sailboat teak deck maintenance

Everything You Need to Know About Your Boat's Teak Decking

Sep 24, 2021

There is a lot to love about teak.

Golden brown, long grain, fresh-cut teak bestows an unquestionable aesthetic elegance to any boat deck. But boat owners don’t just love teak for its looks.

TOUGHNESS AND DURABILITY

Teak is a naturally water-resistant wood from southeast Asia which has been hailed in its ability to beat many wood alternatives (like mahogany and pine) in terms of toughness and durability.

An abundance of silica in teak makes it so tough that it is known to quickly blunt the tools of expert craftsmen. Bad news for craftsmen, good news for boat owners.

Teak can withstand any weather it cruises through, and the same high silica content that dulls a tool’s edge bestows a non-skid surface that provides necessary traction on wet decks.

Teak’s high oil content also forestalls shrinking, expanding, and cracking, helping well-maintained teak decks last up to 40 years before replacement beckons.

HOW TO MAINTAIN YOUR TEAK

Here’s how to best maintain teak decking on your yacht, without too much extra effort: 

Embrace Teak’s Color Changes

As teak is exposed to weather, it naturally takes on a silver-gray patina. But some boat owners prefer to luxuriate in the sun-kissed gold brown of fresh-cut teak.

Maintaining this hue long-term means using harsh brightening agents and committing to a regimen of extensive scrubbing, two things guaranteed to shorten the lifespan of your teak deck to fifteen years or less. 

You can lengthen your deck’s lifespan by falling in love with the silver patina it prefers and updating accents on your boat to match.

Cleaning Teak

Though teak’s grain is hard, the soft fibers between grains are easily damaged by hard scrubbing or too-strong cleaners.

To clean your teak deck, simply rinse regularly with fresh or saltwater. Use a mop or soft-bristle brush to wipe away tough dirt, but avoid high-pressure nozzles or washers that damage the wood’s top layer.

How often should I deep-clean my teak deck? Many boat owners will want to undertake a deeper clean one to four times a year (depending on location and wear).

• Most experts advise you to steer clear of two-step cleaning solutions and choose single-part wood cleansers and soaps to limit corrosion and maximize your teak deck’s longevity.
• If a single-part cleaner is not available, use a non abrasive, powdered dishwasher detergent (like Bon Ami or Calgon). Dilute 1/4 to 1/3rd cup of the detergent in 2.5 gallons of water before applying.
• With a mop or soft scrub brush, apply the single-part cleaner or powdered detergent solution to your deck. If using a scrub brush, use care to only scrub across the teak’s grain.
• For localized stains, put a drop or two of liquid dish detergent (like Joy) on a terry cloth and rub it into the stain gently. Give the area a thorough rinse before checking your fully clean teak.

Combating Mildew

When mildew inevitably appears on the grain of your teak, softly scrub the spot with a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and water.

Resisting the urge to use bleach will benefit your deck in the long run. However, if the urge proves too strong, mix 1 cup of bleach in 1/2 bucket of water and apply it to the areas in need. Thoroughly rinse the solution away before the decks dry.

Oiling Teak

Boat owners striving to maintain the warm gold of fresh-cut teak will often reach for teak oils (usually tung or linseed) to bring out their wood’s young shine.

Teak oil “feeds” the wood, brightening its grain patterns and intensifying its rich colors. Unfortunately, oiling teak is more about aesthetics than maintenance.

Teak oils do not protect the wood, and only bring back that young color for a month or two at a time. Some experts even claim that these oils catch and hold dirt, leading to blotchy, stained wood over time.

Sealing Teak

Teak sealers are a popular method of care among boat owners looking to achieve their teak’s natural look while extending their deck’s durability.

Rather than “feeding” the wood, sealers block against moisture and dirt while sealing in its natural oils and resins.

A good teak sealer only requires reapplication once a year, making it a more practical option for most boat owners with teak decking.

UNDERTAKING (AND AVOIDING) A MAJOR REFRESH OF YOUR TEAK

When teak decking is properly cared for throughout the year, boat owners can avoid a major refresh or teak restoration project.

However, all boat owners should keep a careful eye on their deck’s caulking and be quick to repair loose strips or gaps that allow water to quickly and destructively penetrate the teak.

Do not trust what you see at first glance. To fully check your boat deck for needed repairs, wet the deck fully and make note of any area that stays wet longer than the surrounding teak. These lingering wet patches give clues to where caulk may need to be removed and reapplied.

In addition to proper cleaning, properly caring for your teak decks means sanding the deck every 12-18 months. (Regular cleaning will minimize the need for regular sanding, and sanding is not recommended for any boats less than a year old.)

Luckily, you can avoid a major restoration project and enjoy the timeless style of your teak decking for decades by putting a little time into cleaning and care now.

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How to Clean and Restore Teak Wood

Does your dirty gray outdoor teak furniture look like it should go in the fire pit, not around it? How about your dull, weathered teak boat deck – does it look like it belongs on The Flying Dutchman? Or make you want to walk the deck, swearing at the wind because you don’t know how to bring your teak back from the brink?

Well you can stop swearing and start scrubbing because teak wood care is easy with the right products and a little elbow grease.

In this post, we’ll show you how to make your teak go from gray, stained, moldy, slimy, mildewy, and dingy to golden, bright, and beautiful in a few easy steps that include cleaning, brightening, and finishing (or leaving bare). Finishing can include applying some type of teak wood oil, teak sealer, varnish , or synthetic finish, depending on the look you want.

How to Clean and Brighten Teak Wood Without Damaging It

For fast, easy, amazing results, use a 2-part teak cleaner that’s safe for use on teak wood. This type of product includes a cleaner (Part A) and a brightener (Part B). The cleaner component removes dirt, grime, grease, and stains, while the brightener neutralizes the cleaner and returns teak to its natural golden tone.

Before you start cleaning your teak, put on some disposable gloves and wear protection for your face, eyes and skin. You’ll also want to protect any surrounding surfaces that might be damaged by the teak cleaner by masking or removing any painted parts or aluminum parts that are on or near the teak.

Step 1: How to Clean Teak Wood

Start by soaking the teak with fresh water.

Use a sponge to apply Part A, then use a soft bristle brush or a Scotch-Brite® pad to scrub lightly across the grain – not with the grain. If you scrub with the grain, you’re pushing the dirt and grime down deeper, and you can actually do damage because you’re removing more of the wood grain.

As you scrub, you’ll notice the froth turning a dark brown color as the dirt and grime comes out. Rinse the surface with fresh water.

Step 2: How to Brighten Teak Wood

Use a soft bristle brush to apply Part B, and scrub lightly across the grain. As you scrub, you’ll notice the teak begin to lighten in color.

Rinse thoroughly with fresh water to remove all residue from Part B. Remember to scrub while rinsing to help remove the brightener completely. Here’s a little teak table top that was dirty and stained – see how different it looks after cleaning!

After cleaning your teak, always wait at least a few days for the teak to dry completely to a light, golden color. You may notice that as the water evaporates, the wood grain gets raised a little. You’ll want to sand lightly – in the direction of the wood grain – until the surface is smooth, before applying a teak treatment.

How to Protect Teak Wood from Sun, Salt, Mold, Mildew, Dirt and Stains

So what do you do now that your teak is bright and beautiful again? You can either leave it as is, or apply some type of teak oil, teak sealer, varnish, or synthetic wood finish product. The choice is yours. Certain teak items like boat swim platforms don’t really need to be coated with anything because they spend most of their time under water, though an application of teak oil will offer a degree of protection.

The important thing to note here is that some finishes will last longer, require less maintenance, and provide better protection than others. One thing’s for sure, if you do nothing, the teak will become silvery gray and weathered a lot sooner.

Teak Wood Oil

What is teak oil , anyway? It’s a blend of oils and solvents designed to replenish teak’s natural oils. A teak oil finish prevents wood from drying out, restores its original color, and provides an attractive matte finish.

Teak Wood Sealer

Teak sealer is used to seal in teak’s natural oils, prevent wood from drying out, and preserve the beguiling golden hue associated with teak. In addition to sealing in the natural oils, teak sealer also helps to repel dirt and stains, and prevent mold and mildew

When to Use Teak Oil or Teak Sealer

We recommend using marine teak oil for initial rejuvenation and maintenance coats. If the teak wood is not in great condition and needs better oil penetration initially, and some degree of mildew protection, apply teak sealer. Later on, you can use teak oil for maintenance coats. It’s not necessary to apply teak oil then follow with an application of teak sealer.

Advantages of Using Teak Oil and Teak Sealer

• Creates the most natural-looking results
• Fast and easy to apply
• Relatively inexpensive compared to varnish
• These finishes do not become slippery when wet, so they are ideal to use on teak swim platforms, teak decking, teak handrails

The downside of teak oils and teak sealers is that they require regular maintenance. And compared to varnish and synthetic wood finishes, teak oils and sealers don’t last as long, or provide as much protection from the elements. Maintenance coats are a must, and depending on sun exposure, climate, and the condition of the wood, you may need to apply maintenance coats monthly, twice a year, or annually.

Another type of natural finish for teak that’s worth mentioning is tung oil . It adds waterproofing properties, creates a low-sheen, hand-rubbed finish that won’t mildew or turn yellow, and it protects against staining. Here’s more information about the differences between teak oil vs. tung oil .

Synthetic Marine Wood Finish

For a finish that offers beauty, UV protection and moisture resistance similar to varnish, but is less expensive and easier to apply, try a synthetic marine wood finish . These products form a protective coating and come in a variety of finishes, including a natural teak wood finish, a gloss finish, and a satin finish.

Advantages of Using a Synthetic Marine Wood Finish on Teak Wood

• Faster and easier to apply, and more affordable than varnish
• Forms a protective coating and has UV protection similar to varnish
• Easier to repair than varnish
• More durable than teak oil and teak sealer
• Maintenance coats are applied annually – much less frequently than teak oil or teak sealer
• Not just for boats, synthetic wood finish products are great for outdoor teak furniture

Synthetic wood finishes look great on all types of wood, not just teak. Here’s an example of how beautiful TotalBoat Marine Wood Finish looks on a refinished porch floor.

There’s nothing quite like varnish to highlight the wood grain, protect against UV and moisture damage, and maintain the natural golden color of teak wood. But that beauty and protection take more time, effort, and money than teak oil, teak sealer, or synthetic wood finishes.

Varnish protects by forming a coating over the teak that shields it from the elements. This coating leaves a durable finish that comes in a variety of options, including high gloss varnish , rubbed effect varnish, matte varnish , and satin varnish .

Some traditional varnish products require thinning the initial coats, sanding between coats and applying multiple coats, while more modern varnish products feature rapid recoating , no sanding between coats, and up to 5 coats in 1 day! There are also water-based varnish products that dry fast to a durable finish, have no harsh odors, and are easy to clean up with soap and water.

Advantages of Using Varnish on Teak Wood

• Best at showcasing the wood grain
• Achieves distinctness of image (DOI), or gloss
• Helps restore and retain teak’s natural color and beauty
• Provides the best UV protection and moisture resistance
• Offers exceptional resistance to stains, oils, grease, and dirt

To read more about sealing teak and other woods with varnish, teak oil, teak sealer, and marine wood finish products, take a look at our TotalBoat Varnishing How To Guide . If you have any questions about teak care or teak finishing, please call our Tech Support Team at (800) 497-0010.

Marine Wood Finish

2-Part Teak Wood Cleaner and Brightening System

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How to Assess Teak Decking Quality

Teak decking quality is dependent on regular inspection and maintenance. To assist boat owners, Teakdecking Systems offers these expert tips on assessing a boat’s  teak  decking quality. Years of enjoyment can be added to this beautiful and  valuable investment  with proper care.

Teak Decking on Chris Craft Boat

Teak Thickness

In the design of many vintage vessels, thick teak boards were fastened directly to the frames which added structural soundness to the entire vessel. Today, modern construction methods have made the role of  teak  as a structural component uncommon.

Now, teak is primarily a covering to the boat’s structural subdeck. New teak decks are typically only 10 to 20 mm (3/8 to 3/4”) thick. Therefore, less wood is needed for decking.

Chris Craft Swim Platform shows Teak Thickness

A teak deck typically wears away at an approximate rate of 0.5 to 1 mm of thickness per year in service. This wear rate can vary based on the following:

• Wood quality and grain orientation
• UV degradation
• Atmospheric conditions
• Quality of deck assembly and installation
• MOST IMPORTANT – Quality of maintenance

When applying the typical 0.5 to 1mm rate of loss to a deck that is initially 10-20 mm thick, the expected useful service life will be 10 to 20 years. However, this range depends on the previously mentioned wear factors.

Perfect maintenance

will add years of life to teak decking.

Quality teak decking will be assembled with vertical grain planks, which are planks with the grain running less than 45° of vertical when viewing the end of the plank.

Examine the annual growth rings have a pattern which alternates as light and dark (soft or hard wood). The widths of these teak rings are determined by the growing season. For deck use, this grain pattern should be “tight” or closely spaced. This means there is less soft wood.

Teak decking with tight vertical grain boards wear much better than those with wide grain or flat-sawn planks. So, a quality teak deck built with planks containing a tighter grain pattern (i.e., less soft wood) will have increased longevity.

Cross section view of teak panel; quarter sawn wood grain

Wood Condition

When the surface of a teak deck is badly weathered or ridged, it holds moisture and surface contaminants. This prevents proper cleaning and maintenance of the deck. A teak deck in this condition can be corrected by lightly sanding the deck to remove the ridges (if there is still enough teak thickness to make it worthwhile). As a reminder, check the depth of caulk seams and the thickness of the teak before starting.

NOTE: Periodic light sanding will keep the deck surface relatively smooth and easy to clean.

Badly weathered teak with ridges; decking is nearly unrepairable

• The use of “two-part” or acid cleaners is not recommended. They can damage the teak and caulk seams.
• Never use a pressure washer or stiff bristle brush for cleaning teak. These tools can remove the soft grain in the teak and shorten the life of the deck.

Teak “bungs” or plugs cover the deck fasteners. If any bungs are missing look into the bung hole(s) to see how far below the surface the screw head is located. This an indicator of how much the teak has worn. 

If an isolated bung is missing on a deck that is in good shape but old and thinner, it is possible to replace the bung. (Remove the screw, bore the bung hole deeper for more bonding surface, leave the screw out for more clearance, seal the screw hole, and then replace the bung.)

In some cases, the teak is fastened to the boat with screws from underneath the deck. Unfortunately, as the teak surface wears, the sharp points of the screws are exposed. Once exposed, the screw tips will damage bare feet, shoes and clothing, sails and rigging. It is not possible to grind the screw points without damaging the surrounding teak. In this case, the only fix is to remove and replace the teak deck.

Bungs on weathered teak decking

Teak is golden brown when first milled. Then, it naturally develops a silvery patina. This color is natural and does not mean the condition is bad.

Many boat owners like the silver patina. However, those who do not like the color will sand the teak deck to restore it to the original golden brown color. After sanding, the teak will be like new. Frequent sanding accelerates the reduction in thickness and decreases the deck’s life .

A healthy teak deck has a light silver color and clean wood. If the deck is gray, the deck needs to be cleaned with a “one-part” non-acid teak cleaner.

Sealing Teak

Since teak is an organic material it weathers over time. Oxidation causes the silver patina. This is a natural process and does not hurt the teak. However, some teak deck owners attempt to retard this process by applying various sealers or oils.

Sealing is minimally effective in the short term. Further, it increases maintenance, traps contaminants, and possibly promotes mildew growth in wet climates. This will necessitate harsh cleaning or sanding to eliminate build-up and require subsequent sealing.  Most boat owners prefer to leave teak unfinished.

Caulk Seams

Read more about inspecting seams in this Teakdecking Systems article:  How to Inspect Teak Deck Caulking and Seams

For questions about teak decking quality or any topic related to teak decking,  contact the experts  at Teakdecking Systems.

941-756-0600

[email protected]

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Maintaining Teak Decks

08/06/2011 By Professional Boat Care

The maintenance of teak decks is one topic sure to start a debate on the dock! It seems everyone has an opinion on what is best and if you jump on the internet and start searching ‘teak maintenance’ you will see what I mean! The differences of opinion  usually centres around whether teak should be left alone and allowed to ‘grey off’ naturally, versus the use of oils, sealers and acid based cleaners.

However one thing I think we can all agree upon is, nothing looks and feels as good under foot as a teak deck!

In order to understand how to care for your teak deck, it is important to know something about the wood itself. Teak is a very dense hardwood that has an extremely high oil and wax content. These traits are what makes teak the ideal decking material.

The wood is naturally resistant to rot or degradation caused by fungal decay. The truth is, teak does not require oils or sealers and in theory will survive well with virtually no maintenance.

Whilst the idea of leaving a teak deck to its own devises is good in theory, the truth is, most of our boats aren’t used often enough and so dirt and too much fresh water will eventually take their toll. After all the recent rain I have seen a lot of mould and even green moss on many boats around the marina. Without regular use the dirt really starts to build up and so regular cleaning is important.

In my opinion drab looking teak really lets the appearance of a boat down and I have heard many brokers and buyers alike confirm this. So for those who want to keep their teak looking its best there are a couple basic rules that should be followed.

Rule 1 – Never use a high pressure hose to clean teak decks. As with most timbers, teak is made up of hard and soft grains. A high pressure hose will very quickly blast the soft grain out leaving the hard grain behind and you end up with a corduroy texture to the surface. This will eventually require sanding to level the surface again, seriously reducing the lifespan of your teak.

Rule 2 – Never scrub your teak with a hard bristle brush. Just like a water jet it will rub out the soft grain. I use a soft bristle brush or a soft scour pad attachment.  When brooming always try and go across the grain.

So how do you keep them looking good?

In an ideal world, good covers will help slow down the weathering effects but this isn’t always practical. So eventually they will start to look drab from the effects of weathering. It’s not only the elements that take their toll on teak. They suffer from too much fun also! I see many decks with oily stains from dropped nibbles and red wine. These stains often end up mouldy if left alone.

We are spoilt for choice when it comes to teak cleaners and brighteners. Chandlery stores stock everything from soft detergent cleaners to single and two pack acid based cleaners. I think I have tried all of them by now and I’m amazed at how some will out perform others.

Using acid based products on a boat can be a nerve racking business. If you decide to use these products always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Even then things can still go wrong! One common pitfall is not realising acid based cleaners will leave bleached streak marks in your antifoul along the waterline. I have also seen Sikaflex seams on freshly sanded decks turn soft and tacky after reacting to the acid based cleaners. So be careful and consult a professional for more advice.

Tips to keep teak looking good

• If possible, cover decks as much as possible to keep the sun and rain off
• Teak prefers salt water to fresh. I have been told the salt helps maintain the moisture and helps deter mould growth
• Wash them down regularly with the saltwater deck hose.
• Try to avoid oily foods and red wine making contact with the timber – this is a big ask for some of our members!
• When using the acid based cleaners don’t over do it. A lot of my clients have me treat their decks prior to a special occasion such as a function onboard, a regatta, for sale inspections or before they go cruising.  Half a dozen treatments a year would be at the higher end.

Happy and safe boating.

Peter Jenyns is a long time member of RQ and well known within the boating community having spent a lifetime on and around boats. He is an accomplished yachtsman and fisherman and has worked as a Master Class V Captain. He now operates Professional Boat Care which specialises in boat detailing and maintenance. If you have any questions feel free to call him on 0409 930 888

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Teak Deck Caulks Rated for Durability and Resistance to Chemicals

Teakdecking systems teak caulk stands the test of time—and multiple chemical baths..

In June 2006, we began our test of seven caulks advertised for use in teak-deck seams. The goal was to evaluate each product on the four basic qualities anyone choosing a teak-deck caulk would want: ease of application, adhesion, durability, and resistance to chemicals.

The September 2006 issue reported on each product’s ease of application, and in the March 2007 issue, Practical Sailor rated the caulks on pliability, durability, and adhesion. In this update, we take a look at long-term durability and how each caulk reacts to multiple chemicals. Down the road, we’ll test the products’ strengths to failures and will rate the caulks’ overall performances, based on all of the previous tests.

What We Tested

Our caulk test group is a mix of polysulfide, polyether, silyl modified polyme

r (SMP), and silicone-based products, as well as both one- and two-part products that include three BoatLIFE caulks, Bostik/Simson Marine Special Range Deck Caulk Plus, MARITIME Teak Deck Caulk, Teakdecking Systems (TDS) SIS 440 Teak Deck Caulking, and West Marine’s Multi Caulk Sealant.

Noticeably absent are products from 3M and SIKA, both well known companies in the marine caulking arena that either do not have a product recommended for use on teak decks, or (in the case of SIKA) have one, but do not market it in the United States.

How We Tested

One of our primary goals was to see how well each caulk could hold up not only to the torture of ultraviolet (UV) rays, but to the chemicals that teak decks are likely to be exposed to during their lifetime. So, we applied a 4-inch bead of each test caulk to 16 different teak panels (8 inches by 4 inches), and then doused them regularly with the chemicals.

Thirteen of the panels were exposed to a single chemical; one was alternately exposed to each chemical; and another (our control panel) was exposed to no chemicals. Yet another—coated with a wood finish—was dropped from the test when it was obvious no chemicals were getting through the finish.

After a two-week curing period, all test panels were mounted outside, fully exposed to the weather, and given the initial chemical dose. Testers then applied the chemicals once a month for the following two years. The panels and each caulk bead were thoroughly saturated each time.

The chemical lineup included gasoline, diesel, motor oil, ammonia, household bleach, acetone, Star brite Teak brightener (oxalic acid), WD-40, brush cleaner, Fantastic multi-purpose cleaner, Murphy’s Oil soap, Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK), and a heavy-duty bilge cleaner from West Marine. The caulks seemed to have the hardest time with acetone and MEK.

Our test was admittedly harsh—it’s doubtful any teak deck has been tortured to the extent our test panels were. But it was intended to determine which caulks held up the best to chemicals.

A number of factors come into play when deciding just what makes a teak-deck caulk the easiest to apply. Everything else being equal (product quality, durability, etc.), ease of application to us means a quick curing, one-part caulk requiring no special cleaners or primers (both of which can add significantly to the job in terms of money and time). Spending $18 for a 6-ounce can of seam primer plus the additional step required to prime each seam—and waiting for the primer to dry before caulking—are good examples of things that impact application ratings.

Similarly, a caulk that can be sanded after 24 hours is preferable. We also consider one-part caulks to be less of a potential headache than two-part caulks. Even though you follow the directions for mixing to the letter, there’s always that nagging worry it won’t cure properly, or—horror of horrors—you somehow manage to tip over the can during mixing. (You were mixing it on the dock and not the deck, right?) One-part caulks come pre-mixed in nice, safe tubes or sausages, helping us protect ourselves from such self-inflicted woes.

For this evaluation, testers scratched, poked, and probed each caulk bead with their fingernails, and then ranked each on its pliability, texture, and overall physical condition for each chemical panel. A rating of Excellent indicates the caulk was still firm, supple, and in excellent condition. A rating of Fair indicates that the product was still in decent shape, but that testers were able make permanent indentions in the caulk with a thumb nail and were able to remove some of it by scratching along the length of the bead. A rating of Poor indicates that large chunks of the caulk were easily removed with a thumb nail and that overall, the caulk’s condition was clearly inferior.

What We Found

During our first caulk checkup (March 2007 issue), which was just eight months into our long-term evaluation, testers found that each of the seven products was holding its own with no signs of deterioration or damage. At that time, the softest caulk (West Marine Multi-Caulk) had the resilience of a neoprene wetsuit, while the hardest caulk (BoatLIFE Life Caulk) was slightly firmer than a pencil eraser.

However, now—two years after the application—testers found some eye-opening differences.

BoatLIFE Life-Caulk

Life-Caulk is a one-part, polysulfide-based rubber compound advertised for use above and below the waterline on fiberglass, wood, metal, and glass. It’s not recommended for use on plastics.

It was in the middle of the pack in our chemical test, earning good ratings on most panels, but only fair on the acetone, MEK, and WD-40 panels. The Life-Caulk beads on those panels hardened considerably, lost some adhesion, and were dry to the point that chunks of caulk were easily scratched off.

Bottom line: At $19, Life-Caulk Type P was one of the more expensive caulks tested. As for chemical resistance and longevity, Life-Caulk rated Fair overall and was not at the head of the class after two years.

BoatLIFE Teak Deck Sealant

Teak Deck Sealant is a one-part, silicone-based caulk advertised as resistant to teak cleaners, teak oils, gasoline, and diesel fuel. The Teak Deck Sealant test beads appeared in good shape, but all of them—including the control—were easily damaged with a tester’s thumb nail. Most of them maintained their elasticity, however, the bead on the All Chemicals panel lost adhesion, and testers were able to scratch chunks off the MEK victim with little effort.

Bottom line: BoatLIFE Teak Deck Sealant received a Poor in this durability test.

BoatLIFE Life-Caulk Type P

This product is a pourable, two-part polysulfide deck and hull seam compound advertised as resistant to teak cleaners, oils, fumes, gasoline, and diesel.

Testers found that the Life-Caulk Type P was holding up well after two years, rating Good on most chemical panels. The acetone bath did the most damage, however, the control panel bead still looked good—supple and not dried out like the BoatLIFE Deck Sealant.

Bottom line: The only two-part caulk tested, Life-Caulk Type P costs $68/qt and requires no special seam primers. It rated Fair overall in our chemical resistance/durability test. Performance-wise, it’s comparable to BoatLIFE Life-Caulk.

Bostik / Simson MSR Deck Caulk Plus

MSR Deck Caulk Plus is a one-part, silyl-modified, polymer-based caulk. According to the manufacturer, it is permanently elastic between -40°C to 100°C, and is extremely resistant to UV, temperature extremes, cleaners, and exposure to fresh and salt water. Our test beads of the MSR Deck Caulk Plus are still in excellent condition, maintaining pliability and adhesion.

Bottom line: MSR Deck Caulk Plus lives up to its claims and is impressive even after two years of chemical baths. It’s one of our three top picks so far. MSR’s downside is the need to prime each seam, and the cost of the special seam cleaner ($12 a pint) and primer ($40 a pint).

MARITIME Teak Deck Caulk

MARITIME Teak Deck Caulk is a one-part, “neutral curing, silicone adhesive sealant specially formulated for caulking teak decks” with “excellent temperature stability and resistance to chemicals and ultraviolet rays.”

Another top performer, the MARITIME test samples are still pliable and strong. All but one test bead received top ratings—the one that was doused with ammonia—and it still received a Good rating.

Bottom line: MARITIME Teak Deck Caulk is rated Excellent and is included in our top three picks.

Teakdecking Systems SIS 440

According to TDS’s literature, SIS 440 is a one-part, paste-like oxime cure system that forms a tough, flexible rubber compound; it does not sag during cure, and when cured, it has excellent temperature stability and chemical resistance. SIS 440 held up admirably to the onslaught of chemicals and cleaners. Testers gave it across-the-board Excellent ratings as it maintained adhesion and pliability without drying out or crumbling.

Bottom line: The TDS product showed Excellent chemical resistance and shows long-term durability at the two-year mark.

West Marine Multi-Caulk

Multi-Caulk Sealant is a polyether-based caulk billed as a versatile, waterproof sealant for use in teak-deck seams, bedding fittings, etc. It can be used above and below the waterline; with fiberglass, wood, glass, and metal; and claims to be unaffected by teak cleaners and brighteners, and oils and fuel.

Multi-Caulk received a mix of ratings, Good to Poor, in the chemical resistance test and had a particularly hard time with motor oil, MEK, Murphy’s oil, ammonia, and the Fantastic. Although the Multi-Caulk beads were still somewhat pliable, many were easily scratched by our tester’s thumbnail. The control panel Multi Caulk, with no chemical interaction, was rated Good.

Bottom line: The West Marine Multi-Caulk performed in the middle of the pack in this test.

Although the challenges of evaluating in two years a product that should last seven to 10 years are readily apparent, we were still able to make some hard and fast conclusions about the caulks and whether we would or would not use them on our own teak seams, particularly considering the time and effort involved in the re-caulking process.

Two silyl-modified polymers, Teakdecking Systems and Bostik/Simson MSR Deck Caulk Plus, along with the silicone-based MARITIME, are our top picks for chemical resistance and durability at two years. We gave the TDS caulk the edge due to its slightly better performance in chemical testing, and its better pricing and availability.

• Practical Sailor Value Guide: Teak Caulks at 2 Years

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