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16-foot Scow-Style Boat-What is It?
- Thread starter philwsailz
- Start date May 2, 2012
- Forums for All Owners
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14-foot or 15-foot Scow-Style Boat-What is It? Bought this locally tonight. Free-standing unstayed 1-part aluminum mast like a Laser. Slip-on sail like Laser too. Mahogany removable centerboard and rudder like Sunfish. Aluminum tiller like Starcraft Skylark. Vinyl logo on the diagonal across the bow says "EXPRESS MACH V" To me it looks like an AMF by the logo and stripe but internet search comes up empty. Anyone know the builder? Pics or links? I will know more when I get the title but digging now to see what I can find.
Attachments
Nice garage! Neat looking boat too. Hope you plan to get wet.
finding41 said: Nice garage! Neat looking boat too. Hope you plan to get wet. Click to expand
Fast? I think it'll look more like a stone that someone skiped across the water. I doubt dad will be inclined to release control for a very long time. Enjoy. Ray
If this boat is one single layup of 'plastic' (not 'true fiberglass') and built like it was done in a rotary vacuum mold and it has NO deck to hull joint .... Then my best guess is that its an 'early' Johnson "J Sailor", predecessor to the Johnson J Scow, which evolved into the MC Scow. If it is a J Sailor, its a rare boat. Johnson Boat Works, (White Bear Boat Works) the original and most prolific scow designer/builder had many of such prototype boats being built in the 50s through the late 60s, until the scow classes became fixed ... the 16 footers: M16, the MC, and the pointy nosed X boat. J. O. Johnson was the original (1896) designer and builder of 'sailing scows'. One of JOJohnson's earliest (1897) scow designs, the 38 ft. "Minnezitka":
RichH said: If this boat is one single layup of 'plastic' (not 'true fiberglass') and built like it was done in a rotary vacuum mold and it has NO deck to hull joint .... Then my best guess is that its an 'early' Johnson "J Sailor", predecessor to the Johnson J Scow, which evolved into the MC Scow. If it is a J Sailor, its a rare boat. Johnson Boat Works, (White Bear Boat Works) the original and most prolific scow designer/builder had many of such prototype boats being built in the 50s through the late 60s, until the scow classes became fixed ... the 16 footers: M16, the MC, and the pointy nosed X boat. J. O. Johnson was the original (1896) designer and builder of 'sailing scows'. One of JOJohnson's earliest (1897) scow designs, the 38 ft. "Minnezitka": Click to expand
Here are a few more images. As I study the rig further, it is not a simple Sunfish setup! cunningham, boom vang, mid-boom sheeting... I might have to invest in a more simple lateen rig for junior to start with. Details: Stepping it off, my "foot-is-a-foot" tells me it is a 14' boat or 15' boat but not a 16. Definitely a planing hull, slightly blunt at the front, with a small start of a keel, but the exit at the transom is ruler flat. Flat going well forward too. Beefy loooking keel trunk, seems well built in a precision sort of way. The deck to cockpit transition is a small radius bend to a 90 degree cockpit wall; not a graceful arch like on a Melges. There is an access/inspection port just aft of the spray rails. Foam has beem pumped into the bow and it appears factory. Not a ton of it though. Mainsheet is trimmed with a harken mainsheet setup; not a simple tug rope as found on other small boats. The rudder is hung in castings, and they seem well designed. The drain plug is missing, and it appears to just have been some simple arrangement that was shoved into a drilled hole. I will be ordering a proper screw-in drain assembly and a new cockpit auto-bailer today. I hate to tell you guys what I gave for the boat, but I didn't haggle with the seller. 'Gave him asking price. I am pleased with the purchase. Here are the pics. Any guesses or insight, please feel free to share!
Going to be entertaining to sail, Phil.. that is a neat looking boat.. I wouldn't change the rig.. ! Kinda interesting/distinctive that it has a vee entry instead of the normal scow taper..
kloudie1 said: Going to be entertaining to sail, Phil.. that is a neat looking boat.. I wouldn't change the rig.. ! Kinda interesting/distinctive that it has a vee entry instead of the normal scow taper.. Click to expand
I know your hull is not the plastic/Styrofoam stuff.. but I wonder if they might be related?? This post from Sailnet back in 2009.. W e bought one in November and I have not been able to find one single reference to this sailboat on the web. Not a photo. Not even on Snark forums. She's fun to sail. She's basically styrofoam encased in what is becoming brittle plastic. Not sure how many more seasons she's got left. She's from the 70's and I bought her from her original owners son. 14' long maybe 4' beam, possibly 4.5' She closely resembles a scow, like a plastic Melges MC but 14', but not as pretty, and looks nothing at all like the other snarks I have found online. Hank on main sail, no jib. She takes off like a shot with a breeze and the quickest way to get her on her side with her mast touching the water is to clamp down her main sheet Trust me on this one, I have proven it. heheh
kloudie1 said: I know your hull is not the plastic/Styrofoam stuff.. but I wonder if they might be related?? This post from Sailnet back in 2009.. W e bought one in November and I have not been able to find one single reference to this sailboat on the web. Not a photo. Not even on Snark forums. She's fun to sail. She's basically styrofoam encased in what is becoming brittle plastic. Not sure how many more seasons she's got left. She's from the 70's and I bought her from her original owners son. 14' long maybe 4' beam, possibly 4.5' She closely resembles a scow, like a plastic Melges MC but 14', but not as pretty, and looks nothing at all like the other snarks I have found online. Hank on main sail, no jib. She takes off like a shot with a breeze and the quickest way to get her on her side with her mast touching the water is to clamp down her main sheet Trust me on this one, I have proven it. heheh Click to expand
JohnShannon
Meyer boats Super Snark Mach 5 ?? Just a guess
philwsailz said: This is driving me nuts.... I gotta get to work. From a distance, if one were to ask me now what it is, I would tell them someone took a Butterfly, an MC Scow, a Sunfish, and a Laser and threw them in a bag and shook. This boat fell out. Scow hull, (Butterfly, MC) borrowing a little pointy nose, mahogany underwater appendages, (Sunfish) with no standing rigging and a sail that slides on mast with a sock, (Laser). Click to expand
Here is the logo on the battened main:
I have a 15' Mistral that I cannot find 1 single thing on the internet on. They're famous for windsurfers but the boats have not been in production for about 20 years. It has similar lines to yours but very low profiled. I'm terrified of capsizing incase I lose the rudder or daggerboard to Davy Jones. Very fun and very fast tho!
Flyboy69 said: I have a 15' Mistral that I cannot find 1 single thing on the internet on. They're famous for windsurfers but the boats have not been in production for about 20 years. It has similar lines to yours but very low profiled. I'm terrified of capsizing incase I lose the rudder or daggerboard to Davy Jones. Very fun and very fast tho! Click to expand
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North American M Scow Class Organization
Class contact information.
Click below
Class Email
Class Website
One-Design Class Type: Dinghy
Was this boat built to be sailed by youth or adults? Both
Approximately how many class members do you have? 50
Photo Credit:LYC Newsletter
Photo Credit: LYC Newsletter
Photo Credit:
About North American M Scow Class Organization
The M-16 is a two-person boat with a jib and mainsail, perfect for 2 moderately-sized people weighing a total of 240-310 lbs. The boat has all the sail-handling adjustments necessary for a modern sloop. It has a true scow hull design (with double rudder and two adjustable lee-boards) that makes her very fast and lively.
Boats Produced:
Class boat builder(s):
Approximately how many boats are in the USA/North America?
Where is your One-Design class typically sailed in the USA? List regions of the country:
New Jersey and Mid West. (Also Canada)
Does this class have a spinnaker or gennaker? No
How many people sail as a crew including the helm? 2
Ideal combined weight of range of crew: 275
Boat Designed in 1950
Length (feet/inches): 16′
Beam: 6′
Weight of rigged boat without sails: 440
Draft: 2′ 11′
Mast Height: 22′
Back to One-Design Central
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Mailing Address: PO Box 983, Granby, CO 80446
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M-16 SCOW TUNING GUIDE
Knowledge is power. We see this in every sport throughout the world. Racing sailboats is much different from the other sporting events. Sailing requires tuning for different wind and water conditions. Many of these tuning adjustments are very small, yet critical.
We have outlined for your information tuning information for many different boats that we race on a regular basis. The measurements achieved have been tested through countless hours on the water in a variety of conditions. What is truly unique with this booklet is the fact that we have simplified the tuning process for all of these classes in order to make the process easy for our customers. You will be able to achieve newfound speed in your class. These measurements coupled with the fastest one-design sails in the world will give you the knowledge for speed. In sailboat racing this is a combination for power and speed!
North Sails will continue to bring you the very best in sailing service and technology. Additional knowledge can be learned from the North Smart Book. Our objective is to allow you to set the pace in your racing class.
0 – 5 Knots
Mast Rake: 24′ 7″
Sidestays: Just loose enough to let mast rotate.
Cunningham: Leave wrinkles in luff.
Vang: None.
Traveler: Leave on center line.
Boards: Full down.
Blocks: Set for 45 degrees rotation of mast.
Jib Leads: 4″ back from front of cockpit.
Jib Luff: Leave wrinkles in jib for fullness.
Trim: Ease main sheet so that upper batten is parallel to the boom. Allow loose trim on jib so that upper batten twists off.
5 – 15 Knots
Mast rake: 24′ 6″
Sidestays: Tight.
Cunningham: Remove most wrinkles when becoming overpowered.
Vang: As soon as boat is hard to hold down, tighten vang and work the mainsheet in the puffs to keep the boat relatively flat.
Traveler: Center line.
Jib Leads: 4 1/2″ back from front of cockpit.
Jib Luff: Tighten to remove wrinkles, but not any tighter.
Trim Main: Harder as wind increases to keep the upper batten parallel to boom.
Trim Jib: Generally harder with increased wind, but careful trim is necessary to help the skipper steer properly. Do not allow the top batten of jib to curl inward.
15 Knots and UP
Mast rake: 24′ 5″
Stays: Very tight.
Cunningham: Remove all wrinkles.
Vang: Hard. Ease your mainsail in large puffs to keep the boat on its lines.
Traveler: Down to rudder posts (18″).
Boards: Up 2″.
Jib leads: 5 1/2″ back from edge of the cockpit.
Jib luff: Tighten down hard.
Trim: Very hard trim on the main, but easing with any puffs to keep the boat on its lines. The jib will have to be eased or trimmed in order to steer the bow around the waves.
Racing Techniques
The first objective here is to get plenty of heel on the boat so the windward rudder is just out of the water. This will account for less surface area in the water and will make the boat go faster. The skipper and crew must sit very still on the boat so there is no disruption of wind in the sails. The skipper must steer smoothly, not pushing the rudders across the boat. Adjustments in steering and trim must be smooth. Downwind the crew weight should be together and slightly forward. If your combined weight is over 290 pounds you should be sitting forward downwind in all conditions. Here the skipper must build up speed and then head the boat down, when the boat starts to slow again, the skipper should head up and gain speed again. This process must be continued the whole downwind leg.
These are optimum winds for the M-16 scow. The boat performs best with smooth steering and consistent crew work. The angle of heel should be flatter now. The windward rudder should be skimming the water. Once you have two on the high side hiking the rudder should be 3/4 of the way in the water. Crew weight should be together with crew hiking at an angle back towards the skipper. In choppy conditions both should shift back slightly. Downwind the crew weight should be placed together and on the windward side if there is enough wind. This however, will only be effective if you lean out and heel the boat. Weight again should be forward. With the leaning out of the crew the boat will not nose dive. Just lean the boat, steer down and increase your momentum for the next set of waves.
The main thing in this amount of wind is keeping the boat on its lines and not letting it stall out in the waves. If this happens this increases your chance of getting a big puff and having it tip you over. This is because your speed is not up to where it should be for the wind velocity. The crew should have the jib sheet in hand so if this does happen a simple ease of the jib sheet will allow the boat to head up and stay on its lines. The skipper must constantly be working the mainsheet so the boat stays flat. Easing in the puffs and a trim back in with the lulls will give exceptional speed. Your boom vang should be very tight so the mainsail does not get fuller when you ease the sheet. With this process and hiking hard, you can be a very competitive boat regardless of your combined weight.
All these generalizations are norms and averages that have proven fast over many years. Some experimentation by your part may be necessary to fine tune your particular rig and sailing style.
Good luck with your new sails and please feel free to call us with any questions you may have.
Your North Sails are constructed out of the best materials on the market today. We make sure of this by testing every roll of cloth we use. Through proper care and maintenance your sails will give you the performance you have come to expect from a North Sail.
The most important factor for a long life for your sails is to watch them for signs of wear and tear in high load and chafe areas. Be sure to wash the sails off with fresh water and dry the sails thoroughly before storing. A dry, mild climate is best. Excessive heart can cause problems with the sails due to the possibility of shrinkage. It is best to roll the mainsail and jib.
When hoisting and lowering the sail try to minimize the amount of creasing or wrinkling of the sail. Every time the sail gains a crease the cloth breaks down that much faster. Always have someone contain the leech and luff during these procedures.
The battens can be left in the sail without any problems. Be sure to roll the sail down the leech so that the battens will not twist. This could cause damage to the battens.
When rolling the jib keep the battens perpendicular to the leech. Pay special attention to the battens and batten pockets for wear and tear.
The spinnaker is fairly straight forward. Be sure to repair all tears and pulled stitches. Folding the sail when storing is best.
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| Boat Name | M Scow M16 ( m-scow ) | |
| Manufacturer | Larson | |
| Hull Type | Board Boat | |
| LOA | 16'0" | (4.88m) |
| Beam | 5'8" | (1.73m) |
| Weight | 420 | (190.89kg) |
| Ballast | (kg) | |
| Keel Type | centerboard | |
| Berths | ||
| Draft Up | (m) | |
| Draft Down | (m) | |
| Year Start | ||
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| Number Made | ||
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| Shortypen ID | 361 | |
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1968 Melges M16 scow
1968 melges m16.
- Make: Melges
- Type: Day Sailer
- Location: Bloomingdale, New Jersey, United States
Description
Recently restored 1968 Melges M16 Scow. New, fiberglass encapsulated, sitka spruce hollow mast. Hull faired and refinished with Interlux one-part polyurethane. New tiller handles. All new running rigging, stainless steel standing rigging in good shape. Two main sails and one jib all in fair condition. This design has two bilge boards instead of the customary single centerboard, and twin rudders. New retractable outboard bracket also available but never installed. New mooring cover.
Trailer is in fair shape with new bunk boards, carpet, wheels, tongue jack and winch cable.
Sold as-is, no title for trailer or boat. Will furnish bill-of-sale.
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Melges m16 classic NEED MAINSAIL
- Add to quote
Hi all, I'm new to the forum. Have acquired a new to me m16. Thinking its 1960s model. Will post pics soon. Rigging and hull are in great shape but missing the mainsail. Has a jib in good shape though. Have contacted Melges but no answer back yet. Thinking about used mainsail. Just want to get it on the water before dropping any real money into it. See how she does then assess the revamp project. Might try to strip it down to wood and refinish... Anywho, anyone know where I can find a used set of sails? Im in GA but thinking shipping shouldn't be too big of a deal. Thanks in advance! Chris Jackson [email protected] 404-217-0734
Forums - MC Sailing Association
Here's the dimensions of the M16 Scow Mainsail: Luff 20.75ft Foot 10.33ft Leech 22.25ft Head 0.50ft Comments UG 4'2", MG 7', LG 9'1", battens from top to bottom 30", 36", 36", 30", 3 auxiliary battens 12" max 6" headboard Both sails on the M16 are cut a bit different than most other boats. The mainsail should be arranged so that the sail is a 'bit' flattish (less overall draft) and with the maximum position of draft occurring a bit forward of 'normal'. The major difference is that the leading edges (luff) are cut so that these luffs are 'well rounded' (considerable curvature near the luffs) so that the boat doesn't become 'squirrely' (difficult to to keep a straight line course when 'beating' when planing at high speed). Catamaran sails and other planing hull boats are usually also cut similar .. so you might be able to find a used sail that was originally built for a catamaran, etc. The mainsail for the M16 has 4 normal battens + 3 small auxiliary battens 'between' the the 4 'normal' battens. Without these 3 small 'auxiliary' battens installed, the M16 mainsail will quickly start to flutter between the 'normal' battens, the aux. battens help to prolong the life of the sail and 'support' the increasingly permanently stretched sailcloth between the 4 normal battens. The reason for all this is you 'steer' an M16 by 1. a combination of increased mainsheet tension - causing the aft end of the mainsail to 'cup-up' a bit which 'forces' an increase in the overall amount of draft, which forces the boat to 'head-up' a bit - ... and 2. delicate use of the rudders for minor correction. ----------- Be aware that only ONE bilgeboard is 'down' when sailing. The bilgeboards aren't parallel to one another and are set at an angle from one another. So if both boards are down there will be a lot of 'drag' and the M16 can/will then heel-over significantly. FWIW - Also, the mast on the M16 'rotates', even that the mast is connected to the boat with rigging wire. This puts a LOT of strain on the rigging ... so always check out that rigging wire and swage connections on a routine basis where it connects to the mast, as the rigging can 'wear out' quite fast and then break ... resulting in the mast 'surprisingly' going overboard. --------------- Id suggest that you go to the Inland Yacht Sailing Association - www.ILYA.org . Look up the M16 class sailing association and try to get a used sail from someone racing an M16 that is changing to newer sails. https://www.ilya.org/class-m-scow/m-scow.html When buying a used mainsail for an M16, the FIRST question is "how much is the leech 'stretched out' between the main battens and are the auxiliary battens still able to control the leech flutter? !!! Hope this helps.
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M16-Scow Sailboat Parts & Equipment
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Category archives: m-16.
Everything you ever wanted to know about the M16 Scow.
Tweaking the M16 Bilge Slots
Several friends are interested in single-handing the M16 scow in 2011. Most of the modifications to accomplish this are straightforward, like running control lines aft so they are within reach. But one task was a brain teaser: making the bilge boards swing easier within the slots. Continue reading Tweaking the M16 Bilge Slots →
Final Sailing Weekend: 2010
We knew the season was drawing to a close, so we were grateful the weekend before Thanksgiving when temps crept into the 50s and the sun came out to warm our shoulders. Winds were barely tickling the tree tops on Saturday, which was a perfect opportunity to splash the M-16. This great little boat had been sitting in the back yard since July 2009 when we took possession of an I-20 and devoted our sailing time to learning the ropes on that boat. So, this day sail felt like a reunion of sorts with our old friend, the M-16.
As part of the “celebration,” we had just acquired some new old sails from Sail La Vie in White Bear Lake, MN., so we were eager to see how the wind would like them. The main is a Bowers, still stiff and crinkly. The jib: a Melges with lots of telltales. In light winds that day, they filled with a nice shape, not too much pocket; the wind seemed to stick to them and the boat fairly jumped to a good speed on the 3-4 mph breeze.
These are really nice sails. We tacked and gybed around the estuary just in front of the docks on Daingerfield Island. I forgot how much I like this club racer.
I made notes on some improvements for the coming year: cleats for adjustable hiking straps, lighter jib sheets, better jib downhaul. It would be nice to run the boom vang back to the helm, but that can wait. The boards are a bit sticky in the bilge slots, so this winter we will remove them and check to make sure they are straight. That splash rail could use some varnish!
After we hoisted the boat, we rolled the sails (nice!) and gave the hull a good cleaning. With a little tweaking, this rig will be ready for races in the spring.
On Sunday, we dropped the I-20 known as Mr. Whistlebritches into the water and tacked through the channel to the open river. Variable winds kept us on the Potomac for 6 hours, but with warming sun, we did not mind. We took turns eating lunch from a thermos of soup. That, apples, and taking turns at the helm, seemed to evaporate the hours. The low light at this time of year is really lovely on the water.
M-16 Specifications
| Length | 16 feet |
| Beam | 5.8 feet |
| Hull | Fiberglass |
| Hull weight | 440 lbs. |
| Crew | 2 |
| Main | 108 sq. feet |
| Jib | 39 sq. feet |
| Spar | Aluminum |
Racing Scows on the Potomac River
| |
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1976 Johnson Boat Works M16 Scow
Seller's DescriptionThis is a former racing sailboat that was used on Lake Bde Maka Ska before being sold and kept on Lake Hubert for the last 20 years. It has been the perfect boat to learn technique from and I hope to sell it to someone who is equally passionate about sailing. The only item needed to sail this is a shroud replacement as it is somewhat frayed from a storm. Equipment: This sailboat comes with full rigging. There is also an additional main sail and two jib sails that I am willing to sell for an additional price. Rig and SailsAuxilary power, accomodations, calculations. The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more. Classic hull speed formula: Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL Sail Area / Displacement RatioA measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more. SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3
Ballast / Displacement RatioA measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize. Ballast / Displacement * 100 Displacement / Length RatioA measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more. D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
Comfort RatioThis ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more. Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )
Capsize Screening FormulaThis formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more. CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64) John O. Johnson was the founder of Johnson Boat works (1897) and was an early innovator in scow design on the Great Lakes. Also called the CUB. Most often sailed/raced by younger sailors (under 16). Main and jib only. This listing is presented by SailboatListings.com . Visit their website for more information or to contact the seller. View on SailboatListings.com Embed this page on your own website by copying and pasting this code.
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M16 Scow Sailing Dinghy M16 Scow sailing dinghy This M16 is a 16 foot sloop (single mast with mainsail and jib). It is a solid and relatively easy to sail dinghy. It is an excellent craft for family crews and younger sailors alike. The M16 is perfect for 2 moderately sized people to race or pleasure sail. The boat has all the sail-handling adjustments of a modern sloop and a scow hull design that makes her very fast and lively. The boat was originally designed by Melges Boat Works but over the years, there have been several builders, including: Melges, Larson, Bay Boats, Pegal, Gill, Bowland, Tanzer, and Johnson.
Length : 16ft Beam : 5ft 8 Weight : 440lb Sail Area : 147sq ft M16 Scow Sailing Association |
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Since 1999, all new M-16's have been built using the MC SCOW hull and deck molds and now shares other rigging, such as a single rudder, with the MC SCOW. The main sheet traveller has been done away with and the mast no longer rotates. Sail Area Main: 108 sq.ft. Jib: 39 sq.ft.
The M Scow is a recreational sailboat, built predominantly of fiberglass, with wood trim.It has a fractional sloop rig with tapered or untapered aluminum or wooden spars. The hull is a reverse sheer scow design, with dual internally-mounted rudders controlled by a tiller and a dual retractable bilgeboards.It displaces 440 lb (200 kg). [1] [2]The boat has a draft of 2.67 ft (0.81 m) with a ...
M-16 Scow is a 16′ 0″ / 4.9 m monohull sailboat designed by Johnson/Melges Boat Works and built by Tanzer Industries Ltd., Windward Boatworks, and Melges Performance Sailboats starting in 1950. ... Since 1999, all new M-16's have been built using the MC SCOW hull and deck molds and now shares other rigging, such as a single rudder, with ...
Johnson Boat Works, (White Bear Boat Works) the original and most prolific scow designer/builder had many of such prototype boats being built in the 50s through the late 60s, until the scow classes became fixed ... the 16 footers: M16, the MC, and the pointy nosed X boat. J. O. Johnson was the original (1896) designer and builder of 'sailing ...
In 1974 (actually late 1973), Bob Parks and his sidekick Ed came out of Forester to Johnson Boat Works, and started laying up the glass hulls on-site in White Bear Lake. Chatting with him in 2010 (as we were laying up the new I-20 hull), he said he couldn't believe how much money he was making…$6.50 per hour.
About North American M Scow Class Organization. The M-16 is a two-person boat with a jib and mainsail, perfect for 2 moderately-sized people weighing a total of 240-310 lbs. The boat has all the sail-handling adjustments necessary for a modern sloop. It has a true scow hull design (with double rudder and two adjustable lee-boards) that makes ...
North American M-Scow Association. The original 2 sailor scow, the M16 scow is solid and relatively easy to sail. With over 20 M16's on Grand Lake, this is an excellent craft for family crews and younger sailors alike. Featuring a 16 foot length and a width of just under 6 feet, the boat is easy to sail and easy to fall in love with!
SAIL AREA: Main: 108 sq. feet: Jib: 39 sq. feet: Spar: Aluminum: ... July 13, 2015 at 8:58 pm. I bought a 1974 M16 Melges last year and am in the process of totally rebuilding her. Does anyone have any pictures of the hull bottom inside and out so I can use them for reference in hull shape? ... 1988 Johnson J Scow: Sold; Maggie and Suzy-ADOPTED ...
5 - 15 Knots. These are optimum winds for the M-16 scow. The boat performs best with smooth steering and consistent crew work. The angle of heel should be flatter now. The windward rudder should be skimming the water. Once you have two on the high side hiking the rudder should be 3/4 of the way in the water.
M16 Sail Setup. March 4, 2011 Uffdah! This tutorial shows how to raise the sails on the M16. ... 1988 Johnson J Scow: Sold; Maggie and Suzy-ADOPTED! Inland20 Cherry Blossom Regatta-2020: CANCELED; Ewing Wins Rehoboth Regatta; Recent Comments. Uffdah! on M20 Tuning Guide (vintage)
Boat Name: M Scow M16 ( m-scow ) Manufacturer: Larson: Hull Type: Board Boat: LOA: 16'0" (4.88m) Beam: 5'8" (1.73m) Weight: 420 (190.89kg) Ballast (kg) Keel Type: centerboard: Berths: Draft Up (m) Draft Down (m) Year Start: ... Comments About This Boat ...
The M16 class data is now found @ North American M-Scow Association.... lot of hints and tips for set up, sail shaping, etc. (although I disagree with most of their advice for full drafted mainsail for in 0-5 kts. of wind speed.I prefer FLAT for 0-5kts, in just about any boat. Has to do with separation stalls. I won a lot of 'pewter' with the M16 in my day.)
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Recently restored 1968 Melges M16 Scow. New, fiberglass encapsulated, sitka spruce hollow mast. Hull faired and refinished with Interlux one-part polyurethane. New tiller handles. All new running rigging, stainless steel standing rigging in good shape. ... Sailboat 1982 Johnson M16 scow and trailer Make: Johnson Boat Works Model: 1982 Year: 1982
Looks like most of the rigging and hardware is present. But the only way to know for sure is to set it all up and go thru it, bit by bit. I don't know the specifics of M16s; it looks like a rotating mast. So find out the specifics of what that mast step is supposed to look like and how it works.
Here's the dimensions of the M16 Scow Mainsail: Luff 20.75ft Foot 10.33ft Leech 22.25ft Head 0.50ft ... The mainsail should be arranged so that the sail is a 'bit' flattish (less overall draft) and with the maximum position of draft occurring a bit forward of 'normal'. The major difference is that the leading edges (luff) are cut so that these ...
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Tweaking the M16 Bilge Slots. February 6, 2011 Uffdah! Several friends are interested in single-handing the M16 scow in 2011. Most of the modifications to accomplish this are straightforward, like running control lines aft so they are within reach. But one task was a brain teaser: making the bilge boards swing easier within the slots.
I recently came across a Melges M-16 scow for sale - it's priced high ($2000 USD) but does appear to be in good shape. Note: this is an M-16, not an MC scow. From what I've read, the M-16 has the same hull but a smaller mainsail along with a jib (the MC is a single sail). It doesn't appear that Melges makes the M-16 anymore - the MC is what ...
It has a hull type of Scow Twin Cbrd. and LOA is 4.88. Its sail area/displacement ratio 40.71. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by undefined, runs on undefined. M-16 SCOW has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about M-16 SCOW and decide if it is a fit ...
Trailer custom fitted to this scow. Several small repairs already made to the hull and one small crack above the water line to be repaired. This is a thrilling boat to sail - things happen quickly - hardly enough time to set your drink down - but not a lot of room for extra crew. Johnson M-16 Scow, 16', 1980, Storm Lake, Iowa, yacht sale ...
The higher a boat's D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more. Formula. D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³ D: Displacement of the boat in pounds. LWL: Waterline length in feet
M16 Scow sailing dinghy. This M16 is a 16 foot sloop (single mast with mainsail and jib). It is a solid and relatively easy to sail dinghy. It is an excellent craft for family crews and younger sailors alike. The M16 is perfect for 2 moderately sized people to race or pleasure sail. The boat has all the sail-handling adjustments of a modern ...