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Boat: VandeStadt IOR 40' - Insatiable | designs. , clean, strip? and hull - time (how much, and cost of labour), materials, and facility rental Painting the hull can be quite a big and expensive job... potentially thousands of bucks. To start off with, at least, Unless the paint is in really terrible condition I'd suggest giving it a thorough clean, then a cut and polish and a wax. Below the waterline, a full repaint is also a big and expensive job. Again, I'd be getting a haul out and inspecting before launching into anything too major. It may be sufficient to just give the existing anti-foul a sand a nd a re-coat (ask the owner what anti-foul paint he used, so you can use the same or compatible). deisel 3.0 - 3 years old and only 31 hours. The owners said they start it up once a month or so. Is there anything I need to do to ensure it is running in top form after sitting so much? diesels are pretty robust. With low hours and occasional start up, chances are you don't need to do much. For peace of mind, however, you could get a marine to the and run his professional eye over the . That shouldn't cost much.. he will probably replace the filters and change the . It might be worth asking him to check the engine mounts and the alignement with the shaft. lines around hull may need replacing. Insepct the safety lines. Any broken strands or rust, its probably worth replacing them. This shouldn't be an expensive job, and any mast rigger will be able to give you a quote. Specifiy 1x19 wire, AISI 316 grade, uncoated. - serviceable but starting to age. How much to replace. Most people would plan on replacing standing rigging every 8-10 years, I guess, others are happy to go to 15 years . Some companies will insist on replacement at 10 years, if you want your mast to be covered by your policy. I don't know how prices are where you are, but I'd guess it will cost around $2500-$3000 to replace all standing rigging on a boat your size. Again, I inspect carefully (or pay a rigger to inspect and go with their recommendation. In fact, if you are planning to repaint the mast, it is cheaper and easier to repace the rigging while the mast is out. Don't forget - it is just as important to replace the turnbuckles / rigging screws as it is to replace the wire. . May need painting. Because aluminium self-protects with an oxide coating, the need to paint is really largely cosmetic. If you do plan to re-paint, the cost will depend very much on how much of the prep you are prepared to do yourself. If you pull out all the halyards (run small diameter "mouse" lines in, so you can pull them back in afterwards), remove the fittings and spreaders, sand off all the old paint, etc. the cost will be less. It will still be an expensive exercise though... etch primer, high build undercoat and top coat! Get 2 or 3 quotes. N.B. If you have the mast out, it is well worth (a) replacing any in the mast (steaming light, mashead light, mashead aerial, etc). (c) It is also worth considering replacing the mashead lights and steaming lights... removing and replacing these is such a pain in the butt with the mast in the boat. (c) also check all the sheaves for the , etc and replace if necessary. a spool and cutting bits off. Different lines need different diameters / strengths, etc. It is also a good idea to have as many different colours as possible... you do not want all your lines to look exactly the same. Make an inventory of the different ropes on the boat, recording the sizes and the condition. Replace the ones that really need it, then your way through, replacing others in the coming months / years. If you go to your local , you will probably pay more per foot than if you look around on eBay or on-line shops. You are going to be paying out a lot of on other big-ticket jobs. Live with the cushions for now and replace when some of the other more vital expensive jobs are out of the way. cushions for sleeping berths (v berth/settees/single aft berth) could use updating. You will probably end up doing inside the boat... painting / varnishing, etc. It is not, in my opinion, woth replacing upholstery until you are done with that sort of work. Maybe consider replacing the cushion in the berth that you will sleep in, but the rest can wait. A temporary seal will be fine in the short term. If the windows are at all crazed looking or have any cracks, you may wish to replace. This, however, is a fairly big and fiddly job (although not particularly expensive), so if you can fix the leak (Sikaflex 291 or similar), leave the windows alone for now. . It may have come from there (or maybe somewhere else). The boat is not sailed very much. Its not a massive pool of water and the survey should flesh this out. However, could this be coming from the original leak in the mast boot, and if so is this an easy or costly? It is not at all unusual to get water in the boat down the mast. Even if the mast boot seal is perfect, water will enter the mast through the top of the mast or through exit boxes. If you get regular rain, expect to have to up the odd bucket of water out of the bilge compartments near the mast (or install a small and float switch). . How difficult (and how much) would it cost to put in one on this type of boat? Without seeing the head , it is hard to say. However, it shouldn't be a difficult exercise to install a holding tank. (currently only 12 gallons) and water (currently only 18 gallons). There doesn't appear to be many places to add additional (maybe a water bladder under the rear aft berth?). Can anyone suggest how I might be able to do this and how much it may cost? Without seeing the boat it is difficult to guess. In the short term, jerry jugs for extra fuel and water stored wherever you can find space (i.e. in the lazarette lockers) may be a reasonable option. If you do go for extra tankage, try to keep the tanks near the middle of the boat... putting extra weight in the ends of the boat is not good. In my opinion, if putting in extra tanks, it is worth going with (we got 2 x new 15 gallon tanks in 316 stainless, custom-made to suit the shape of the hull where they fitted, with fittings and inspection/access , for about $300 each) 13. There is no hot water. What is an appropriate, good, yet economical system to do this upgrade, and how much to budget? The most common way to get how water is via an engine ... this takes heat from your engine system. This is great if you run your engine a lot. The alternatives are on-demand gas ... efficient, but (a) relatively risky, and gas is not particularly , or ... 12v is very hungry. For me, if / when we put hot water in our boat, we will go for a combination that includes an engine heat-exchanger and a short power (240v or 110v) for in . You probably don't need to request specifics. The should know way more than you do about and should know exactly what to look for. Do not use any suggested by the seller. Ask around your friends or ask at your local yacht clubs / / chandleries for recommendations. Expect to pay several hundred dollars for a survey. Keep your survey because the chances are that your company will request a survey. Also, there is no in the head. How much do you people miss showing on a boat once you pull out of the marina - do you all actually use your onboard showers a lot, or is it a pain in the ass to use it, clean and maintain it and you avoid using it onboard and seek other methods of showering anyways? shower can be a simple and effective way to get hot showers. We have a above the head area, so we hang the shower off the pole, with the open, have a nice hot shower then sponge out the bilge after. One day I'll get around to putting a little in... My #1 piece of ... enjoy using your boat. There are 1,000,000 things you could fix, to make the boat perfect, but if the boat is floating now its usable now! |
02-12-2012, 17:18 | |
located at fisherman's wharf. I would strongly caution you to be prepared to spend serious to make it & more than just a . That is all it's good for in it's present condition. I won't get into the specifics, but an unbiased survey will verify & inform what you need to know. Don't get me wrong, if you have the cash to spend for a complete , this could become a beautiful boat. Otherwise, it's not worth anywhere near the 15K asking . Best of luck! | |
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This from 'SPB' who worked at the Peterson Design office at the time: "The PETERSON 34 was different approach to the IOR rule. Less rule influence in the stern sections. Designed to be the next class down from the One Tonners (sometimes jokingly referred to as a 7/8 Tonner)." Some boats to this same design were built in Argentina.
Peterson 34. 2015 June 1. By David Liscio. This fast, tough racer-cruiser is well suited for offshore racing. American yacht designer Doug Peterson gained the attention of the world's most competitive sailors when he unveiled the one tonner Ganbare in 1973. The 35-foot sloop was innovative below the waterline, and it was praised for its looks ...
1981 Peterson 34 OD. Just listed again (we sold it to the present owner in 1999). The finest example of the famous Peterson 34 OD. This is hull number 92, the last one made. This boat has never been seriously raced, just used as a family daysailer and cruiser. This is only the second owner, and boat is ready to sail with lots of upgrades ...
Peterson 34 is a classic monohull sailboat designed by Doug Peterson and built by Plastrend / Composite Technologies between 1976 and 1981. Learn about its dimensions, rig, sails, accommodations, and see photos and listings of boats for sale.
34' Peterson 34. Year. Length. Beam. Draft. Location. Price. 1979. 34' 11' 6' Ohio $ Description: Solid freshwater legacy racing/cruiser for sale. Good condition with working cruising sails and good running rigging. ... Peterson Sailboats Peterson 34s Ohio Petersons. Featured Sailboats: Home. Register & Post. View All Sailboats. Search. Avoid ...
The Peterson 34. Doug Peterson, one of the most successful yacht designers of his era ... The boat performed so well on the race course that the cruiser part of the mix has apparently been overlooked by many. At least ninety-two boats were built between 1976 and 1981 (there may have been additional Peterson 34 hulls completed as late as 1985 ...
The Peterson 34 is a 33.92ft masthead sloop designed by Doug Peterson and built in fiberglass by Plastrend / Composite Technologies between 1976 and 1981. 91 units have been built. The Peterson 34 is a moderate weight sailboat which is a good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited ...
PETERSON 34 Sailboat Data. Hull Type: Fin w/spade rudder Rigging Type: Masthead Sloop LOA: 33.92 ft / 10.34 m LWL: 28.25 ft / 8.61 m S.A. (reported): 565.00 ft² / 52.49 m² Beam: 11.25 ft / 3.43 m Displacement: 10,800.00 lb / 4,899 kg Ballast: 5,100.00 lb / 2,313 kg Max Draft: 6.25 ft / 1.91 m Construction: FG Ballast Type: Lead First Built: 1976 Last Built: 1981 # Built: 91 Builder: Island ...
"The C&C 36 and the Peterson 34 are the finest true production racing boats on the market and it's hard to call the Peterson a true production boat." That is the summarizing statement of a former owner of a C&C 36 who now owns a Peterson 34 and who campaigned his C&C 36 to more victories than any other C&C 36 owner on the Atlantic seaboard.
The Peterson 34 went into production at Texas-based Island Yachts/Composite Technologies, and 92 were built until production ceased in 1981. Composite Technologies, established by boat builder Andy Green in Corpus Christi, Texas, was acquired sometime around 1976 by boat builder and rigger Marion Hayes. Hayes renamed the company Island Yacht ...
"Salty" - The Classic Peterson 34. "The Peterson 34 is a thoroughbred vessel with comfort and turn of speed that can only be found in designs by Doug Peters ... and substantial ballast give the boat both speed and handling ability. An amazing yacht with an interior set off by solid hardwood floors, 92 were built between 1976 and 1981 in League ...
SailNet Archive Discussion starter. 87689 posts · Joined 1999. #1 · Feb 8, 2004. We are currently looking at a Peterson 34. I''ve never heard of this boat before and have only stumbled across it as we were looking at another boat. It appear to be a well kept version, although a survey should tell us more about the actual condition of the boat ...
View the broad range of Peterson 34 for sale in your area on offer in your area, review the detailed information about each vessel, compare prices, and uncover the best Peterson 34 deals 1980 Peterson 34 for sale
Peterson preowned sailboats for sale by owner. Peterson used sailboats for sale by owner. Home. Register & Post. View All Sailboats. Search. Avoid Fraud. ... 35' Sadler Yachts Sadler 34 New York City, New York Asking $19,900. 27' Catalina Catalina 27 Erie, Pennsylvania Asking $5,000. 25.75' Schock Harbor 25 Gilford, New Hampshire
The Peterson 34 has been built with different keel alternatives. Unknown keel type. The boat can only enter major marinas as the draft is about 2.13 - 2.23 meter (6.99 - 7.29 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below. Fin keel. The Peterson 34 is equipped with a fin keel. The fin keel is the most common keel and provides splendid ...
The boat serves as a perfect blend of a race boat and a full cruising interior. 1977, Peterson 34 sailing yacht MAGEWIND. Peterson 34. This fast, tough racer-cruiser is well suited for offshore racing. American yacht designer Doug Peterson gained the attention of the world's most competitive sailors when he unveiled the one tonner Ganbare in ...
Peterson preowned sailboats for sale by owner. Peterson used sailboats for sale by owner. Home. Register & Post. View All Sailboats. Search. ... 34' Beam: 11' Draft: 6' Year: 1979: Type: racer/cruiser: Hull: fiberglass monohull: Engine: 1 diesel inboard; Location: Berea, Ohio. Sailboat Added 26-Mar-2024 More Details: Featured Sailboats (all ...
Join Date: Feb 2012. Posts: 32. 1979 34' Peterson sloop - thoughts and budget confirmation. Hello everyone, I'm new to this whole sailing scene. I've been researching things for the last year and a half and have done some dinghy lessons, some power squadron courses, and have my PCOC. I've got lots more still to learn obviously but I feel like I ...
Douglas Blair Peterson (July 25, 1945 - June 26, 2017) was an American yacht designer. Beginning with the One Tonner Ganbare in 1973, Peterson's designs have pioneered many innovations in racing and cruising yachts After nearly winning the 1973 International One Ton Cup, Doug Peterson stated in an interview: "I started putting boats down on paper when I was 10, and have never wanted to ...
This was the last Doug Peterson 34 to pop out of the mold at Island Yacht Corp. It was built out by Nicholson and various contractors and launched late in 1999. It is the highly-desired 'TALL-RIG' model. LOA 33ft 11in. Beam 11ft 3in. Draft 6ft 3in. Ballast 5,100lbs. Displacement 11,700. Everything is nearly BRAND NEW on this boat.
Douglas Blair Peterson (July 25, 1945 - June 26, 2017) was an American yacht designer. Beginning with the One Tonner Ganbare in 1973, Peterson's designs have pioneered many innovations in racing and cruising yachts After nearly winning the 1973 International One Ton Cup, Doug Peterson stated in an interview: "I started putting boats down ...
1979 Peterson 34, "Striker". LOA 33' 11". Beam 11' 3". Draft 6' 3". Displacement 10,800 Pounds. Striker is a 34' fiberglass, sloop rigged, sailboat. Aluminum mast, spreader and boom. Stainless steel rod standing rigging with bronze and stainless turnbuckles and fittings. Stainless steel bow and stern pulpit, stainless steel stanchions with ...