red, who was the stand-on boat just seconds before, may not have time to avoid Little Blue.

Despite having right of way in the immediate moment, Little Blue should wait, because it was the give-way vessel when avoidance maneuvers should have been made, well before the actual encounter.

In the trial resulting from the actual incident, the court divided responsibility between the two vessels, ruling that the outbound boat could have slowed when it observed the situation developing. However, the court found the inbound boat was primarily responsible because it should have waited for the outbound vessel to cross.

Most of us see ourselves as cruisers, not racers. For the most part, the racing rules are a logical extension of the COLREGs, but racing is all about passing, so there are differences. In principle, these rules only apply to meetings between sailboats in races (the COLREGs govern in all meetings with a boat not engaged in the same race), but except for Rules 11 and 12, they logically apply to all meetings. These rules can be helpful even to non-racers because they offer further insight into the COLREGs and the logic behind them. Sailboats are not always privileged, and your maneuvers can make you the burdened vessel.

Rule 11 | Overlap. When Boats are on the Same Tack and Overlapped , a boat to windward shall keep clear of a leeward boat. Since racing is all about passing other boats, the rules depart from the COLREGs’ strict give-way rule (COLREGs Rule 13) for the overtaking boat. The conflict here is that the leeward boat may also be overtaking under the COLREGs (crossing from more than 22.5 degrees aft of the beam) which makes it burdened, and this rule supersedes all others in this case. Rules 12 and 17 (below) offer some clarification.

Rule 12 | On the Same Tack, Not Overlapped. When boats are on the same tack and not overlapped, a boat clear astern shall keep clear of a boat clear ahead, but only until an overlap is achieved.

Rule 17 | On the Same Tack; Proper Course. If a boat clear astern becomes overlapped within two of her hull lengths to leeward of a boat on the same tack, she shall not sail above her proper course while they remain on the same tack and overlapped within that distance, unless in doing so she promptly sails astern of the other boat. Note that “true course” can allow the leeward boat to force the windward boat to turn or tack away. This is definitely not behavior permitted under the COLREGs.

Rule 13 | Tacking. After a boat passes head to wind, she shall keep clear of other boats until she is on a close-hauled course. During that time, Rules 10, 11, and 12 do not apply. If two boats are subject to this Rule at the same time, the one to port or the one astern shall keep clear. The COLREGs takes a similar stance on tacking—while tacking you are the burdened vessel because you are not on any true course and the angle of your maneuver is not known. Any restriction in your ability to maneuver is your own doing, so don’t tack or jibe in close proximity to other boats.

Rule 15 | Acquiring Right of Way. When a boat acquires right of way, she shall initially give the other boat room to keep clear, unless she acquires right of way because of the other boat’s actions. Under COLREGs, channel ends are a common case; while in the channel a vessel is typically privileged, but when the vessel exits the channel a crossing situation can immediately make the same vessel burdened. It is the duty of the crossing vessel to give the other vessel room to keep clear.

Rule 16 | Changing Course. When a right-of-way boat changes course, she shall give the other boat room to keep clear. This is common sense, and not in conflict with the COLREGs. When you turn, a new situation exists and you are responsible for what happens during the change.

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Sometimes one has the engine running, but not in gear, in case of trouble while sailing. Is the boat then a sailing boat or a power boat ?

What you suggest is common near bridges, for example, where the wind can swirl unpredictably.

The machinery must be in use to be defined as a power-driven vessel.

The appearance of smoke or water spurting from a fitting could mean a generator is running. The presence of a sail does not mean it is a sailboat. This is why dayshapes are required, though seldom used by recreational boats.

[From COLREGS definitions] (c) The term “sailing vessel” means any vessel under sail provided that propelling machinery, if fitted, is not being used.

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Fish-Friendly Landing Nets

• By Jim Hendricks
• June 20, 2023

I have a pet peeve. Well actually, I have a lot, but one concerns landing nets. Too often I see anglers using nets with mesh measures anywhere from 1 to 2 inches across. Large mesh netting is fine if you intend to keep a fish, but it’s horrible for catch and release. I mean, really horrible.

Tail Injuries

Here’s the problem I see with large-mesh netting: The fish’s tail (aka caudal fin) gets squeezed through the mesh like Velveta through a cheese slicer. It splits and tears the tender membranes between the rays of the fin. This can affect soft dorsal and anal fins, too, inflicting multiple tears. I’ve seen the injuries too many times on released fish, and every time it makes me cringe.

Cuts and Scrapes

The netting material itself can also hurt fish. Rough nylon netting is more likely to cut and scrape fins and the sides of fish. The shape of the net is also factor, as many nets are like sacks that literally bend thrashing fish in half, pressing the fins farther through mesh, resulting in deeper tears. There’s no way for the tears to heel, and the open wounds can lead to infections that ultimately result in the slow and debilitating demise of the released fish.

Fish-Friendly Mesh

However, there is a solution, and it comes in the form of fish-friendly landing nets, aka conservation nets, from companies such Frabill and Promar. A great example is the Frabill Trophy Haul series of nets. The netting features ½-inch mesh that helps prevent tears and splits to the tail. The netting material is also rubber coated—Frabill calls it the Coated Conservation Mesh. This material is softer and less abrasive, and that reduces scrapes and cuts to fish.

Landing Pads

Nets in the Trophy Haul series also have a special shape. The net is flat on the bottom, and that helps cradle the fish rather than bend it half, especially if you avoid lifting the fish into the boat. Promar’s Premier Angler landing nets have even wider flat areas at the bottom, not to mention fine-mesh netting, to care for fish you plan to release.

The next time you’re shopping for a landing nets, stop to think about my pet peeve. Or at least think about the fish, especially if you might need to release a sub-legal-size fish or you just plan to practice catch and release. Fish-friendly landing nets are the way to go.

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Boating Rules of the Road - Navigation rules Collision Regulations - Rules of priority

• Table of Contents
• Rules of the Road - Navigation rules - Right of way

Right of way Rules for Boaters

The  Collision Regulations  stipulate that in all pleasure craft and vessels, someone  must maintain a proper lookout , at all times, for other vessels or pleasure crafts in order to  reduce the chance of a collision between two or more pleasure crafts. At all times the pleasure craft’s operator must have a clear view of the waterways that he/she is navigating on. It is up to the operator of a pleasure craft to know and apply the International Regulations for preventing collisions at sea, and the Canadian modifications upon the high seas, and in all waterways connected therein, which are navigable by vessels.

Following a collision between two boats, make certain everyone is accounted for and check for injuries. Ensure that passengers and crew members are wearing a PFD. The Small Vessel Regulations require that certain vessels carry an emergency kit. Keep the proper equipment and supplies onboard to stop hull leaks and make minor on-water repairs.

If you are involved in an accident:

• You are required to stop and give assistance to other persons involved. You must give aid to the extent you can do so without endangering yourself or your passengers.
• You are also required to give your name and address and the number of your vessel, in writing, to the owner of any property damaged in the accident.

What does it mean to be the stand-on vessel?

The stand-on vessel should maintain its course and speed. The give-away vessel, may however take action to avoid collision if it is clear that the vessel which should be keeping out of the way is not taking appropriate action.

What does it mean to be the give-way vessel?

The give-way vessel  should keep out of the way of a stand-on vessel, so far as is possible, take early and substantial action to keep well clear.

Which action should be taken when overtaking another vessel?

A vessel overtaking an other vessel shall keep out of the way of the vessel being overtaken.  When a vessel is in any doubt as to whether she is overtaking another, she shall assume that this is the case and act accordingly.

Any alteration of course and/or speed to avoid collision must be important (noticable) enough to be easily seen by another vessel observing by sight or radar;  a succession of small changes of course and/or speed, should be avoided.

Action taken to avoid collision with another vessel shall be to result in passing at a safe distance. This action will be taken in such a manner to be effective and safe, until the time that the other vessel is finally past and clear.

If necessary, a vessel shall reduce her speed to avoid collision with an other vessel.

What are the actions between two power-driven vessels approaching in a crossing situation?

When two power-driven vessels are crossing so as to involve risk of collision, the vessel which has the other on her own   starboard side   shall keep out of the way  and shall, if such are the circumstances, avoid crossing ahead of the other vessel.

The operator of a powerboat should maintain his course when   being approached on his port side   by another powerboat.

What should the operators of two powered vessels do that approach each other in a head-on situation?

In a meeting situation neither vessel is the stand-on vessel. It is generally accepted that you should alter course to starboard and pass port-to-port.

Responsibility between vessels Rules of priority

Newcomers to boating should familiarize themselves with the various types of vessels they may come across on the water to ensure they take the appropriate actions and avoid potential collisions.

When navigating, it's crucial for new boaters to understand which vessels have the right of way. It's important for all motorized boats and sailboats measuring under 20 meters in length to give way to larger, less agile vessels.  

A power-driven vessel underway shall keep out of the way of a vessel not under command.

A power-driven vessel underway shall keep out of the way of a vessel restricted in her ability to manoeuvre.

A power-driven vessel underway shall keep out of the way of a fishing boat hauling its nets.

A power-driven vessel underway shall keep out of the way of a sailboat.

A sailboat underway shall keep out of the way of:

• a vessel not under command;
• a vessel restricted in her ability to manoeuvre;
• a fishing boat hauling its nets

A fishing boat when underway shall, so far as possible, keep out of the way of:

• a vessel restricted in her ability to manoeuvre.

Make sure your boat is always operated at a safe speed to allow for quick and effective maneuvering to prevent collisions and come to a stop within a safe distance given the circumstances.

When navigating Canadian waters such as roadsteads, harbors, rivers, lakes, or inland waterways, exercise caution when passing another vessel or any work area like a dredge, tow, grounded vessel, or wreck.

Maintain a speed that won't disrupt the vessel or work being passed and adhere to any relevant Notices to Mariners or Notices to Shipping.

A general speed limit of 10 km/h within 30 meters of the shore applies to all power-driven vessels in specific regions, unless the river is narrow, or the vessel is in canals or marked channels, or a different speed limit is in effect.

Restricted Visibility

In conditions of restricted visibility such as fog, mist, rainstorms, or falling snow, vessels must navigate at a safe speed appropriate to the circumstances. Power-driven vessels should be prepared to maneuver promptly, while operators must reduce speed upon hearing fog signals, being in close proximity to another vessel, or detecting them on radar. Compliance with these rules is crucial to avoiding collisions and ensuring safe navigation.  

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Hauling Net

Hauling nets involve setting a net in a large semi circle shape, with the netting sliding smoothly over the ocean floor. The net is hauled in by the fisherman to complete a circular shape with both ends of the netting secured to the boat. Fish are trapped within the netting and removed using a brailing net, using a scooping technique.

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Acknowledgement

This project is supported by OceanWatch Australia, through funding from the Australian Government’s National Landcare program and NSW Government, Department of Primary Industries.

In-Fisherman's Esox Week 2024!

Check out special new content along with classic In-Fisherman TV episodes highlighting our celebration of pike and muskies, updated daily.

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10 Best Fishing Nets

Largely overlooked in the rush to learn new techniques, uncover fish-holding locations, and stock our boats and tackle boxes with the latest lures and gadgets, fishing nets are the extra-point kickers of the fishing game. You can do everything right to hook the fish of a lifetime and fight it boatside like a champ. But if either net or net-minder falters at the moment of truth, your well-played engagement inevitably ends as an epic fail.

For example, I'll never forget the fateful afternoon I spent hours baking under a hot July sun on Minnesota's famed Mille Lacs Lake with my father. I was about 12. The walleyes weren't biting. But finally, mercifully, my bobber went down. I set the hook on a dandy 'eye. After a short, sweet battle, my prize was at boatside. Dad deftly dipped the net under the fish and scooped it up. But when he hoisted it above the waterline, the well-seasoned mesh bag opened like a trap door and my walleye plopped back into the lake. With a flick of its tail, it was gone.

Thankfully for today's fishing faithful, netting and other components are better than ever. Each season, net-makers render a host of fine options for corralling catches great and small. Consider the following picks as you upgrade your arsenal, to make sure your endgame is as deadly as the rest of your presentation.

Bass Pro Shops Catfish Net

Beckman BT304243 Original

Beckman PT221843 Pen Net

Brodin Gallatin Ghost Series

Cabela's Fold-n Stow

EGO S2 Slider

Frabill Crankbait Net

Frabill Power Stow

L.L.Bean Katahdin

Ranger Octagon Handle Big Game Net

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Best Landing Net for Any Species

One of the most frustrating things in fishing is the loss of a fish right at the edge of the boat – gone, after you have put in all the work locating and plotting how to catch them. That nice fish literally becomes the one that got away . This misfortune can be remedied with the right landing net, a fishing net designed to make it easy to land fish , no matter your preferred species.

Good landing nets also protect the fish, aiding in the catch and release process. Coated fishing nets are gentler on a fish’s skin and enhance the success of a fish’s release back into the water. The right fishing net also protects your hands from sharp hooks and avoids snagging the treble hooks on your baits. Below we have reviewed the best landing nets, one for every type of angler and species.

5 Best Fishing Nets Compared

Choosing Your Perfect Landing Net

As you read this roundup of fishing nets, there are a few questions you will want to ask yourself that will enable you to buy the perfect landing net for how you like to fish .

What species do you usually fish for? In general, the bigger the fish, the bigger the net you will want. If you target big Pike or Muskie, going cheap on a net with a hoop size meant for Bass and Walleye is not a good idea.

For tougher fish like bass , catfish, and pike you can use rubber coated or rubber mesh nets. Trout are more sensitive than catfish or bass, so those nets have smooth webbing and make cradling the fish easier for unhooking and release.

Where do you typically fish? Fishing from a boat has different needs than from a kayak or from shore. A net for a kayak fishing should be shorter than on used from a pontoon. Also, a heavier rubber mesh net used in a bass boat is not going to work as well in a small fishing kayak where you will want more maneuverability.

10 Best Landing Nets

1. ranger nets big game octagon handle nets.

Pros : High-quality reliable nets, coming in multiple styles, with secure no twist octagon handle.

Cons : Made for larger fish like Bass and other predator fish.

If you fish tournaments for bass, or fish big water for walleye, pike, muskie, or salmon and big trout, look no further than Ranger Nets. The Big Game and Tournament Series nets are simply awesome fishing nets for their price.

Ranger Nets are not stuffed with gimmicky features that are prone to breaking as you might find on other brands. They are designed with one thing in mind and that is to net fish, trophy fish to be exact.

The handles are made from tough anodized aluminum, with an octagon handle at the yoke that ensures perfect deployment every time. The hoops are also made from 5/8” anodized aluminum tubing, reinforced at the yoke. The netting feature ¾” spacing for less water drag and knotless rubber coated nylon for fewer snags.

2. Bubba Landing Nets

Pros : Extremely well built, multiple sizes and shapes.

Cons : Expensive and only have fixed handles.

You might know Bubba from their “Bubba Blade” fillet knives, but you might not know they make all kinds of boating gear like fishing pliers, and landing nets. Like all things Bubba, the landing nets are premium pieces of gear. They are some of the toughest landing nets I’ve ever seen.

Every component is made to last. The carbon fiber handle and aluminum hoop are securely fixed into a diecast aluminum yoke. Then of course, is the famous red nonslip Bubba grip. Unlike lesser fishing nets, the grip length is generous, and there is no way it’s coming off.

For all of those great features, there are some drawbacks. Firstly, you pay a premium price for the nets, but they may well be the last ones you ever need to buy. Also, the lack of a collapsing handle and yoke make storage less convenient. If Bubba could find a way to incorporate that feature into this landing net, it would be hands down the best fishing net for the money.

3. Frabill Conservation Landing Nets

Pros : Telescoping handle, generous hoop sizes, and basket depths for worry-free netting of fish.

Cons : For the price, the build quality could be better.

The Frabill Conservation net is a great catch, pun intended, making it one of the best landing nets for bass, walleye, small redfish, speckled trout, and safe for fresh or saltwater fishing. The Frabill has a telescoping handle for that extra reach, even one-handed.

Thanks to the cam locking yoke it collapses with ease for convenient, compact storage. The net material of 100% knot-less mesh netting is gentle on the fish and the tangle-free coating is great for the angler – making it easier to de-tangle hooks from the net.

4. KastKing Folding Landing Net

Pros : A very affordable collapsing and folding fishing net, with big baskets, and hook proof mesh.

Cons : Sturdiness and durability could be better.

KastKing sells a bunch of decent fishing gear at affordable prices, and the new folding landing net is no exception. This net features a patent-pending collapsing net with a foldable hoop. Both the net hoop and handle are made from aluminum, and the yoke and folding mechanisms are made from aluminum and graphite.

The net is designed well for fishing, with a rectangular shape that makes netting fish easy. If you fish from shore or from a kayak you will like how much it extends, and how little it weighs. There is even a convenient storage bag for protecting the net during transport or over the offseason.

The bottom line, if you need a large landing net that can collapse down into a small size for storage, this is your net. If you need something sturdy and tough, look at the Ranger or one of the Cabela’s nets.

5. Frabill Trophy Haul Bearclaw

Pros : Designed for kayak fishing and one-handed landing of fish

Cons : The arm “bear claw” adds weight compared to traditional nets.

Fishing from a kayak is great fun but sitting low to the water does create some challenges, one of those being netting fish. Trying to ease a big fish towards your kayak with one arm, while trying to net it with the other, all while keeping your balance is fun. The Bearclaw net makes it easier by providing a secure forearm grip to let you focus on getting the fish in the basket.

How it works is the angler grips the yoke and the handle rests against the arm.  The hoop is rectangular with a gentle rounded leading edge. The netting basket is tapered towards the back, with a flat bottom, allowing fish to slide in with ease. Frabill put some thought into this design and the result is an optimized netting experience for kayak fishing.

6. Cabela’s Custom Landing Nets

Pros : Solid landing nets, heavy-duty tubing, rubber hook-free netting.

Cons : Might be too heavy for solo anglers.

View at: Cabela’s

The Cabela’s Custom Landing Nets have a simple and trustworthy design that you can depend on. The handle is double-walled aluminum that telescopes to 4 feet in length. It pulls out and locks in place on the yoke (made by Frabill) and collapses into the hoop for easy storage.

The no-snag rubber mesh makes it one of the best big fish landing nets. The stretchable rubber design without any rough edges is easy on fish and easy on the anglers who use a lot of hard baits with treble hooks. For solo anglers, this net may be too heavy to operate one-handed and you may want to look at the Fold and Stow model instead.

7. Cabela’s Fold N Stow

Pros : Compact and lightweight landing net for those who must store the net inside the boat.

Cons : Not as heavy-duty as other fishing nets.

Cabela’s Fold-n-Stow is a completely collapsible net making it one of the most compact and best folding landing nets possible. The handle is made of aluminum and the netting is made of a coated micro mesh. There is only the one size, with a 20” x 24” hoop, 21” deep basket, and a 36” long handle. This is a versatile size that can work for kayakers, boaters, and fly fishermen alike.

8. EGO S2 Slider

Pros : Unique net design with sliding extension handle. Comes in many sizes.

Cons : The sliding handle can get jammed with silt and sand.

At one time, the EGO S2 Slider was the gold standard for landing nets. It was even the winner of the 2010 iCAST Best of Show Award. The concept is a rugged plastic yoke with a screw-in handle. The handle is designed to slide and telescope out by pushing a release button. When people have problems, it is usually with the sliding mechanism getting stuck, or the handle unscrewing itself.

There are three sizes based on handle length – Compact (18”-36”), Medium (29”-60”), and Large (48”-108”). Hoop size and netting style vary on each size, but you can choose from rubber, PVC mesh, and coated nylon.

The Compact sized nets are great for kayak fishing and small boats. Medium nets are great all-around nets for fishing from a boat, good for panfish, bass, walleye, and more. The Large has the longest reach and largest hoops for bigger fish and taller deep-v or pontoon boats.

9. StowMaster Precision Saltwater Net

Pros : Fully collapsing design for easy storage, materials that can handle saltwater use.

Cons : The entire net is 84” long, not the handle.

The StowMaster SS84S is the best saltwater landing net, sized perfectly for targeting Redfish, Grouper, Cobia, Bonefish, and more. The net is made of aluminum tubing, with a solid yoke. The net is very strong and can handle all kinds of fish. The Stowmaster works as well in the surf as it does from the boat.

As the name implies, this saltwater fishing net collapses and folds into a compact size that can be stowed in boat compartments. You can fold the hoop in half with a push of a button, and the handle slide past the yoke to get even smaller.

10. EGO Reach Crappie Net

Pros : An extra long reach, with a perfectly sized basket for getting to panfish on light line.

Cons : Not heavy-duty, as should be expected with a lightweight, long-handled net.

You can scoop up slab crappie with ease in the EGO Reach Crappie net because it telescopes out to 8 feet and six inches and locks into position. The EGO Reach is designed with a large yet lightweight hoop (18” L and 14” W) and was specially designed to make it easier to land fish using long crappie rods on very light line. Whether you spider rig, or fish jigs and minnows, the long-handled EGO Reach net makes crappie fishing easier and more enjoyable.

11. EGO Blackwater Trout Net

Pros : Excellent design and gentle on fish. The ruler built into the netting is genius.

Cons : Short handle.

EGO Blackwater Trout is simply the best landing net for trout. Measure Net technology, a mesh measuring board built into the net, allows you to measure your sensitive trout without it ever leaving the water.

The Blackwater is made with a slip-resistant grip, a retractable Quick-Draw tether to prevent the loss of your net, and the vinyl-coated mesh bag is replaceable with easy zip on and off.

Fishing Net Features – More Than Meets the Eye

To the casual angler, a landing net is just a net on a pole. The truth is landing nets are as much a specialized piece of fishing gear as your rods and reels. Anglers should understand all the technical aspects to buy their perfect landing net.

Here are some important aspects and features that will help you decide on the best landing net for your boat fishing trips.

Landing Net Handles

The handle or tube is the first area to consider in a good fishing net.

• Handle Length – A shorter handle is needed if you are going to fight the fish next to the boat. A longer handle is needed if you will surface the fish and net away from the boat. Get longer handles for lake/boat fishing and short handles for river/stream fishing in smaller craft.
• Handle Material – Aluminum is the most common because it is light, strong, and cheap. Fiberglass is premium and extremely strong. An eight-sided anodized aluminum handle will be the most durable, offering strength & weight ratio.
• Extension – A fixed-length handle is the strongest design, but sometimes a handle that telescopes out with a push of a button can be incredibly handy.
• Storage – Do you require your net to be stored in a compartment in your boat? If yes, then you must get a net with a handle that collapses into the hoop. It is very common to have a handle with a spring button that locks into the yoke. This is a trouble-free and convenient design.

Net Mesh Types

The different types of mesh are also geared towards your target species.

• Rubber – Rubber netting is recommended for catch-and-release fishing. The rubber mesh is soft on the fish’s scales & gills and does not take the natural slime coating off the fish.
• Knotless Mesh – Micro-Mesh is lightweight and soft on fish’s scales & gills. It is recommended for all types of freshwater fishing, and for trout fishermen and those who prefer river/stream fishing.
• Nylon/Coated Nylon – Nylon is the cheapest net material, is lightweight, but is hardest on the fish. Coated nylon is billed as snag-free, but in my experience treble hooks especially will still get caught quite easily.

Mesh Size – A small micro-mesh (3/16-inch mesh grid) is recommended for a delicate fish – like a brook trout. A heavier mesh is recommended for bigger fish. For example Bass, Walleye, and Redfish.

Mesh Bag Depth – Bigger fish will need a deeper bag. However, a deeper bag will also create more drag in the water. Select a depth that will fully contain your target species and a net material that will minimize the amount your lures will get tangled in it.

Hoop – Hoop design plays a role in the efficient use of the net. For example, a slight scoop on the end of the hoop helps get the fish into the net. The width at the top of the hoop must accommodate the targeted species. An oval hoop works well for nearly all purposes.

Yoke Design – The yoke is designed to add strength to the hoop/handle without compromising the weight of the product. Folding yokes are the weakest, followed by collapsing tubes. A fixed handle and yoke is the strongest design but is least compact for storing.

Last updated 2024-09-08 at 21:54 / Affiliate Links & Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Tackle Scout

Tackle Scout is an online resource for anglers and boaters looking to catch more fish, and get more from their gear. This site is founded and maintained by real anglers, with decades of fishing and boating experience, as well as longtime members of B.A.S.S. and FLW.

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Unfortunately the recommendations don’t match many of the reviews (Frabill is an example – quality and durability). The reviews are more of an expansion of the mfg. marketing hype. Suggest compare things like quality of the material used , like the strength of the tubing used in the handles or loops, hardware quality.

I stand by my reviews. And I’ve had the same Frabill net for bass fishing for over 10 years.

Sorry to say that they don’t manufacture them the same. I was reviewing several sites looking for a decent fishing net for my bass boat.

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Home » Blog » Sail » Sailboat fishing: expert tips on fishing from a sailboat

Sailboat fishing: expert tips on fishing from a sailboat

By Author Guest Post

Posted on Last updated: November 20, 2023

Many sailors don’t realize that sailboat fishing is really quite simple and can be a sustainable (and delicious!) way to supplement their diets.

This article explains how to fish from your sailboat (and dingy) and is an edited extract from The Hunter & The Gatherer, a cookbook and provisioning guide by Catherine Lawson and David Bristow.

Catherine and David are long-time, liveaboard sailors and are currently cruising with their 10-year-old daughter on their 40ft cat, Wild One . 

If the idea of harvesting your own seafood appeals to you, we recommend checking out their book The Hunter & The Gatherer, published by Exploring Eden Media . For every copy sold, one tree is planted! Check it out or order your copy here .

If you needed any more motivation to give sailboat fishing a try, Catherine and David have included a kickass recipe for Fijian Queenfish Kokoda (a conconut, lime, and chile infused ceviche) at the end of this post.

Waterborne is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Fishing from the back of your sailboat or yacht

Our boat Wild One really pulls its weight when we sail, and it’s a rare (or rough) day on the water when we don’t have at least one hand line out.

We regularly (fingers crossed) catch all kinds of tuna and mackerel, giant trevally, and maybe a mahi mahi (dolphinfish or dorado) or a wahoo this way.

I tend to keep the lines out longer than Catherine, but as long as we wind them in before sunset, we can usually avoid snaring sharks and the delicate mission of getting them off the line without harm.

Fishing tackle and equipment

On long, leisurely sails, we’ll often detour across sandy shoals or pinnacles where large pelagics (and the seabirds that give them away) tend to hunt.

We use large hand lines secured to the stern rails with bungy loops to take the shock load when a large pelagic bites down. Ours are wrapped with overpowered 350-500 pound mono to prevent big fish from snapping the lines.

I add a heavy-duty swivel, and trolling lures are crimped on for strength and to make the system more streamlined. I never tie knots, and we rarely lose a fish and never a lure (although they do get retired after too many bites).

My favorite lures are Halco’s deep diving, red-and-white ‘Qantas’ lures, but when big pelagics are around, I swap the standard treble hooks out for large singles.

There are a few reasons I choose hand lines over boat rods.

1. Hand lines are dirt cheap and available everywhere (we often beach comb them off the high tide mark).

2. They have no moving parts to break and are very quick to wind in when retrieving a catch, although you do need a bit of strength to wrangle in big fish.

Being on a catamaran, we can run out two lines without them fouling each other. But we do run them at different distances (one 25 meters, the other 40 meters) and with lures that swim at different depths.

Catching fish by boat is by no means a certainty, but it increases our chances of reaching an anchorage with protein ready to cook.

Dispatching your fish

I can’t stress enough how important it is to kill your catch swiftly and humanely, even when underway.

If the sailing conditions become too hectic to deal with a potential catch, I feel it’s better to pull the lines in rather than catch a fish that I can’t treat properly and respectfully.

There are lots of ways to bring large pelagics on board when underway, but here’s what I do aboard Wild One .

Once gaffed and safely on board, dispatch your catch humanely and swiftly by spiking its brain.

The brain is located in the middle of the fish’s head, just behind the eye, and you will know when you’ve hit it because your fish will spasm briefly, its fins will flare for a moment, and then the fish will then go limp.

Cleaning and fileting

To bleed the fish, lay it flat and cut behind the gills with your knife facing toward the fish’s head.

Slice from top to bottom until you see blood flow, then repeat on the other side.

Submerge or rinse the fish well in salt water, or if conditions permit, drag it by its tail for a minute or two to flush and clean it ready for filleting.

Slice off your fillets (don’t wet the fish again if you can help it), and place them in a large colander over a bowl (covered with a beeswax wrap or similar) to drain and rest in the fridge.

This resting helps drain the lactic acid that builds up in large, fighting pelagic fish. I usually drain fillets overnight, and whatever doesn’t get eaten while it’s fresh is bagged, labeled, and frozen.

Some sailors abhor the idea of sending fresh fish to the freezer, but when we’re cruising, especially in remote sailing grounds, fish provide an essential source of protein, and nothing is wasted.

Those species that are prolific and sustainably caught, prepared with respect, and fully utilized to reduce wastage, can help to feed you and your family when stores are a distant memory, and on all those days when the fish aren’t biting.

Shore Fishing

Boat life can get busy, but when I do have some downtime, you’ll find me holding the end of a rod while nursing something cold at day’s end.

When we jump into the dinghy to explore a new anchorage or to head ashore, I’ll always run a few lines out in the hope of snaring a fish before we hit the beach. If we have to use our fuel, we may as well turn every dinghy run into a fishing expedition.

When trolling in the tender along reefs, sand troughs, or mangrove-fringed shorelines, I use a scaled-down version of the hand reels on board or cast an overhead bait caster rod with smaller hard body lures or soft plastics.

This rod combo is extremely accurate when trying to land a lure into a tight location, or when chasing those ever-elusive barramundis, mangrove jack, and delicious varieties of cod.

These fighters demand patience and are all excellent eating, but if things don’t go your way, the mangroves are also great places to gather a feed of oysters at low tide.

In northern Australia, queenfish and trevally are regularly caught while dinghy trolling over sandbars, off river mouths, over inshore reefs, and sometimes by rod while standing on a beach with a beer.

Spearing reef fish

We spend a lot of time cruising in the tropics where coral reefs, and the trout, snapper, jobfish, and trevally they nurture, are generally abundant.

Anytime we can get in the water is an adventure, and while we are exploring a new reef, spearfishing provides a selective way to get dinner on board.

With a long enough breath-hold and plenty of patience, spearfishing can provide us with a meal in a manner that’s sustainable and respectful to the reefs.

This is really what got me into spearfishing because I can consciously choose a fish that is of suitable size and abundant in the places we drop anchor without harming any other fish in the process.

It’s also a great skill to learn, provides an excellent workout, and is one of the most authentic ways to take a fish.

I use a Rob Allen 1200 Sniper rail gun with dual bands and a 7mm carbon steel shaft. I find that the shaft stays true and is more accurate than other guns I’ve owned.

EDITOR’s Note: Some reef fish contain a toxin that causes a food-borne illness known as Ciguatera . It causes gastrointestinal and neurological symptoms and in very rare cases can be fatal. For this reason, many cruisers avoid eating reef fish altogether.

When you have to buy fish

Sometimes the fish just aren’t biting, and the reef fish are too skittish and too small to be speared. When we face a dry spell, we revert to our vegetarian ways, tucking into tempeh, beans, eggs, and lentils.

There’s always the option of buying fish as we go, from passing fishermen who visit our anchorages or in local markets where the daily catch comes with few food miles.

But bigger centers and supermarkets challenge conscious consumers who want to know just how sustainable their dinner really is. It can be difficult (and sometimes impossible) to know where and how a fish has been caught and whether a particular species is abundant in the location where it was taken.

These questions matter. 85% of global fish stocks are fully or over-exploited, depleted, or in recovery from exploitation . Thanks to our collective, growing hunger for seafood, all ocean ecosystems, including by-catch populations, are in peril.

The bulk of the guilt can be levied at large-scale fishing operations – trawlers, longliners, and gillnetters. But even at local levels, the stripping of coral reefs and continuing use of dynamite (blast) fishing has a devastating, irreversible impact.

When a blast went off in eastern Indonesia’s Kei Islands in late 2022, we thought our rigging had snapped and the mast was coming down.

We rushed out on deck, puzzled and perplexed, only to see a boatload of fishermen working with hand nets to scoop up fish. This desperate means to a meal is short-sighted at best, and the heartbreaking destruction of the reef and its minute and complex ecosystems will haunt these island populations for decades to come.

Fish farms or ‘sea ranches’ don’t always provide a better alternative and can be incredibly wasteful. Take, for example, Australia’s southern bluefin tuna.

This critically endangered species is caught from the wild and fattened in feedlots off the South Australian coast, primarily for export to foreign markets.

The Australian Marine Conservation Society (AMCS) reports that it takes up to 12 kilograms of wild-caught fish to grow one kilogram of southern bluefin tuna .

The maths just doesn’t add up, and wild-caught fish stocks used as tuna food are jeopardized further by the release of pollution from aquaculture farms back into the sea via uneaten fishmeal, antibiotics, and concentrated fish waste .

The good news is that you can wade through the confusion by downloading the Sustainable Seafood Guide app or check your choices at goodfish.org.au . In the USA, download the Seafood Watch Consumer Guide for a list of best buys wherever you live.

Recipe from The Hunter & The Gatherer

Queenfish kokoda.

Love it or hate it, raw fish gets a lot of people excited. When you land a beautiful fish (and it doesn’t have to be tuna), or someone gifts you a couple of fresh fillets after a day at sea, ceviche is a tasty, no-fuss way to get any meal started.

This Fijian-style ceviche, known as kokoda, balances out the raw fish perfectly and packs it with flavor.

To add crunch (and stretch the dish), stir through chopped tomato, cucumber, and fresh capsicum before serving, and dish it up in coconut shells, clams or, lettuce cups. Otherwise, savor it in its virgin state, slowly.

Ingredients

• 500g (1lb) queenfish (or any firm white fish)
• 1/4 tsp sea salt
• 2 finely chopped spring onions (scallion)(or 1/2 red onion or 4-5 shallots)
• 1/3 cup finely chopped coriander (cilantro) and mint
• 1 fresh red chili, finely chopped(or 1 tsp dried crushed chili)
• 1/3 cup coconut milk
• cracked black pepper
• extra fresh coriander sprigs to serve
• Optional: add 1 roughly chopped tomato, 1 small cucumber (diced), and ½ small capsicum (bell pepper), chopped

Instructions

• Trim and rinse the fish, pat dry, and cut into small cubes.
• Place in a mixing bowl and squeeze over 1 ½ limes.
• Season with salt, and toss to combine.
• Refrigerate for 2-3 hours until the fish turns opaque.
• When ready to eat, drain the fish, add the spring onion, chopped herbs, chilli, coconut milk, a generous pinch of black pepper, and any extra vegetables, and stir well.
• Serve with lime wedges and extra coriander sprigs.

Safety note: Citrus juice does not kill bacteria or parasites that may be in the fish. Always choose either commercially-frozen fish or high-quality sushi-grade fresh fish for ceviche. Avoid cod, swordfish, monkfish, and all freshwater fish as they are highly parasitic. When in doubt ask an experienced local angler or fisherman.

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The heartbeat of fishpond, how to choose the right net | size does matter, when choosing a net - anglers should make sure to consider your target fish size..

In the past a net was just a tool for anglers to capture their quarry, but today a net is much more than just a tool to trap a fish.  We as fly fishermen have taken releasing fish unharmed and healthy back to the water to the next level; which is a great thing, but we could always do more through education.  Keeping them wet is one of the best things we can do for the fish that we all love to chase.  Being a guide in Colorado I have always taken great pride in teaching my clients about proper fish handling to ensure that the fish they just caught swims away healthy.  This first thing one should have when catching a fish is a proper net.  When choosing a net one should make sure that it is roomy enough for the fish to be comfortable and not cramped, this will also be helpful for fly removal.  Having the right net for the task at hand is equally as important, a net that is great in a drift boat like the Nomad Boat Net is probably not the best choice for the average walk wade angler.

The  Nomad Mid Length Net  is, in my opinion, one of the most versatile nets in the Nomad series for the walk wade anglers and float fisherman alike.  This is a great option for fish that are not much over the twenty-inch mark.  With it’s longer handle this net will increase your reach when that stubborn eighteen-inch brown won't cooperate. I use the Mid Length Net for guiding  Gunnison Gorge float trips and on all walk wade trips where fish won’t be much over twenty inches.

The  Nomad Mid Length Boat Net  is a great option when fish get big “pounds on inches” or you are fishing from a drift boat or a raft.  This is one of your best nets for the walk wade angler that is after double-digit fish.  This net has a mid-length handle that is not too long and won’t get in the way of your pack and other gear for your day on the water.  I use the Mid Length Boat Net exclusively on my Sight Fishing trips for hunting giants on the tailwater of the Uncompahgre River “Paco”.  I also remove the standard net bag and replace it with the Extra Deep replacement net bag for added room.

The  Nomad Boat Net  is the best option for the float fishing angler with its added reach and huge basket.  The large basket on this net gives you a big target when you need to snatch a fish out of the current quickly.  This is the best net I have found for guiding drift boat trips on the Lower Gunnison River.

Words and Photo by the big fish guy, Matt McCannel head guide at  RIGS Fly Shop  "I have fished all over the country for the last twenty-five years, and I find that every time I am out on the water, I learn something new. I enjoy teaching the art of fly fishing to people of all ages. During the winter months, I teach fly tying classes, and I am also a commercial fly tier. I feel very fortunate to be doing what I love to do, every day."

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Continue reading, fishpond travels to washington with protect our winters, one world, one tribe., fishing with a purpose | retts4risers, " do what you love to help someone else.".

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• Selecting the Right Net

What is the best net for stripers and fluke ?

You really need to have at least two different nets on your boat, one for bottom fishing and another for big trophy sized striped bass .  Not only does the size of the fish matter, but also the type of terminal tackle.  In addition it is important to choose the right net to minimize any harm to fish that will eventually be released.  Handles are also an important consideration and that selection is usually determined by the layout and freeboard of your boat.

The single biggest mistake that most boat owners make is simply buying the cheapest net from their local tackle shop.  These nets never last and often fail at the critical moment.  Good quality nets can last many seasons with little or no maintenance.

Fluke, Flounder , Blackfish, and Sea Bass Net

Many bottom fishing rigs include a a separate free swinging weight which can easily get tangled in the mesh and possibly cost you a trophy.  In addition, the larger mesh size can be damaging to the gills of smaller fish.  It is important to choose a small mesh size.  It is almost impossible to select a mesh size that is too small.

Striped Bass, School Tuna, Black Drum , and Weakfish Net

Frabill Pow’R-Lok yoke system

Extension handles

As if Frabill nets couldn’t be any better already, in the conservation series nets they have added an extending handle inside the standard one. In some cases a standard 48″ handle just isn’t enough so now you can extend your handle from 48″ to a whopping 96″! This is a great option to have especially on party boats.

When NOT to Use a Net

It is important that every boat be equipped with a Berkley hook removal tool (also known as a fish flipper or dehooker).  If you know you are going to release the fish, and can see the hook. just use the flipper to release it.  Netting a fish that is going to be released anyway causes needless wear and tear and can remove the slime coating which protects the fish.

Net Selection Videos

• Mustad Hooks vs Gamakatsu Hooks

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Best Fishing (Landing) Nets for Every Situation

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We’ve all been there. After hours of patiently scouting and casting, and a lengthy battle, you’ve finally got that trophy fish lined up next to your boat. Getting it on board should be easy. But as you reach into the water to grab it – it suddenly trashes and wriggles its way free from your hook – and out of your grasp forever!

The worst part of this tragic tale: it could easily have been prevented. A good fishing landing net significantly reduces the odds of squirrely fish squirming loose and allows you to handle them without putting your fingers or their slime coat at risk.

If you’re mostly a catch-and-release angler, then a good landing net is a must. Many nets feature coated mesh, which is non-abrasive and won’t harm the fish as you scoop it up. If you’re fishing for dinner, a landing net will ensure you won’t lose any good eaters.

Below I’ll break down some of the best fishing nets for landing all types of species as well as for different fishing styles.

Quick Answer: 7 Best Fishing Landing Nets

Best overall: ego s2 slider fishing net 29 – 60”, best catch and release net: frabill conservation series landing net, budget pick: wakeman collapsible and foldable net 56”, best kayak fishing net: yakattack leverage landing net, best fly fishing/trout net: fishpond nomad emerger net, best pier fishing net: frabill bridge/pier net, best long handle/pontoon fishing net: ego s2 slider net 48 – 108”, landing net types.

Fish landing nets vary widely in terms of length, hoop size, mesh and handle materials, and netting design. They’re typically tailored for a specific fish species, as well as for a particular fishing style.

Nets designed for catch-and-release fishing will typically feature rubber netting or a rubber coating over the mesh – ensuring the fish won’t suffer any scrapes or abrasions from the net material. Nets made for keepers are often made from knotless nylon mesh – preventing treble hooks (and the fish) from getting tangled up in the netting.

When picking out a fishing net, you’ll need to ask yourself two questions:

1) Where do you typically fish from?

The right type of net will depend on your fishing style and watercraft. If you’re fishing from a kayak or canoe – where you’re closer to the water – then a shorter/lighter net will work well. On the other hand, if you’re fishing from a pontoon or small fishing boat you’ll need a net with a longer or telescopic handle to reach the water.

Wade and fly fishermen need a light and compact net that can easily clip onto their vest or waders – but is capable of handling fish in strong current. A floating handle is a major plus here.

2) What species are you normally targeting?

It’s important to match your landing net to the species you’re fishing for. Different fish species require slightly different net designs as well as netting dimensions. Net manufacturers often make the same net in multiple sizes, so you can easily find the right size for panfish, bass, walleye , pike, salmon and more.

Certain fish tend to be pretty finicky and will squirm their way out of a shallower net if you’re not careful. Trout , in particular, tend to be highly sensitive and can go ballistic when they feel the mesh of your netting. Nets designed for these fish often feature deeper pockets as well as softer webbing that makes scooping up the fish easier.

If you’re looking for the one net that blows all others clean out of the water, then this is the net for you. While it costs a bit more than other landing nets, it’s rock-solid construction and feature-rich design more than the justify the extra cost.

The 29” model features a telescopic handle that extends out from 29-inches out to 60-inches when fully extended. The S2 utilizes a convenient push-button for extending and retracting the handle, giving you real-time control over the handle length, and ensuring you won’t have to drop your rod. It’s the perfect size for boat and shore fishing, allowing you to reach down and net fish without getting yourself soaked.

As far as the netting material, several different mesh types are available as options, depending on your intended use. Clear rubber, nylon, PVC coated nylon, rubber-coated nylon, lightweight clear nylon, and a PVC Coated measuring net are all on offer. A deep net option is also available.

Additionally, the net features a modular attachment system, which means you can swap out the net and use the handle for over 30 attachments including gaff hooks, other net types, boat hooks, deck mops, release knives and more. The net also floats in case you happen to drop it in the water!

Key Features

• Length: Extends from 29” to 60”
• Hoop size: 17”, 19”, 22” and 24”
• Netting Material: Clear rubber, nylon, PVC coated nylon, rubber-coated nylon, lightweight clear nylon, and PVC Coated measuring net
• Can handle fish up to 30 lbs
• Easy-to-operate push-button telescopic handle
• Modular platform allows for interchangeable head attachments

• THE ONE THAT GOT AWAY - Never again miss out on the one that got away. The EGO S2 is the most versatile fishing net on the market
• MORE THAN A NET: The innovative modular platform allows you to remove the net and use interchangeable attachments. 30+ Attachments
• QUALITY MEETS VERSATILITY - Comes with revolutionary S2 Slider technology, with a simple push or pull you control the length of the net. Never put your rod down again.
• FEATURES - Amazing Grip, extends 29 to 60, Interchange modular head, multiple mesh types, Up to 30 lbs. of fish
• THE ANYWHERE NET - Great to use on any boat, kayak, canoe, or jet ski and in any streams, rivers, ponds and ocean

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This well-made landing net from the fishing pros at Frabill is about as good as it gets when it comes to catch-and-release fishing. Designed to handle a wide variety of fish including bass, walleye, trout, and redfish – the 100% knotless tangle-free micromesh netting completely eliminates injuries from sharp knots. It also stops hooks from getting tangled in the netting, and won’t harm the fish’s slime coat.

The flat linear bottom supports the fish’s weight and reduces the likelihood of a fish rolling and thrashing. A sturdy 1” thick extendable aluminum handle allows you to adjust the length from 24” to 48”, while a comfortable rubber grip on the end provides a sure hold. The net is perfectly sized for fishing from a bass boat, but maybe a little bulky for kayak fishing.

The Cam-Lok handle extension mechanism is another strong point. It’s ultra-smooth, and has no wiggle or give in it at all. The hoop measures 20” x 23”, making it large enough to handle most freshwater fish as well as smaller saltwater species.

• Length: Extends from 24” to 48”
• Hoop size: 20” x 23”
• Netting Material: Micromesh
• Knotless micromesh net is ideal for catch-and-release
• Netting design prevents hooks from getting tangled
• Safe for saltwater use

• Frabill | Trusted By Anglers Since 1938
• Saltwater safe | Ideal for bass, walleye, speckled trout, redfish | PowR Lok Yoke System | Patented design slides handle through for convenient storage | Corrosion-proof stainless steel hardware | Cam-Lock telescoping handle
• MeshGuard Hoop | Secures netting inside rim to protect edges | Internal net support extends lifespan | Matte black finish for net shy fish
• Hoop Size: 20 x 23 Telescoping Handle Length: 24-48 Net Depth: 16

Rugged, lightweight, and well-engineered, this aluminum handled net and rubber net is an excellent do-it-all fish landing net – especially at this price point. Its tangle-free rubber netting is ideal for catch-and-release fishing, virtually eliminating tangles while being gentle on the fish. The 20-inch wide net opening makes it great for hauling in a large variety of fish species, as well as other critters like clams, crayfish, and crab.

The aluminum handle extends from 35-inches when retracted up to 56” when fully extended. This length is perfect for a typical bass boat but also works well for larger kayaks and canoes.

One of the net’s strong points is its soft and durable rubber mesh. The rubber prevents treble hooks from getting tangled, as well as softly cradling the fish when you’re lifting it out of the water. The netting bottom is flat and fairly deep at 17-inches, which helps when you’re dealing with larger fish – especially ones that would get spooked by a smaller net.

• Length: Extends from 35” to 56”
• Hoop size: 20”
• Netting Material: Rubber
• Rugged and lightweight aluminum construction
• Wide and deep net opening will handle a wide variety of fish

• RETRACTABLE DESIGN - Able to extend to a length of 56 inches, the handle of this fishing net retracts to 35 inches, making it highly portable and easy to carry wherever its needed. The fold-up fish net minimizes storage space for use on small boats.
• DURABLE MATERIALS - Corrosion-resistant aluminum provides longevity and allows this fishing gear to be used for freshwater and saltwater fishing. The nylon net is strong and resistant to tangles for hassle-free use.
• VERSATILE USE - This fishing net can land many varieties of fish and is suitable for all kinds of fishing.
• PRODUCT DETAILS - Materials: Nylon, Corrosion-Resistant Aluminum. Dimensions: Net: (L) 20 x (W) 19 x (H) 17; Handle: (L) 35-56. Color: Black, Gold. Retractable.
• Net Opening 20 inch (L) x 19 inch (W) Net Depth 17 inches
• Retracted Length 35 inches

Prices pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on [relevant Amazon Site(s), as applicable] at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.

When it comes to kayak fishing gear, you can’t go wrong with YakAttack – they make some of the best kayak angling equipment on the market and this net is no exception. It’s purposefully designed with the kayaker in mind, utilizing a hinged design that allows the handle to fold alongside the net for compact storage. The handle is built to be stored in either a tube or a flush-mounted rod holder.

The forearm grip increases your stability and leverage as you’re netting a fish, allowing you to handle large fish with the same effort as much smaller specimens.  Full rubber netting protects the fish and also prevents snags – making getting fish out of the water and into your kayak a breeze.

The hoop measures 12” x 20”, which may seem small, but the leverage and forearm grip give you increased accuracy – and make netting large fish easy. On top of that, YakAttack manufacturers in the USA and back up their products with a lifetime warranty. Rest assured you’re getting a product the manufacturer stands behind!

• Length: 56” when extended
• Hoop size: 12” x 20”
• Compact design is ideal for kayak and canoe fishing
• High leverage handle and forearm grip increase power and accuracy
• Hinged handle folds up for compact storage and transport

• EASY STORAGE: Hinged design allows the handle to fold alongside the net for compact and easy stowage which makes the Leverage Landing Net the best net when kayak fishing.
• ACCURACY: The forearm grip means you dont need a giant hoop to net your next big fish and makes the Leverage Landing Net an essential piece of kayak fishing gear.
• DIMENSIONS: 12 X 20 Hoop; 56 Overall Length.
• STABILITY & CONTROL: Revolutionary forearm grip offers unparalleled stability and control.
• COMPACT & LIGHT: Full rubber net along with a foam covered extension on the handle allows for the net to be stored in a tube style or flush mount rod holder.

When it comes to fly fishing landing nets, you’ll generally get what you pay for. You might think a net is just a net – how much of a difference does a high-end net make? Well, the answer might surprise you.

Fishpond’s Nomad Emerger net is a huge improvement over those cheap wood-framed nets you often see fly fishermen use. Weighing just a hair under 1 pound, its carbon fiber and fiberglass composite construction result in a feather-light and ultra-durable frame that can handle just about anything you can throw at it.

The RiverKoat finish provides UV protection and incredible grip when wet, while the clear rubber netting won’t spook fish as you net them. The hoop measures 10” x 19”, making it big enough to handle nearly anything with the possible exception of giant steelhead. With a 32” overall length, it’s the perfect size to hang off the back of a vest or tuck behind a fishing sling or pack .

The clear rubber netting features a uniform and tight hole spacing, ensuring smaller fish can’t sneak their way out of the 12” deep bag. If you happen to drop the net in the water – no worries – it floats like a cork!

• Length: 32”
• Hoop size: 10” x 19”
• Feather-light and durable composite carbon fiber/fiberglass
• Highly Buoyant
• Perfect for wading and fly fishing

• Carbon Fiber, DuPont Kevlar fiber, Fiberglas Composite
• Waterproof/weatherproof & buoyant
• Black Rubber Bag
• 32” Length - 9.8”W x 18.8”L Head - Bag depth of 12
• Weight with rubber bag: 430g or .95lb

If you’re fishing from an elevated position like a bridge, pier, or canal, then regular landing nets won’t be of much use to you. You’ll need a net that can extend far below you, and is strong enough to haul up fish that are too big and heavy for your line to handle.

The net is made from a 36” wide heavy-duty steel hoop with a 36” deep black ply netting attached. It comes pre-rigged with 50 feet of sturdy rope – allowing you to easily access the water from an elevated position.

The net is on the larger side and is capable of hauling some serious weight. One user reported pulling up an 80 to 90 pound ray up to a pier!

One minor modification you can make to enhance the net’s functionality is to attach a small sinker to the bottom of the net. This will help keep the net in an upright position and keep the netting open.

View on:  [su_button url=”https://www.amazon.com/Frabill-Bridge-Pier-Net-36-Inch/dp/B00A1ZEUZ0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=coastalside-20&linkId=161648aee288bf11a4c7dc12b4fc7f5e&language=en_US” target=”blank” style=”flat” background=”#d93f2c” size=”8″ radius=”5″ text_shadow=”0px 0px 0px #000000″]Amazon[/su_button]

• Hoop size: 36” diameter
• Netting Material: 1 ½” ply mesh
• Ideal for fishing from piers, bridges, and canals
• Heavy-duty steel hoop and strong mesh netting
• 50-foot rope comes rigged

If you fish from a pontoon boat or a boat with tall gunwales, you’ll need a little extra reach to get down to the water and net a fish. With a 108” maximum reach, the EGO S2 is the perfect solution for this situation. It’s essentially the same design as the medium length S2 reviewed above, but with an extra 4 feet of reach.

Like its smaller cousin, this net comes with a wide variety of net materials as well as three different hoop sizes (17”, 19” and 22”). The sliding handle allows you to rapidly adjust the length by depressing the push button, making rapid deployment a breeze.

The load capacity changes as you extend the handle. Its 30 lbs. when retracted, 20 lbs. when partially extended, and 12 lbs. when fully extended. Twisting the net attachment point unscrews it from the handle – and allows you to add attachments and transform the net into a gaff, deck mop, line cutter, and 30+ other attachments.

• Length: Extends from 48” to 108”
• Hoop size: 17”, 19” or 22”
• Netting Material: Clear rubber, PVC coated mesh, rubber mesh, deep rubber mesh, and PVC Coated mesh
• The ideal length for pontoon and other larger boats
• Comes in a wide variety of net materials and hoop sizes

• FEATURES - Amazing Grip, extends 48 to 108, Interchange modular head, multiple mesh types, Up to 30 lbs. of fish

How to pick the right fish landing net

Picking the right fishing net for your needs can be a little tricky. With so many sizes, models, netting types, and construction materials, you’ll need to consider a few things when choosing a net.

A net’s handle is one of the most aspects to consider when picking one out. Your fishing style will largely determine what type of handle to choose.

Long-handled nets are ideal for fishing from larger boats and slightly elevated positions, where you’ll need extra reach to get to the water. Think pontoon boats, fishing boats with higher gunwales, and shore fishing where you’re in an elevated position.

Medium length handles are ideal for bass boats, canoes, and larger kayaks. This size allows you to net fish near the side of your craft, without taking up to much space in your boat. Nets with extendable or collapsing handles work particularly well for smaller craft where space is at a premium.

Short handled nets are great for shore fishing, wading, and fly fishing. When you’re carrying the net on your person, you’ll want one that’s short, light and easy to carry. You’ll also want one that’s easy to deploy and easily attaches to your vest or fishing pack.

Other features to look for in a handle are flotation, corrosion resistance, and modular attachments.

A net’s mesh is another important feature to consider. Different netting materials work best for different species and fishing styles.

Rubber mesh is one of the most popular netting materials and works well for a variety of scenarios – especially for catch-and-release fishing. Rubber is very gentle on fish’s slime coats and prevents hooks from getting entangled in the netting. It’s also highly durable and won’t get caught up or ensnared like knotted nets sometimes can.

Rubber landing nets can either be 100 percent rubber or rubberized coated nylon. Both work well, but pure rubber tends to be a bit more durable than coated nets.

Nylon mesh used to be the standard for most fishing nets, but with the popularity of rubber nets, it’s fallen out of favor to a large extent. Knotless nylon can still work well when you’re fishing for keepers, but it’s a poor choice for catch-and-release fishing.

A mesh’s size plays an important role in its function. As you can imagine, smaller fish require a smaller mesh size than larger ones. The last thing you want is a small trout wiggling out of your net because the netting is too large!

Netting depth is another important consideration when choosing a landing net. Deep landing nets are ideal for larger fish, as well as fish that tend to flop around while you’re netting them.

The species you’re targeting will generally dictate what sized hoop you’ll need. The hoop’s width will need to be wide enough to accommodate the length of your target fish.

Some common hoop sizes are 17”, 20” and 23”. Generally, going with a larger net width will allow you to net fish with greater speed and accuracy, and will result in less lost fish.

As mentioned previously, the type of fish you’re going after has a major impact on the type of net you’ll need.

If you’re fishing in saltwater, you’ll want to make sure that the net is saltwater safe, and won’t corrode away. Make sure to bring a good fishing gaff as well if you’re targeting larger species.

If you’re catch-and-release fishing, make sure to go with a rubber or coated net that won’t harm the fish as your handling it.

Collapsible landing nets are a good option for many anglers, as they give you the versatility to change handle lengths as the situation dictates. They’re also great for fishing from smaller watercraft, where you need to conserve space as much as possible.

While landing nets are great for getting fish in your boat, there are several other tools you can use with good effect. A good fish lip gripper can work well for this task – and also works great for taking photos with your catch. Once you’ve got the fish landed, a fish hook remover enables you to extract deeply embedded hooks without getting your hands cut up.

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Markus Whitlock

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New Research

With Ropes and Nets, Fishing Fleets Contribute Significantly to Microplastic Pollution

Synthetic ropes release ‘substantial amount’ of plastic particles into the sea during each use, according to new research

David Kindy

Correspondent

In a fish-eat-fish world, microplastic is a perplexing problem. These puny plastic particles are consumed by small fish, which are then eaten by larger fish—passing the pollutant up the food chain, eventually to humans.

Scientists know that many microplastics come from the massive modern use of plastic packaging, which breaks down into the small specks swallowed at sea. One source not previously considered is synthetic rope used by many maritime vessels, including fishing boats.

Turns out, it contributes a “substantial amount of microplastic contamination” to the environment, report researchers with the International Marine Litter Research Unit at University of Plymouth in England. Published in the peer-reviewed journal Science of the Total Environment , a new study shows that aging ropes and nets made from plastics are a significant source of this pollution, reports Ben Coxworth of New Atlas .

Researchers discovered that new and one-year-old synthetic ropes can release around 20 microplastic fragments for every yard hauled in the ocean—and that number climbs exponentially with older equipment. Two-year-old ropes emit 720 fragments per yard while ten-year-old tethers can shed 760 units per yard, reports Technology Networks .

According to the report, fishing vessels use around 220 yards of rope during a typical haul. Based on a conservative 50-yard line, researchers estimate that new rope can release up to 2,000 microplastic fragments each time while old rope could reach levels of 40,000 units.

“For centuries, most everyday items including rope and netting used in the maritime industry was produced using natural resources,” says study co-author Richard Thompson, a professor at the University of Plymouth, in a statement. “However, the large-scale increase in plastic production since the 1950s has resulted in plastics progressively replacing their natural counterparts. The durability of plastic has however resulted in a major environmental challenge once items reach the end of their lifetime or, as in this study, when they shed microplastics.”

For the study, researchers conducted lab-based simulations and field experiments. Estimates were based on hauling a 5.5-pound weight on a 50-yard rope. Lead scientist Imogen Napper, a postdoctoral researcher at the university, cautioned that these figures are considerably less than what would be used on real fishing vessels.

“Most maritime activities would be hauling much heavier loads, creating more friction and potentially more fragments,” she says in a statement. “It highlights the pressing need for standards on rope maintenance, replacement and recycling in the maritime industry. However, it also shows the importance of continued innovation in synthetic rope design with the specific aim to reduce microplastic emissions.”

Researchers used the United Kingdom fishing fleet of about 4,500 active vessels as a basis for this study. Based on that total, they estimate that 326 million to 17 billion microplastic pieces could be entering the ocean annually from just this source, according to a  University of Plymouth press release .

“Greater appreciation of the issues within wider society are starting to make a difference,” Thompson concludes in the statement. “However, this study emphasizes a previously unquantified yet substantive source of microplastics and reinforces the level of collaboration required to achieve lasting and positive change.”

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David Kindy is a former daily correspondent for  Smithsonian . He is also a journalist, freelance writer and book reviewer who lives in Plymouth, Massachusetts. He writes about history, culture and other topics for Air & Space , Military History , World War II , Vietnam , Aviation History , Providence Journal and other publications and websites.

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6 Advantages of Small Pontoon Boats for Private Ponds

Owning a private pond is like having your own slice of paradise. But to really make the most of it, you need the right gear. Enter the small pontoon boat – your ticket to endless pond fun. Let’s dive into why these little boats are the best thing to hit private ponds since lily pads.

Small Pontoon Boats are Affordable

Let’s face it, boats can be expensive. But mini and small pontoon boats? They're the budget-friendly heroes of the boating world. These boats won't drain your bank account, and they’re super cheap to maintain. Less fuel, fewer parts to break – what’s not to love? 

Pond King has a Size and Model to Fit Everyone’s Needs

At Pond King, we manufacture several models of all-aluminum, welded mini and small pontoon fishing boats. From a 7’ one-person boat up to a 16’6” boat that’ll fit the whole crew, we’ve got the perfect small fishing boat for everyone’s budget and plan of use. 

If fishing by yourself is your idea of a perfect outing, check out the Pond King Rebel . If it’s just you and a buddy (human or 4-legged friend), and you’re only on a small pond, the Champ or Sport might be the ticket. Headed to the lake, but also have a pond where you like to fish? The Pro is big enough for lakes, but small enough for ponds. Need a boat that’ll fit you and all the grandkids? The Pond King Ultra has room for everybody. There’s a reason we call it the “Mini-van of Small Pontoon Boats”. 

Ease of Storage and Transport

Worried about where you’re going to park your new toy? No sweat. Small pontoon boats are like the compact cars of the boating world – since they’re all aluminum, they’re easy to store and lightweight and easy to move. They fit snugly in sheds, garages, or even on a trailer in your driveway. And when you want to take it to the pond, just hitch it up to your car and go. No need for a monster truck or a massive boat trailer. It’s as easy as pie. 

Leave Your Small Pontoon Boat on the Pond Year Round

Better yet, if you have the luxury of being able to leave your boat on the water year round, the Pond King pontoon fishing boats are made for just that! Tie them up to your dock, or beach them on land, and they’ll be ready when you are. Because of the flat deck and all-aluminum construction, you don’t have to worry about any parts rusting in the weather, or the boat filling up with rain while you’re gone. It’ll be ready when you are!

Small Pontoon Boats Offer Versatility for Various Activities

Fishing? Check. Leisure cruising? Check. Floating picnic? Double check. Small pontoon boats are the Swiss Army knives of the water world. 

They’re perfect for fishing, offering a comfortable, stable platform where you can catch the big one without tipping over. I can’t tell you how many times I hear from new customers: “I can’t fish anymore because I can’t get in and out of my Jon boat.” Or, “I have bad knees or a bad back, and I can’t sit in the Jon boat anymore.” Or, “My wife says I can’t go fishing anymore because I keep falling out of my boat!” (Yes, sadly I’ve heard this one more than once!) If this sounds like you, then a small pontoon boat is calling your name!

Not into fishing and just want a relaxing cruise for you and the wife over a bottle of wine? We’ve got options for that too! The versatility is endless – whatever floats your boat!

Environmentally Friendly Options

If you live on a shared lake that has horsepower restrictions, or you want to keep your private pond pristine and the fish happy, mini pontoon boats have got your back. Many models can be operated with just an electric trolling motor that is easy on the environment and your ears. 

These eco-friendly boats glide quietly through the water, so you won’t disturb the local wildlife or your neighbors’ afternoon nap. Going green has never been this much fun!

Small Pontoon Boats are Extremely Stable and Safe

Safety first, fun second – or maybe it’s a tie. We always recommend following these boating safety tips , but small pontoon boats are designed with safety in mind. With wide platforms and optional higher handrails to keep everyone on board, they’re stable and safe. 

Small pontoon boats are perfect for families with kids or pets who like to test the waters – and for the fishermen I mentioned earlier who keep falling out of their Jon boats! You won’t have to worry about tipping over or unexpected swims in mini pontoon boats. 

Peace of mind on the water? Check and check.

Easy Maintenance and Durability

Who wants to spend all their time fixing a boat? Not you. Small pontoon boats are tough cookies, built to last with minimal upkeep. They’re made from high-quality materials that can handle a bit of rough and tumble. Cleaning is a breeze – a quick wash and you’re good to go.

Follow a few simple maintenance tips throughout the season like covering the seats when not in use and making sure your trolling motor is tilted up and out of the water (You don’t want those seals to go bad!), and your boat will be in tip-top shape for generations to come. All you have to do is make sure the batteries are charged! More fun, less fuss.

Let us Help Build your Perfect Boat

Ready to make a splash? You can build out your perfect boat on our website , or give us a call . A live person answers the phone every time, and we’re happy to help walk you through all of the models and options. Each boat is custom built for you depending on the options you choose. Your new boat and private pond adventures await! We can’t wait to hear from you. 

See y’all Down at the Pond!

Tags: Down at the Pond , Built from Scratch

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